Quick Disconnect Fitting on Heater Inlet Hose

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idlook2

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I’m in the middle of changing my intake manifold gaskets now. The original fitting snapped off as soon as I put a wrench to it. Pictures below of the broken fitting and the tool inserted to get it out.

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John Hendrix

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In case anyone is interested...The threaded hole is a tapered pipe thread. I have only ever removed (1) of these that did not break when removed. The originals are terrible quality.

I have repaired many of these. I have never had great success with the extraction tool. Usually end up bolting the intake to the slotted bed of a Bridgeport mill and drilling out the old material and then chase the threads with tap.
 

SUBURBAN5

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In case anyone is interested...The threaded hole is a tapered pipe thread. I have only ever removed (1) of these that did not break when removed. The originals are terrible quality.

I have repaired many of these. I have never had great success with the extraction tool. Usually end up bolting the intake to the slotted bed of a Bridgeport mill and drilling out the old material and then chase the threads with tap.


Lol for ***** and giggles I wanted to throw in a brass nipple
 

jaywestfall

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Great stuff here! I've got the same gurgling, but I see air bubbles in the overflow reservoir. Going to replace the engine soon. Would this be a good time to replace all of these hoses with the new ones and the Dorman connectors?
 

454cid

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Great stuff here! I've got the same gurgling, but I see air bubbles in the overflow reservoir. Going to replace the engine soon. Would this be a good time to replace all of these hoses with the new ones and the Dorman connectors?

I'd replace hoses, but I doubt I'd use the Dorman quick connect.... should only be one, at least on my 454. I like my brass fittings. I replaced the heater core fitting (instead of the quick connect) with a GM part that is supposed to be for a thermostat by-pass, although I'm not sure on the application. It was something the local parts dept. guy looked up for me. It's not a factory part for my truck (could be for a Mk4 BBC) For the other two fittings, I've got one oem that is the style with no hex on it, and the other is an industrial part from Fastenal.

I'd only use the Dorman part if I wanted some combination of "factory look" and the restriction for the heater core.

The Dorman heater hose that would be the replacement to go along with that Dorman quick connect, is a lot more expensive than a piece of US made bulk hose, and it'll be from China.

If you check Summit, you should be able to find some other options, too. You just need the right NPT thread, and hose size.

Good clamps will also be needed if not using a quick connector, or if you're retrofitting new hose onto the OEM tube that goes into the quick connect.... the other option to the Dorman heater hose.
 

JayMB

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GM also made flow restricted NPT to 5/8" hose barb connectors. I have one on the thermostat bypass hose on my 1986 6.2L diesel but I imagine the big block gas engines are the same. It has maybe a 3/8" hole to let water through it. Much smaller than the 9/16" or so diamater hole in the brass one I put in to replace it. This was on the water bypass so I didn't imagine having more water moving around in the block to hurt anything. I know that many vehicles had intentional restrictions on the flow through the heater cores and the reason was often to stop the high speed water from eroding their insides and making them leak. My GMT400 still has the quick connect but I will probably swap to a brass one that is restricted like maybe a GM 155372 or similar (note that this claims to have a check valve inside it, I don't know if it goes the right direction for this application).
 

JayMB

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Good point. Sorry I have a van with a 5/8" heater core supply hose. Got it mixed up with my GMT400 Suburban. My '86 GM truck also has a 3/4" heater supply hose. The water crossover is 5/8".
 

Ehall8702

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In case anyone is interested...The threaded hole is a tapered pipe thread. I have only ever removed (1) of these that did not break when removed. The originals are terrible quality.

I have repaired many of these. I have never had great success with the extraction tool. Usually end up bolting the intake to the slotted bed of a Bridgeport mill and drilling out the old material and then chase the threads with tap.
We end up taking a chisel and basically breaking the pieces inward , pulling them out and then running tap in it. Real PITA
 
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