Instant orange peel.

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Erik the Awful

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You can blame the OP and some of us for being cheap, but we're not trying to replicate the OEM finish. We're just trying to get 20ft paint jobs on workhorse trucks or stupid fun hot rods. It's silly to expect everyone to be willing to spend hundreds of dollars for professional paint products. Yes, we're being cheap. Are there any constructive answers that don't involve "spend more money"? I think we're prepared to accept answers like "I'm a professional and I haven't seen a cheap solution. "

Now I know that urethane won't stick to Rustoleum, and I bought a hundred bucks worth of 2k spray cans so I can respray my rear window and get glass installed. I do appreciate the advice.
 

TechNova

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You can blame the OP and some of us for being cheap, but we're not trying to replicate the OEM finish. We're just trying to get 20ft paint jobs on workhorse trucks or stupid fun hot rods. It's silly to expect everyone to be willing to spend hundreds of dollars for professional paint products. Yes, we're being cheap. Are there any constructive answers that don't involve "spend more money"? I think we're prepared to accept answers like "I'm a professional and I haven't seen a cheap solution. "

Now I know that urethane won't stick to Rustoleum, and I bought a hundred bucks worth of 2k spray cans so I can respray my rear window and get glass installed. I do appreciate the advice.
Needs15 answered the question. Look to a value line from one of the major auto paint companies. Rustoleum, Summit, Eastwood, Duplicolor, et al are not major auto paint companies. Nothing wrong with being cheap, but understand the limitations of the products. There are multiple reasons some paint is cheaper, it is not all the same, you get what you pay for. Value lines don't have a variant deck so color match will be an issue unless you are doing a complete.
 

Needs15

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Erik the Awful I never mentioned anything in my post about going out and spending hundreds of dollars in professional paint products, I said to use the proper products. Sure that might involve spending alittle more money then the stuff you can buy from the hardware store but issues like what the OP had are alot less likely to happen. There are lower tier lines of automotive products that don't break the bank that get the job done and are compatible.

Going out and spending $100 dollars on products you think are going to work because you don't want to spend $300 on products that do work and then when problems arise now you have to go and buy sand paper, chemical stripper, etc to fix the issue and buy all new product to do it over again. Is that really saving money?

My original post was more to educate people who maybe plan to do stuff in the future rather than a solution as I felt alot of other people had already offered a solution of spending more money on proper products or which products to use and how to fix the OP problem. Sure maybe wasn't in the best place to do that but if 1 or 2 people gain a little more knowledge or maybe take what I said into consideration I'm good with that.
 

letitsnow

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Cheap paint. Sometimes it works out, sometimes it takes 7 hours with a DA to get to this...

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Hipster

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You can blame the OP and some of us for being cheap, but we're not trying to replicate the OEM finish. We're just trying to get 20ft paint jobs on workhorse trucks or stupid fun hot rods. It's silly to expect everyone to be willing to spend hundreds of dollars for professional paint products. Yes, we're being cheap. Are there any constructive answers that don't involve "spend more money"? I think we're prepared to accept answers like "I'm a professional and I haven't seen a cheap solution. "

Now I know that urethane won't stick to Rustoleum, and I bought a hundred bucks worth of 2k spray cans so I can respray my rear window and get glass installed. I do appreciate the advice.
Brother I didn't mean it as a slam, but you'll probably be into materials at least $200 by time you're done with Rustoleum primers and spray can paints. Summit and Eastwood(re-packaged Kirker) paints have been mentioned and while not top tier 2k products are still better than 1k products that offer little to no chemical/uv resistance.
 
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letitsnow

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Flaking off?
Kind of, but not enough to not need sanding. Total mess.

I had painted black oil based enamel, then about a year later white oil based enamel, then a week later lacquer clear. I originally thought that the lacquer clear caused the problem but later found areas that I hadn't cleared that were peeling also. The white oil based enamel didn't bond to the black oil based enamel - Think it may have been racist.
 

Hipster

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Think it may have been racist.
Says you, lol

Just really hate to see guys go through this. I'm on another site where guys have done the rustoleum paint job to some rather high dollar classic cars. Plenty of YouTube vids talking it up about how great it is, but nobody is ever satisfied long term.
 

letitsnow

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Says you, lol

Just really hate to see guys go through this. I'm on another site where guys have done the rustoleum paint job to some rather high dollar classic cars. Plenty of YouTube vids talking it up about how great it is, but nobody is ever satisfied long term.

My 1st career was autobody so I know exactly what I am doing, and what might happen. This is just junk that is sacrificed to the road salt gods. You have to be willing to fix it when it doesn't work out though. Many don't have the "patience" to run a DA for 7 hours straight haha.
 

DeCaff2007

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My 1st career was autobody so I know exactly what I am doing, and what might happen. This is just junk that is sacrificed to the road salt gods. You have to be willing to fix it when it doesn't work out though. Many don't have the "patience" to run a DA for 7 hours straight haha.

That's not "patience". That's "insanity".
 
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