Brake pedal goes to the floor after new shoes

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

SUBURBAN5

I'm Awesome
Joined
Jul 18, 2020
Messages
4,722
Reaction score
8,021
Location
Houston
The last thing i did before giving up for the night was attempting to pressure bleed in the rr rl fr fl pattern furthest to closest.
Getting fluid would be obvious. I'm just trying to eliminate chasing your tale. In my case I wasn't getting fluid to the rear drums. I thought they were bleeding but turned out it was residual brake fluid in the lines. Long story short.. mc ended up being the cause. I had suspected the abs module at first because when I removed it, it was gunked up with black fluid. My combination valve was only allowing fluid to the front, doing its job ... you said you were getting fluid everywhere when bench bleeding the mc. I would definitely bleed that again real good to eliminate any possible air pockets
 

SUBURBAN5

I'm Awesome
Joined
Jul 18, 2020
Messages
4,722
Reaction score
8,021
Location
Houston
I didnt have a complaint beyond the recently developed stuttering, i dont carry any weight so it stopped just fine and the pedal wasnt what ive seen some people complain about. The stuttering wasnt consistently all the time so that is one reason i thought there might be something else failing and not warped rotors. The MC had been changed by my dad when he originally got the truck a few years back and im fairly sure he never bled the ABS and the brakes felt fine. Squishier than his 02 1500HD but I dont think that would surprise anyone.
Well I would still suspect the module trapping air. I understand what your saying but unless you have a damaged component somewhere. Module seems like the most likely cause of the sinking peddle. Nothing in the braking system can be adjusted. Accept the drums. Everything else is install and bleed. Abs being the most labor intensive PITA
 

GoToGuy

I'm Awesome
Joined
Sep 16, 2020
Messages
3,132
Reaction score
3,679
Location
CAL
It not how they feel removing the drums. It's how there adjusted installed in running position. Turning the star out till there is some drag on the wheel.
Was vibration or pulsating in the brake pedal. Did braking vibration come through steering wheel? Did you idle on street and apply park brake to see if drums out of round causing vibes or pulsating?
What do you mean " a bang when coming off the brakes " ?
That's not normal. When you have open lines , air intrusion, vacuum bleeding is not as effective as pressure bleeding.
 

97c1500ext

Newbie
Joined
Oct 23, 2023
Messages
24
Reaction score
24
Location
United States
Well I would still suspect the module trapping air. I understand what your saying but unless you have a damaged component somewhere. Module seems like the most likely cause of the sinking peddle. Nothing in the braking system can be adjusted. Accept the drums. Everything else is install and bleed. Abs being the most labor intensive PITA
Ok my process for the next attempt is going to be, bleed the MC, bleed the combo valve, bleed the wheels. I will also triple check that the shoes are tight before i do this. I will have to buy a scanner which i have seen in previous posts must be a 2010 software or later to have the right option to bleed the ABS. I have also read forcing the ABS to activate on a low traction surface may have some benefit.
 

SUBURBAN5

I'm Awesome
Joined
Jul 18, 2020
Messages
4,722
Reaction score
8,021
Location
Houston
Ok my process for the next attempt is going to be, bleed the MC, bleed the combo valve, bleed the wheels. I will also triple check that the shoes are tight before i do this. I will have to buy a scanner which i have seen in previous posts must be a 2010 software or later to have the right option to bleed the ABS. I have also read forcing the ABS to activate on a low traction surface may have some benefit.
Sounds like a plan. Your brake lines are fairly new right? Meaning the rubber ones?
 

97c1500ext

Newbie
Joined
Oct 23, 2023
Messages
24
Reaction score
24
Location
United States
It not how they feel removing the drums. It's how there adjusted installed in running position. Turning the star out till there is some drag on the wheel.
Was vibration or pulsating in the brake pedal. Did braking vibration come through steering wheel? Did you idle on street and apply park brake to see if drums out of round causing vibes or pulsating?
What do you mean " a bang when coming off the brakes " ?
That's not normal. When you have open lines , air intrusion, vacuum bleeding is not as effective as pressure bleeding.
I dont believe it was in the pedal but it has been a week now that i cant drive it so its hard to remember as it didnt happen many times. There was a very noticable feeling in the steering wheel, pulling with moderate force left to right rapidly.

It was becoming difficult to get the drum on and off so i figured it must have been close, i had at first over adjust one and couldnt even get the drum on so i thought they were close enough.

I did not check the drums for roundness but they arent very worn, the lip i polished was not very noticeable but i did it just to be sure. my truck is only 115k miles and has been fairly well maintained.

It happened only a few times and not consistently but to me it sounded as if one of the brakes was sticking then rapidly unstuck with a decent amount of force, i felt it shake the truck and heard a fairly loud sound coming from the rear.

I will also add i attempted to adjust the shoes with the drums in by pushing the parking brake, letting it off, then pushing the regular brake, quite a few times as i have read the drum adjuster only works when you engage the p brake.
 

SUBURBAN5

I'm Awesome
Joined
Jul 18, 2020
Messages
4,722
Reaction score
8,021
Location
Houston
No my lines are all metal, the front lines are i believe original and i just had the rear replaced after it blew out a few months back.
If your front rubber lines are original going to the calipers. Nows the time to change them out to stainless steel braided or new rubber if money's tight. Rear differential line as well unless that's the one that popped.
 

97c1500ext

Newbie
Joined
Oct 23, 2023
Messages
24
Reaction score
24
Location
United States
If your front rubber lines are original going to the calipers. Nows the time to change them out to stainless steel braided or new rubber if money's tight. Rear differential line as well unless that's the one that popped.
The main line from the front to the rear was replaced. I do not think there is a leak, there is no puddles or wetness anywhere. Would you be able to provide a part number for the braided lines? im having trouble finding them.
 

SUBURBAN5

I'm Awesome
Joined
Jul 18, 2020
Messages
4,722
Reaction score
8,021
Location
Houston
Top