Shortchevy c1500 Sport build

[shortchevy]

well I took a leaf out and I love how it sits but I have to much wrap... so Im going to the junkyard and grab another load leaf and put it in where I took the one out... (idea credit to MOBS) it'll most likely be a while till I drive the truck though. I broke my finger at work today and the honda with the auto trans is a whole hell of a lot easier to drive than my truck, so im gonna rock that for a week or two...

 

[MOBS]

tie rods, inner-fenders, and 1" lowering shackles? whats the thought of a 6/7 on my Sled?

Ehhh, I think a 2" shackle and 2" hanger should be in the above statement also

Hey, which leaf did you remove from the pack?

 

[shortchevy]

Ehhh, I think a 2" shackle and 2" hanger should be in the above statement also

Hey, which leaf did you remove from the pack?

the second one... like you told me pages ago...

 

[shortchevy]

that right MOBS??


I did a little shopping today, bought no-notch tie rods and an 8" notch. Saturday im going to the junkyard to grab a pair of load leafs and MAYBE a chunk of bedfloor for covering the notch... Im really excited to see some major steps forward on my project here. cant wait to do the notch! im ready to whip out the welder!

 

[MOBS]

Yeah, I was making sure ya took out the 2nd. You got bad axle wrap removing it? Another thing you can do if you haven't flipped your axle, it tends to lower the rear a lil, but it almost kills axle wrap altogether. Get a stock load leaf for your truck, mount it upside down to the top of your leaf pack(on top of the upper leaf). Depending on if the load you get is curved like a U or a rainbow, ya want it to be mounted so the ends of leaf touch the top of the upper leaf right before middle of load leaf touches. This pre-loads the leaf pack in the lowering position and keeps any axle wrap(looseness) under control.

Only other thing I can think of is to add a trac-bar to the front bottom of leafs(bolts to where leafs attach to each other and has a square tube or solid bar that extends forward and presses against bottom of leaf pack)

 

[DRAGGIN95]

that right MOBS??


I did a little shopping today, bought no-notch tie rods and an 8" notch. Saturday im going to the junkyard to grab a pair of load leafs and MAYBE a chunk of bedfloor for covering the notch... Im really excited to see some major steps forward on my project here. cant wait to do the notch! im ready to whip out the welder!

Looking forward to pic's of progress!

 

[shortchevy]

Yeah, I was making sure ya took out the 2nd. You got bad axle wrap removing it? Another thing you can do if you haven't flipped your axle, it tends to lower the rear a lil, but it almost kills axle wrap altogether. Get a stock load leaf for your truck, mount it upside down to the top of your leaf pack(on top of the upper leaf). Depending on if the load you get is curved like a U or a rainbow, ya want it to be mounted so the ends of leaf touch the top of the upper leaf right before middle of load leaf touches. This pre-loads the leaf pack in the lowering position and keeps any axle wrap(looseness) under control.

Only other thing I can think of is to add a trac-bar to the front bottom of leafs(bolts to where leafs attach to each other and has a square tube or solid bar that extends forward and presses against bottom of leaf pack)

Ok I think I misread the axle wrap... when I accelerate quickly I get a bounce... I think my shocks are laid down to much and not doing there thing... (Axle is on top of leafs) SOOO... when I throw my notch in Ill relocate the upper shock mounts... today I cut the rear fender lips off. YAY! I think Im gonna throw a trac-bar in.... well see!

 

[MOBS]

Oh yeah, wheel hop, I get that on gravel in reverse really bad, I also need to relocate upper shock mounts. Been thinking lately about going with staggered mounts and using ball/socket style mounts. From the rear of vehicle, the shocks will look like this: / \ but they will still keep the stock "locations"(one shock in front of axle, other in rear). The lower shock mounts will attach to spring "perch"(lower spring plate from a toyota), upper shock mounts will be attached to the notch(also toyota shock mounts). When staggered, you get more suspension flex, and you don't have to run short throw shocks. Have you looked at the progressive bump stops with the springs made into them?

 

[shortchevy]

Oh yeah, wheel hop, I get that on gravel in reverse really bad, I also need to relocate upper shock mounts. Been thinking lately about going with staggered mounts and using ball/socket style mounts. From the rear of vehicle, the shocks will look like this: / \ but they will still keep the stock "locations"(one shock in front of axle, other in rear). The lower shock mounts will attach to spring "perch"(lower spring plate from a toyota), upper shock mounts will be attached to the notch(also toyota shock mounts). When staggered, you get more suspension flex, and you don't have to run short throw shocks. Have you looked at the progressive bump stops with the springs made into them?

so will putting in another load leaf solve my hop?

 

[stroker52]

Oh yeah, wheel hop, I get that on gravel in reverse really bad, I also need to relocate upper shock mounts. Been thinking lately about going with staggered mounts and using ball/socket style mounts. From the rear of vehicle, the shocks will look like this: / \ but they will still keep the stock "locations"(one shock in front of axle, other in rear). The lower shock mounts will attach to spring "perch"(lower spring plate from a toyota), upper shock mounts will be attached to the notch(also toyota shock mounts). When staggered, you get more suspension flex, and you don't have to run short throw shocks. Have you looked at the progressive bump stops with the springs made into them?

like this.....

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