98_k1500
strange noises are normal
So, I couldn find any thread that could confirm exactly how to bypass the passlock on my 98 k2500. I started having issues out of it going into tamper mode a couple of weeks ago, and last night the passlock module in the ignition switch completely bit the dust. This also will bypass the passlock if you want to install a remote start kit on your truck. I took my lock cylinder out and removed my column covers. This can be done without removing the steering wheel if you know how. Pull out your tilt lever first (if you have tilt). It just pulls straight out, kinda hard but it will come. Remove your lower column cover. Then you can unbolt your upper column cover. Take a stiff piece of wire and bend it at a 90° angle about 1/4 inch from the end. Wiggle the column cover where it can be inserted just above the ignition lock cylinder. Using a flashlight, you can see the small hole in the top of the aluminum housing that releases the lock cylinder from the housing. Put the truck into reverse (or don't press the clutch if you have a manual, you don't want it to try to start when you turn the key). Turn the key into the start position, then press the wire into the hole on top of the lock cylinder. The lock cylinder will pull straight out in the start position. At this point, the upper column cover can be removed. You will be looking at this little booger right here.
You will need to cut the yellow and black/orange wires. Leave the red/white connected to the passlock sensor or cut it and cover the end of it with something, it will no longer be used. It is a 12v reference wire below the resistor block (the part that is factory heat shrinked in the pic a couple inches down from the plug) and 5V above it. The yellow and the black/orange wires go straight thru this block, so it does not matter which side of this you cut them on. Next, you will need a 560 ohm resistor. Easiest place to get them is radio shack. I bought a 5 pack of them for $1.20. It does not matter what watt the resistor is because there is not any load on the circuit, but it needs to be one that is accurate to 5% so it will work with your body control module properly. Solder the resistor between the yellow and black/orange wire and heat shrink them. Now it is time to do a re-learn. Re-insert your lock cylinder. Try to start your truck. It will start then immediately die. The security light on the dash will be flashing. Leave the key on until the passlock light goes out, this will take approximately 10 mins. At this point, turn your key off, then try to start your truck again. Again, it will start and die, with the security light on the dash flashing. Let it sit for 10 mins or until the light stops flashing, then turn the key off, and try to start your truck. It will start and die again. Repeat the wait until the security light goes off again. This time when the light goes off, turn your key off, then turn it back on. The security light will come on for bulb check, then go out. Start your truck. It has now learned this new resistor, and will not give any passlock issues again. Pull your lock cylinder back out by turning it to start, then pressing the release button again. Put your column covers back on, and re-insert your lock cylinder and tilt lever. No more passlock, no switches or relays to mess with, and no chance of your battery dying and your truck losing the enable code and going into tamper mode as it can if you just cut the wire with the truck running. This also will not turn your security light on . Hope i help someone with this thread, I sure could have used this when i did it, It took me a whole day to sort it all out.
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You will need to cut the yellow and black/orange wires. Leave the red/white connected to the passlock sensor or cut it and cover the end of it with something, it will no longer be used. It is a 12v reference wire below the resistor block (the part that is factory heat shrinked in the pic a couple inches down from the plug) and 5V above it. The yellow and the black/orange wires go straight thru this block, so it does not matter which side of this you cut them on. Next, you will need a 560 ohm resistor. Easiest place to get them is radio shack. I bought a 5 pack of them for $1.20. It does not matter what watt the resistor is because there is not any load on the circuit, but it needs to be one that is accurate to 5% so it will work with your body control module properly. Solder the resistor between the yellow and black/orange wire and heat shrink them. Now it is time to do a re-learn. Re-insert your lock cylinder. Try to start your truck. It will start then immediately die. The security light on the dash will be flashing. Leave the key on until the passlock light goes out, this will take approximately 10 mins. At this point, turn your key off, then try to start your truck again. Again, it will start and die, with the security light on the dash flashing. Let it sit for 10 mins or until the light stops flashing, then turn the key off, and try to start your truck. It will start and die again. Repeat the wait until the security light goes off again. This time when the light goes off, turn your key off, then turn it back on. The security light will come on for bulb check, then go out. Start your truck. It has now learned this new resistor, and will not give any passlock issues again. Pull your lock cylinder back out by turning it to start, then pressing the release button again. Put your column covers back on, and re-insert your lock cylinder and tilt lever. No more passlock, no switches or relays to mess with, and no chance of your battery dying and your truck losing the enable code and going into tamper mode as it can if you just cut the wire with the truck running. This also will not turn your security light on . Hope i help someone with this thread, I sure could have used this when i did it, It took me a whole day to sort it all out.
