Peeling clear coat.. options/opinions?

[94Sierra4x4]

Clear coat: strip and repaint.

Rust, sand to virgin metal (leave no rust, not even specs), filler/primer and then hit it with paint.

you must use paint as primer is porous and will allow water and oxygen to make it to the base metal and cause rust all over again. Get a rattle can of matching paint if you're not doing the whole truck until you can swing a full paint job.

Is it just me or does your thumb look all F'd up?

I sliced through the entire tip with an exacto-blade a few days prior lol.. unless your talking about the knuckle.. i was pushing lol.
I think I'll do the entire truck with black plastidip..


So sand down to bare metal, filler, then primer.. then paint?
I guess I'll need to atleast knock down the clear on the entire truck?
Would a sanding block be a good idea?

 

[1993GMCSierra]

Clearcoat failure sucks, but after 15-25 years of sun exposure with little to no waxing over that time period (for most of us), you can't really ask much more from it. I've seen modern cars 3-4 years old with clearcoat going.

Ideally, keeping it waxed and garaged would be best, waxed and under a carport, then just waxed, would be the most/least ideal way to keep it in good shape.

People used to say that clearcoat eliminated the need for waxing the paint, which was partially true, as the old single stage paints needed to be waxed/polished regularly to keep them shiny, but clear coats have UV inhibitors in them that break down if no protection is applier over the clearcoat. It's only when this is gone that the clear starts to fail.

Sometimes it's bad prep at the factory, sometimes it's bad paint/clear, but usually it's just time.

 

[RyanMerrick]

Clearcoat failure sucks, but after 15-25 years of sun exposure with little to no waxing over that time period (for most of us), you can't really ask much more from it. I've seen modern cars 3-4 years old with clearcoat going.

Ideally, keeping it waxed and garaged would be best, waxed and under a carport, then just waxed, would be the most/least ideal way to keep it in good shape.

People used to say that clearcoat eliminated the need for waxing the paint, which was partially true, as the old single stage paints needed to be waxed/polished regularly to keep them shiny, but clear coats have UV inhibitors in them that break down if no protection is applier over the clearcoat. It's only when this is gone that the clear starts to fail.

Sometimes it's bad prep at the factory, sometimes it's bad paint/clear, but usually it's just time.

^This is pretty accurate, however I would add that 90's GM cars & trucks had terrible quality paint jobs.....As much as I love my truck, I see more clearcoat issues on GM vehicles than any other car company.

 

[1993GMCSierra]

They were all crappy in the early 90's. In '90 or '91, the EPA changed the allowable percentage of certain compounds that were used in automotive paints and clearcoats without giving Dupont, PPG, etc. adequate time for reformulating. It was basically a "everyone still needs paint, we have to shoot from the hip until we can get it right", creating paints that were either perfectly durable, but needed more cure time, or cured quickly, but were unstable. By the 90's everyone was using robots for paintwork anyways, and didn't increase the duration between paint/clearcoat cure times to match the new formulas, and due to a combination of factors, plus how the paint was cared for when new, some cars had paint coming off in sheets after a few years, some lasted 10 years, some are still with us.

It tended to affect certain colors too. On GM cars, white and silver were particularly bad.