Rear tires locking

[White96k2500]

Mine had a sticking emergency brake cable causing problems. Not the exact same symtoms but similar.

I have been wondering if this was the problem. How can you check to see if it’s sticking?

 

[stutaeng]

Full float C/K 2500 only came with BBC/TD, along with hydroboost. SBC C/K 2500 had Semifloat 14 bolt and vacuum brakes.

OP, why don't you lift your truck from the differential and try to turn the wheel by hand? Do the same for the fronts.

I have no idea, i really wish it was the full floater. I’m probably gonna try to get my hands on one and swap it in before too long. Also the breaks only locked that one time and never stopped, normally it always stops it might’ve just been the rain that day.

 

[White96k2500]

Full float C/K 2500 only came with BBC/TD, along with hydroboost. SBC C/K 2500 had Semifloat 14 bolt and vacuum brakes.

OP, why don't you lift your truck from the differential and try to turn the wheel by hand? Do the same for the fronts.

I will try either when i get home from work tomorrow or this weekend. I just don’t understand it really only does it when it’s raining.

 

[alpinecrick]

So you have never pulled the rear drums to see if it's metal on metal?

 

[Hipster]

So you have never pulled the rear drums to see if it's metal on metal?

Pretty common on this site to discuss fixing a truck for days but never go out and put a floor jack under it or climb under to actually find out what's going on. A lot of these guys drive them until crap starts falling off going down the highway. LOL

 

[Gibson]

I just don’t understand it really only does it when it’s raining.

I know exactly where you're coming from on that.
Here in the PNW it rains much more than just about anywhere else, and I've experienced that situation on many occasions, with my '97 K2500 Sub,, especially stopping at the end of my long dirt driveway when leaving in the morning.
So, a friend of mine has been a service manager at a Chey dealer for years, and I discussed it with him.
Here's what happens; After driving awhile, the brakes are warm/hot, and dry.
Then, you park and as the brakes cool-down the moisture in the wet air quickly condenses on the drum and shoe surfaces and forms a very thin layer of rust on the bare metal.
Then, the next time you go to use the brakes it's as though the brake shoes, instead of rubbing on clean metal, are grabbing onto a rough surface, and they lock, or try too, and they act that way until they warm-up and and that tiny layer of rust is cleaned/wiped off.
When the brakes are adjusted "just right" their needs to be a little drag so that after a fairly short distance the drums and shoes are clean and dry.
But yes, it can also be a sign of worn components,, no guarantees.

 

[Pinger]

Contaminated with fluid (brake fluid especially) will make a drum brake grabby. A weeping cylinder seal is all it takes.
(Not saying that that is the cause in this case, but I'd be opening them up for a look).

 

[HotrodZ06]

I have been wondering if this was the problem. How can you check to see if it’s sticking?

I pulled my drum to inspect to see if i screwed anything up, and saw the lever that connects to the cable was pulled a little even though my pedal was released checked the other side and it was sitting where it was supposed to. I pryed the lever back and it worked as it should until i set the e brake again. Replace the cable now works flawlessly.

 

[White96k2500]

I know exactly where you're coming from on that.
Here in the PNW it rains much more than just about anywhere else, and I've experienced that situation on many occasions, with my '97 K2500 Sub,, especially stopping at the end of my long dirt driveway when leaving in the morning.
So, a friend of mine has been a service manager at a Chey dealer for years, and I discussed it with him.
Here's what happens; After driving awhile, the brakes are warm/hot, and dry.
Then, you park and as the brakes cool-down the moisture in the wet air quickly condenses on the drum and shoe surfaces and forms a very thin layer of rust on the bare metal.
Then, the next time you go to use the brakes it's as though the brake shoes, instead of rubbing on clean metal, are grabbing onto a rough surface, and they lock, or try too, and they act that way until they warm-up and and that tiny layer of rust is cleaned/wiped off.
When the brakes are adjusted "just right" their needs to be a little drag so that after a fairly short distance the drums and shoes are clean and dry.
But yes, it can also be a sign of worn components,, no guarantees.

That’s exactly what happens, i will crack the drums open and inspect everything when i get a chance. My 83 year old grandmother is in hospice with pneumonia and not doing well. I do have one question though, I’ve never been inside of a drum before. Is there anything important i need to know?

 

[White96k2500]

Contaminated with fluid (brake fluid especially) will make a drum brake grabby. A weeping cylinder seal is all it takes.
(Not saying that that is the cause in this case, but I'd be opening them up for a look).

How can you check to see if its the cylinder?