Randomly shuts off, then restarts after it sits for an hour or 2?

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stutaeng

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The fuel pressure held the same as it always has. I typically check stuff like this while at home every month or two - that way I know what this trucks normal is.

The distributor is probably the original, with 234,000 miles on the truck. When I grab the rotor (with dist cap off, there doesn't seem to be any excessive play.
Can you remove the distributor for inspection? I believe they wear out down in the shaft and can cause some weird issues.

When the distributor on my 99 died, the engine shut off driving driving down the road. It wouldn't start, so I had to get towed. It was around 220k miles or so. My mechanic fixed it. I didn't know anything about mechanic stuff back then, just paid the guy and was happy to get back on the road, lol.
 

letitsnow

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Can you remove the distributor for inspection? I believe they wear out down in the shaft and can cause some weird issues.

When the distributor on my 99 died, the engine shut off driving driving down the road. It wouldn't start, so I had to get towed. It was around 220k miles or so. My mechanic fixed it. I didn't know anything about mechanic stuff back then, just paid the guy and was happy to get back on the road, lol.

I probably could. Its 20 degrees and snowing here right now though. And, with the stupid cmp retard thing I worry about putting it back in exactly the right spot...
 

SUBURBAN5

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That's a wierd issue. Almost like a fuel issue like mentioned. Just doesnt make sense why it starts after sitting a while..
 

letitsnow

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I just drove the truck to get propane, it ran like new. It is 20 degrees F out though.

I am going to replace the coil when it warms up outside. Years ago, any problem that showed up once things were hot, you automatically replaced the coil first.

Thanks for any help, thoughts, or suggestions folks. Keep them coming if you have time. I am bored, so I will be 'talking' too much on here most likely.
 

letitsnow

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Yeah, and a bad coil can take out the ICM. I see you changed it but, may want to keep that in mind.

I am going to order a new icm & crank sensor from advance auto. They are only about 5 miles away. I won't replace them right away, but will have them with as we travel then.

I will buy a new aluminum distributor from them if I have to, but would rather wait and get one from rock auto later.

I think that I will put this motor in my s10 soon, so the money (on parts) won't be wasted.

Now... I get to start shopping for the new 454, carb, hei, manual fuel pump motor build/swap... Then I will travel with a timing light, gas can, and confidence... :)
 

stutaeng

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I was wondering if you had an AutoZone on the campground or something, LOL.

I don't see on loading the parts cannon approach. If you have spark: the ICM and crankshaft position sensor can most certainly be ruled out. At least check for spark first, but need to check when it's not starting.
 

someotherguy

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When it won't start, fuel pressure and spark tests are imperative. Test them immediately before it "gets well" and starts again. Pretty sure this is already your plan at this point, but just reinforcing the importance of these tests. You could be looking at fuel or spark issues, OR, ignition switch issues; don't overlook this. The 95-up ignition switch can be flaky a lot more than one might expect.

I wouldn't be quick to suspect the distributor. Yours has high miles and is likely worn at the top bushing, but it shouldn't cause sudden stalls and intermittent/temporary failure to re-start. At most it should cause incorrect timing and a part throttle stumble or a "skip" while cruising. If you can't move the rotor side to side, try turning it backwards and forwards, while again trying to move it side to side. The top bushing wears, the gear wears, but I haven't seen a worn one yet that will cause your symptoms.

Richard
 
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