My Flat Tappet Cam Wiped Out So I Decided To Go Roller

[PlayingWithTBI]

The timing marks on my '88 K1500 5.7L are "straight up and down". Takes the long water pump, and firing the timing light down between the timing cover, water pump, and accessory drive plate.

I wonder if you have a "car" L03? Mine takes the long water pump too. Where the timing marks are makes it way easier to see it, especially when I'm looking at total advance, with the EST wire connected, on the timing light, when I'm running ~20-24° at idle. Then it's at the top of the damper before I dial the light down

 

[Schurkey]

LO5. Far as I know, it's original; but I bought the truck with 170-something thousand miles on it.

My buddy's '89 K1500 5.7L also has the timing marks straight up 'n' down.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

LO5. Far as I know, it's original

My bad I meant L05. To be honest I don't remember seeing a SBC with the timing marks on top

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Well, we made some progress yesterday. We finished swapping out the springs. The spring compressor I bought didn't fit on the back 3 valves due to the A/C lines and accumulator but, the little one from HF worked. It was just a little slower doing it.

Here's the spring compressor from Summit Racing. When you go over the top, as in this picture, it locks in the compressed position so, you can remove the locks with a magnet using both hands. You can see 1 lock still on the stem.

You must be registered for see images attach

I've been soaking the lifters in oil for about a week even though Comp Cams says you don't have to but, I'm too old school to not do it, LOL. Got the lifters in and bolted down the Spider. The bolts supplied with the roller cam installation kit were too long, or the bosses were too short. Either way they bottomed out before the Spider was clamped down. Luckily I had some 5/16" X 1/2" NC grade 8 bolts which worked fine. Cleaned out the bosses with brake cleaner and compressed air so the blue locktite would hold.

This picture is with too long bolts. Who knows, with how much spring the spider arms have it may have worked anyway.

You must be registered for see images attach

Now the Chromoly push rods (since I have guide plates) and 1.5 full roller rockers installed and lifter preload set. Set rockers to zero lash plus 1/2 turn. When installing the rods and rockers, I dripped some assembly lube in the pockets before putting them in. These rockers come with the roller fulcrum where one side is flattened for the polylocks while the other is round. When we were setting preload, one of the locking screws went in further than others. Guess what, the fulcrum was spun around to the wrong position. Pulled it and spun it back - no issues.

You must be registered for see images attach

3 hours worth done. IDK if we'll get 'er fired up next week or not. I ordered a case of brake cleaner, now I have a bunch of scraping and cleaning to do

I also got DEI-10095 1800° Lava Rock wrap from Summit, 2 - 50' rolls and locking ties for my headers. I probably don't need that much but, what the hell?

Again, I'm posting this for anyone interested. I'm sure a lot of members already know all this stuff but, if it helps others, it's well wort it to me. Especially the issues/challenges we run across.

Comments, questions always welcome

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Oh BTW, here's the HF spring compressor (red arrow)

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Here's what we went through to install the springs and locators. As I mentioned earlier, I had to grind down the locators to fit between the seats and the bolt only on the 2 exhaust valves for cyls 3&5 and 4&6.

You can see how close they are here, is it because I have 2.02"/1.60" valves? Anyway, I would venture a guess any springs bigger than 1.43" diameter might not fit at all.

You must be registered for see images attach

Here's the clearance on the rest of the valves.

You must be registered for see images attach

Then I started looking at the timing chain set, they looked like they're sticking out pretty far. I measured the distance between the mounting surface on the block and the outer edge of the timing chain - 7/8" using a straight edge across the face. I went and did the same with my cover and got 3/4", oh damn!

Went on Summit Racing and found a deeper cover and adjustable pointer, which they said will fit my timing set. They s/b hear Friday or Monday, coming from Reno NV, more stuff to add to my build sheet but less gasket scraping to do
www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G6300W

Summit Racing SUM-G6300W Summit Racing™ Cast Aluminum Timing Covers | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Summit Racing™ Cast Aluminum Timing Covers with qualifying orders of $99. Shop Timing Covers at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-163800

Summit Racing SUM-163800 Summit Racing™ Adjustable Timing Pointers | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Summit Racing™ Adjustable Timing Pointers with qualifying orders of $99. Shop Timing Pointers at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

We're getting closer, should be able to start it up next week. I got the parts cleaned up and ready for assembly. We put the timing gears dot to dot, checked for TDC, installed the timing cover and went to install the adjustable pointer. The bolts were too short and the base of the pointer was flat where the cover had a small radius between the flat and raised part.

That's funny because they're both Summit Racing parts and the pointer was suggested to go with the cover. So I took the pointer to the bench grinder and took off ~1/4" and added the radius. Then installed the balancer, we had to do it that way because one of the pointer's bolts go behind it. FYI - it's an 8" balancer.

FYI - on my 88, the ground comes from the battery to the bolt just above the A.I.R. pump, the the ground strap goes from front to the frame.

You must be registered for see images attach

Then my son climbed back up into the engine compartment to prep for the intake manifold. He spread some RTV around the water ports and laid a big bead on the China rails. Yes, I used the GM Genuine Parts intake gaskets for a TBI

You must be registered for see images attach

He's been using this stuff for about a year now. He says it's better than the Right Stuff, it cures more flexible and scrapes off much easier. I know, Furd stuff? He's not a Furd fan either (I brought him up better than that) but swears by this stuff.

You must be registered for see images attach

Now time for the distributor. With #1 piston at TDC compression stroke dropped it in with it pointing at the #1 cylinder (or close enough to start it and set timing with a light). Years ago when I stabbed a distributor in my 283s and 327s, I could find the pump rod with it, and then lift the distributor until its gear just clears the cam's, turn the rotor AND pump rod until I get it to where I want, then drop it down. If it's a tooth off, I just raise the distributor and repeat until it's just right. I told him to try it on this engine and it worked just fine!

You must be registered for see images attach

To be continued...

 

[Supercharged111]

We're getting closer, should be able to start it up next week. I got the parts cleaned up and ready for assembly. We put the timing gears dot to dot, checked for TDC, installed the timing cover and went to install the adjustable pointer. The bolts were too short and the base of the pointer was flat where the cover had a small radius between the flat and raised part.

That's funny because they're both Summit Racing parts and the pointer was suggested to go with the cover. So I took the pointer to the bench grinder and took off ~1/4" and added the radius. Then installed the balancer, we had to do it that way because one of the pointer's bolts go behind it. FYI - it's an 8" balancer.

FYI - on my 88, the ground comes from the battery to the bolt just above the A.I.R. pump, the the ground strap goes from front to the frame.

You must be registered for see images attach

Then my son climbed back up into the engine compartment to prep for the intake manifold. He spread some RTV around the water ports and laid a big bead on the China rails. Yes, I used the GM Genuine Parts intake gaskets for a TBI

You must be registered for see images attach

He's been using this stuff for about a year now. He says it's better than the Right Stuff, it cures more flexible and scrapes off much easier. I know, Furd stuff? He's not a Furd fan either (I brought him up better than that) but swears by this stuff.

You must be registered for see images attach

Now time for the distributor. With #1 piston at TDC compression stroke dropped it in with it pointing at the #1 cylinder (or close enough to start it and set timing with a light). Years ago when I stabbed a distributor in my 283s and 327s, I could find the pump rod with it, and then lift the distributor until its gear just clears the cam's, turn the rotor AND pump rod until I get it to where I want, then drop it down. If it's a tooth off, I just raise the distributor and repeat until it's just right. I told him to try it on this engine and it worked just fine!

You must be registered for see images attach

To be continued...

You let him leave?! Call him back and crack the whip until it's done!

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

You let him leave?! Call him back and crack the whip until it's done!

I don't wanna piss him off, he may not come back and, I still have to finish our kitchen

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

OH, BTW the port on the exhaust manifold/header for the A.I.R. pipe is M22X1.5.

You must be registered for see images attach