Please help! Idle issues now.

[ChrisAU]

that one willwork fine. You can even pick them up a Sears. Buying one local means you can return it if you either dont like it or if it breaks.

Wonder if Autozone rents them? I bet they do, that is probably what I will do.

 

[BOTTLEDZ28]

they might. Just check the thing before you leave and make sure its in good shape. I would still invest in one for your toolbox when money allows.

 

[bluex]

Well instead of dumping $30-$40 in another cap and rotor I went ahead and ordered that distributor assembly. I'm wondering if I damaged the pick-up coil when replacing the rotor maybe? Or perhaps just knocked the timing off a little somehow?

I'm not trying to be a jerk, and I understand trying to save the $$. But an AC cap, rotor and ICM for you truck would be $84-102 (they listed two different ICM's). That whole distributor setup for $60 has me seriously wondering about the quality of the components. I just dont see how they can be decent parts at that price. This is all just my opinion and I hope it works great for you. These areas are not places I like to skip on the quality of parts, but this also isnt your daliy driver so the setup I posted also could be considered overkill.

On the wires I was comparing them to a vortec set, which even the AC's are $90 or so, forgot yours was TBI when I posted that.

If you replace the distributor just like you described a few posts back all you should have to do is check the timing. If it was correct to start with before you did the gaskets and all it should still be ok. I maybe wrong but a timing problem would be present all the time IMO, but something like a cracked cap or module that is starting to go bad may only happen when up to operating temp. Adjusting/checking the timing is no big deal and really easy. Just get a good light and we can help you with that. I have a Sears dial back light, but if your setting to 0* you wont need that. It mainly helps on older cars where you need to set some inital advance.

I know I mentioned plugs earlier and that could still be a factor. I threaded mine in all the way by hand as well and managed to crack them when I tightened them with the ratchet. Keep plugging away at it, intermittent issues are the worst sometimes....

 

[ChrisAU]

I'm not trying to be a jerk, and I understand trying to save the $$. But an AC cap, rotor and ICM for you truck would be $84-102 (they listed two different ICM's). That whole distributor setup for $60 has me seriously wondering about the quality of the components. I just dont see how they can be decent parts at that price. This is all just my opinion and I hope it works great for you. These areas are not places I like to skip on the quality of parts, but this also isnt your daliy driver so the setup I posted also could be considered overkill.

On the wires I was comparing them to a vortec set, which even the AC's are $90 or so, forgot yours was TBI when I posted that.

If you replace the distributor just like you described a few posts back all you should have to do is check the timing. If it was correct to start with before you did the gaskets and all it should still be ok. I maybe wrong but a timing problem would be present all the time IMO, but something like a cracked cap or module that is starting to go bad may only happen when up to operating temp. Adjusting/checking the timing is no big deal and really easy. Just get a good light and we can help you with that. I have a Sears dial back light, but if your setting to 0* you wont need that. It mainly helps on older cars where you need to set some inital advance.

I know I mentioned plugs earlier and that could still be a factor. I threaded mine in all the way by hand as well and managed to crack them when I tightened them with the ratchet. Keep plugging away at it, intermittent issues are the worst sometimes....

Thanks for the feedback, I think after this step I'll be pulling the plugs to see if maybe one is broken, but they all felt snug and solid today. On my old '92 RCSB I ran Bosch Platinum +4's with great results, and its nice not having to worry about the gap, so I may pick up a set of those if the process of elimination gets to that.

 

[DRAGGIN95]

This has pretty much already been posted, but I will recap it with a post a replied to a while back, here's the link http://www.gmt400.com/forum/showthread.php?7197-changing-ignition-timing&highlight=timing

 

[MOBS]

Hey chris, just do fastorange's carb conversion with standalone hei distributor and 8mm wires.....problem fixed!!!

 

[ChrisAU]

This has pretty much already been posted, but I will recap it with a post a replied to a while back, here's the link http://www.gmt400.com/forum/showthread.php?7197-changing-ignition-timing&highlight=timing

Thanks for that link, that's the best how-to I've read so far.

 

[ChrisAU]

Hey chris, just do fastorange's carb conversion with standalone hei distributor and 8mm wires.....problem fixed!!!

Haha yeah, maybe one day!

 

[bluex]

Hey chris, just do fastorange's carb conversion with standalone hei distributor and 8mm wires.....problem fixed!!!

Step backwards IMO.

Dont give up on the FI, you will figure it out. Heck it will probably wind up being something simple...

 

[Blue95]

Stock plugs is all you should ever run, CR43TS is factory.