MOBS
The Mad Scientist
Yep, just like that.
Wheel hop is caused by not having working shocks, or having none at all. A shock keeps your wheels planted during take off, all vehicles have some wheel hop, even if not noticeable(too small to realize/tire doesn't leave ground), wheel hop is caused because tire stretches then tries to contract back, when the rubber contracts, it pulls the tread towards the rim, causing loss of weight on the ground. Without shocks, the suspension flexes too quickly allowing axle to go towards frame, combined with loss of traction caused by tire flex, the wheels "jump" up. It's kind of difficult to explain exactly how it works, but it usually means your shocks aren't doing their job. It's very noticeable when starting up a hill made of concrete sections, the tires will hop at every bump or inconsistency(like where the sections join). It's also noticeable if you go to take off at an intersection that has some loose gravel on top of the asphalt or concrete roadway. If keeping stock locations, then the lower you go, the tighter the shocks ya gotta run, because the more horizontal the shock become, the more leverage your axle has over it, so the more the shock has to work to keep your axle under control. One reason why lift/lowering blocks aren't recommended, the block is giving the axle more leverage over the springs, which makes axle wrap more noticeable. If you keep the stock shock locations, get some shocks that are harder riding. To dial it in, will require alot of work and alot of trips to the auto parts store to exchange shocks till you get the ride and control you're looking for.
If you're not getting actual axle wrap, I wouldn't add another load leaf in. I would get some shocks that can better control your wheel hop.
Wheel hop is caused by not having working shocks, or having none at all. A shock keeps your wheels planted during take off, all vehicles have some wheel hop, even if not noticeable(too small to realize/tire doesn't leave ground), wheel hop is caused because tire stretches then tries to contract back, when the rubber contracts, it pulls the tread towards the rim, causing loss of weight on the ground. Without shocks, the suspension flexes too quickly allowing axle to go towards frame, combined with loss of traction caused by tire flex, the wheels "jump" up. It's kind of difficult to explain exactly how it works, but it usually means your shocks aren't doing their job. It's very noticeable when starting up a hill made of concrete sections, the tires will hop at every bump or inconsistency(like where the sections join). It's also noticeable if you go to take off at an intersection that has some loose gravel on top of the asphalt or concrete roadway. If keeping stock locations, then the lower you go, the tighter the shocks ya gotta run, because the more horizontal the shock become, the more leverage your axle has over it, so the more the shock has to work to keep your axle under control. One reason why lift/lowering blocks aren't recommended, the block is giving the axle more leverage over the springs, which makes axle wrap more noticeable. If you keep the stock shock locations, get some shocks that are harder riding. To dial it in, will require alot of work and alot of trips to the auto parts store to exchange shocks till you get the ride and control you're looking for.
If you're not getting actual axle wrap, I wouldn't add another load leaf in. I would get some shocks that can better control your wheel hop.
