PARKING BRAKE pedal won't release (not the cable) - trick to disengage? (1994 - 2500 - 2wd)

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Orpedcrow

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I do believe that (red) is the release. And (blue) should be loosened and slide up against it. Pull the handle and watch that cable. Everything should move in the direction of (yellow).

Just watch your face… :anitoof:
 

chevius

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hehehe - yeah, i recall while removing a power window assembly when the coil spring releases - that was one scary unknown at the time.

i'm initially puzzled.

The (red arrow) bolt and cable are for the release mechanism. That all seems to be working - cable pulls fine - nothing happens of course -- and even when harshly using the forks on a standard hammer underneath pedal and trying to lever the pedal up, no joy.

ACTUALLY - have read a few more times now and seems most interesting. Not sure why I'm puzzled - though it is 4 a.m.*-)

GREAT ASSIST - !
 
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Orpedcrow

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hehehe - yeah, i recall while removing a power window assembly when the coil spring releases - that was one scary unknown at the time.

i'm initially puzzled.

The (red arrow) bolt and cable are for the release mechanism. That all seems to be working - cable pulls fine - nothing happens of course -- and even when harshly using the forks on a standard hammer underneath pedal and trying to lever the pedal up, no joy.

ACTUALLY - have read a few more times now and seems most interesting. Not sure why I'm puzzled - though it is 4 a.m.*-)

GREAT ASSIST - !
Yea loosen blue and slide it up the cable closer to red, tighten, then pull the release and see what happens.
 

chevius

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thought I'd write AFTER getting out there to truck today - weather crap, didn't go out - so heck, just an update and thanks (to all) here -- will write after trying this, that, and the other thing!-)
 

chevius

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SHORT-VERSION: hope everyone's having a great enough time in and out there.
NOTE: two sets of pix after this

1) I figure the brake pedal was mashed to the truck floor and is either stuck OR run just off the last gear/sprocket, if as I suppose, that possible. (recalling helpful comment above)

2) The pictures show that in my opinion the cable is fine both front and back.

3) The 2nd bunch of pix (3) are what got me to hesitating more as I wanted to make some notes and really remember all the stuff i learned about the DUO-SERVO brake adjustments when i did the brakes way back. MOSTLY: that 2 screwdrivers for the win - one to hold the bar AWAY from the adjustment gear/sprocket - and the 2nd screwdriver to do the spinning of the adjustment gear.

4) Plus, I'm for sure (when i get out there in day of two - REALLY make notes/video on which way the adjustment gear spins on the driver's side, and which way it spins on the passenger side to loosen and/or tighten. YEP, could be totally off on that - though for sure i wanna know as that adjustment gear has hundred of thread

THE BIG ONE: as it appears I'll be running without the parking brake for a while (IF I have it right that's it's possible safely)
The questions are:

-- can i leave the passenger DUO_SERVE cable loose - as i definitely have enough slack in the driver's side cable with the adjustment gear so not so many thread are showing (pix shows)

-- then, i wonder if adjusting both adjustment gears the same will give me brakes without the parking brake - given that I have full slack on the passenger side die to cable totally loose. (Dorman part in pix) yet if I show too much thread on the driver's side I'm gonna get the parking brake mechanism pushing the pads out - not to mention getting the drums back on.

WHATEVER HAPPENS IS ALWAYS FINE - many thanks - I'll sort it at some point.

---------------- OPTIONAL READ BELOW kind-of-an-apology for being slack -------------
Though about posting every single day - multiple times - You know the one where think more about something you wanna do when you haven't done it. i'm saying - got lots of excuses though didn't feel right at all to take some pix a week ago after latest doings and decision, and then not follow-through here.

Even though I had hoped to take a couple more pix after finishing what I'm going to do at the truck just to get it moving - I'm happy with the DOWNSIZING of the latest pix I'm about to post. (5 max per post - and I have 7 (4 and 3) so two posts) I noticed if one clicks on a pix they become a slideshow kinda and respect the intended size (i made 'em smaller)
 
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chevius

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I noticed double clicking on one pix brings up a slide-show which is great.

I'll figure out why my final 3 pix here lay out way better i think.

Though yeah, I'm happy to know that double-clicking a pix makes all my lack of skill at uploading go away kinda - hahaha



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chevius

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Showing adjustment gear all the way IN of driver's side and a lotta the way out on passenger's side.

it will be interesting to see if I can find something close to a sweet spot where i can get the drums back on, and with the passenger side parking brake cable totally disconnected as per pix. (dorman bit for DUO-SERVO brakes where there's one main cable that affects the rear driver's side and the passenger side cable gets pull by that DORMAN fitting as YOU likely know!)

AND, the driver's side cable even though the parking brake pedal is ALL the way down, by tightening the adjustment gear so that not-a-lotta thread show (pix driver's side adjustment gear) i've wondered if I can have REAL brakes and not have the parking brake engage on the driver's side - it being the main concern as it's the MAIN cable that working the driver's side rear parking brake of course and the pedal's to the floor meaning the cable is FULL-PULLED - yet, seems like loosening the adjustment gear should take the parking brake driver's side out the DUR-SERVO system - SEEMS POSSIBLE - in my imagination. heh-heh

OR maybe I'll just look at the brake pedal diagram and somehow get it right - Spring time sounds good!-)




ADDITIONAL: I'll figure out why this post's pix lay out way better than the one above. sorry about that.
 

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Schurkey

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The shoes on each side of the vehicle MUST come to rest on the anchor-pin at the top. If they won't touch the anchor pin, the park brake cable has excess tension. This would be extremely likely since the pedal is pushed to the floor and won't release; but also happens when the park brake is applied and the cables seize in the sheaths so they won't release.

AFTER you get the pair of shoes on each side to rest on the anchor pin, you can adjust the star-wheel at the bottom so that the shoes have light drag on the drums. Then step on the service-brake pedal to apply the brakes, which aligns the shoes. Release the pedal, re-check the adjustment--good chance they'll be loose again. When applying and releasing the service brakes doesn't loosen the adjustment, the adjustment is done.

I don't know how you're going to get the park brake pedal to return to it's normal at-rest position. Maybe it's broken, maybe it needs "encouragement". Never dicked with that...although I'm overdue for that on my '97 K2500. So I guess I'll be learning from you.

Once the service brakes are properly adjusted, and the park brake pedal returns to it's at-rest position, you can tension the park brake cable as needed. The park brake is always adjusted AFTER the service brakes have been adjusted, and verified to rest on the anchor pin.

Fairly common for the park brake cables to be seized within the sheaths, and they have to be replaced.
 
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