Please help ... is my 4L80E damaged?
- Thread starter seza
- Start date
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stutaeng
I'm Awesome
No need to drain the torque converter (TC), and in fact, when installing new it is recommended that you fill the TC with about 1.5 liters of ATF before seating it in. You probably already have some fluid in it.
I don't really know the capacity of the your transmission. There's a deep (on the later models) vs shallow pan. Best to do is to measure the fluid that you removed and add at least that much back. After you run the engine, shift though all the gears and keep adding fluid until the dipstick reads within the normal range after a full warm-up.
I don't really know the capacity of the your transmission. There's a deep (on the later models) vs shallow pan. Best to do is to measure the fluid that you removed and add at least that much back. After you run the engine, shift though all the gears and keep adding fluid until the dipstick reads within the normal range after a full warm-up.
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Hi all,
just to update you all ...
we failed in our bid to get this ol'girl back on the road
we put her back together, filled her with AFT, when cold she run like a dream much better than before
but as soon as the running temperature is reached she slows down like a dog with no pull in her at all:
I am not sure if the issue is trany related or T converter or both?
is there a way to test without pulling the thing out again?
thank you all for your help with this.
just to update you all ...
we failed in our bid to get this ol'girl back on the road
we put her back together, filled her with AFT, when cold she run like a dream much better than before
but as soon as the running temperature is reached she slows down like a dog with no pull in her at all:
I am not sure if the issue is trany related or T converter or both?
is there a way to test without pulling the thing out again?
thank you all for your help with this.
How do you know you are reaching a specific temp? Are you checking the fluid when it's cold? When you say it won't "pull", what exactly do you mean? Is the engine revving but the truck isn't moving? Is it not dropping into gear? Is there a smell? Smoke?
thanks for your quick reply - Syn,
the temp is from the engine temp gauge which around 190 to 200, which is the standard driving temp for me,
at that point it simply won't change gear and speed up even if I drop down from OD, forget about any upward incline she won't go up in any gear
yes there an acrid smell that I've only noticed today, no smoke.
is there way to tell if it is the trany or the T Converter?
the temp is from the engine temp gauge which around 190 to 200, which is the standard driving temp for me,
at that point it simply won't change gear and speed up even if I drop down from OD, forget about any upward incline she won't go up in any gear
yes there an acrid smell that I've only noticed today, no smoke.
is there way to tell if it is the trany or the T Converter?
Okay, that doesn't tell you what the trans temp is doing.
This indicates low fluid in my mind. How much fluid did you put in it? Did you fill up the converter before you put it in?at that point it simply won't change gear and speed up even if I drop down from OD, forget about any upward incline she won't go up in any gear
yes there an acrid smell that I've only noticed today, no smoke.
My guess is that it's low on fluid, and when the pump starts circulating there's not enough. Just a guess though.
Even if the converter clutch failed in the torque converter, the vehicle would still be under power, able to climb grades, etc. Fuel economy would suffer, but the vehicle would be driveable.
If the stator one-way clutch in the torque converter failed, you'd either have poor acceleration but normal highway operation, or normal acceleration but restricted high-speed operation. But the vehicle would still be under power, able to drive, etc.
Almost certainly NOT the torque converter. It'd be the very unusual failure that would cause your issues.
A shallow-pan filter installed on a deep pan could cause all sorts of slipping/no-power problems.
I would want a pressure gauge to tap into (multiple?) transmission pressures. That will all depend on how many pressure taps there are on the case. Some transmissions have several taps for the various pressures. But each tap costs seven cents, so GM eliminated some on later models. There should be at least ONE pressure test port.
I bought this before I found out it was made in China. Any similar gauge that reads to ~300 psi and has a flexible hose with an assortment of pipe-thread adapters to screw into the case would work.
www.amazon.com/OTC-Tools-5610-Trans-Eng-Tester/dp/B000R5G0DO/ref=sr_1_2?crid=23ESWRH3RKAZM
In addition to the pressure gauge/multiple taps, a person could "air-test" the case after removing the valve body. Apply compressed air using a rubber-tip blow gun to various passages in the trans case, listen for the sound of clutches applying (or leaking air excessively.) This can diagnose failed clutch seals, accumulator seals, servos, etc. although it doesn't provide info about the clutch/band material itself.
I expected more than one place to air-check clutches without disassembling the trans--but this video shows only one. Not sure that's accurate.
YOU NEED A SERVICE MANUAL and what in America would be basic transmission diagnostic tools. Select service manuals may be downloaded from this web site.
There's about a thousand Youtube videos for working on the 700/4L60/'60E and related transmissions. Would be worth your time to search 'em out.
If the stator one-way clutch in the torque converter failed, you'd either have poor acceleration but normal highway operation, or normal acceleration but restricted high-speed operation. But the vehicle would still be under power, able to drive, etc.
Almost certainly NOT the torque converter. It'd be the very unusual failure that would cause your issues.
A shallow-pan filter installed on a deep pan could cause all sorts of slipping/no-power problems.
I would want a pressure gauge to tap into (multiple?) transmission pressures. That will all depend on how many pressure taps there are on the case. Some transmissions have several taps for the various pressures. But each tap costs seven cents, so GM eliminated some on later models. There should be at least ONE pressure test port.
I bought this before I found out it was made in China. Any similar gauge that reads to ~300 psi and has a flexible hose with an assortment of pipe-thread adapters to screw into the case would work.
www.amazon.com/OTC-Tools-5610-Trans-Eng-Tester/dp/B000R5G0DO/ref=sr_1_2?crid=23ESWRH3RKAZM
In addition to the pressure gauge/multiple taps, a person could "air-test" the case after removing the valve body. Apply compressed air using a rubber-tip blow gun to various passages in the trans case, listen for the sound of clutches applying (or leaking air excessively.) This can diagnose failed clutch seals, accumulator seals, servos, etc. although it doesn't provide info about the clutch/band material itself.
I expected more than one place to air-check clutches without disassembling the trans--but this video shows only one. Not sure that's accurate.
xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media
YOU NEED A SERVICE MANUAL and what in America would be basic transmission diagnostic tools. Select service manuals may be downloaded from this web site.
There's about a thousand Youtube videos for working on the 700/4L60/'60E and related transmissions. Would be worth your time to search 'em out.
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Thanks guys,
as per various sources on Internet they recommend 12 quarts when dry,
the converter was not empty and not full either,
we put in about just under 9 quarts, she started leaking from the breather pipe so we sucked one q out,
the dipstick was showing overfilled both hot and cold,
baffling!
as per various sources on Internet they recommend 12 quarts when dry,
the converter was not empty and not full either,
we put in about just under 9 quarts, she started leaking from the breather pipe so we sucked one q out,
the dipstick was showing overfilled both hot and cold,
baffling!
Half the fluid is in the pan. Half the fluid is in the torque converter, valve body, clutch packs, servos, accumulators, etc.
Not unusual that you wouldn't get a full "12 quarts" into the thing since you didn't deliberately drain all the various hiding-places for fluid. In fact, it's basically impossible to drain the converter without drilling holes in it.
Verify that the dipstick "full" mark is level with the case where the pan bolts on. Then get the fluid level correct when up to operating temperature. Under- or over-full can cause fluid aeration and loss of fluid pressure.
Not unusual that you wouldn't get a full "12 quarts" into the thing since you didn't deliberately drain all the various hiding-places for fluid. In fact, it's basically impossible to drain the converter without drilling holes in it.
Verify that the dipstick "full" mark is level with the case where the pan bolts on. Then get the fluid level correct when up to operating temperature. Under- or over-full can cause fluid aeration and loss of fluid pressure.
