Long, long brake pedal.

[Pinger]

New MC fitted and initially no better than before in terms of the pedal falling away when stationary.
Did a few back and forths on the driveway and the sinking feeling has gone and the brakes are savagely effective. Just residual air in the MC (I bench bled) that I can see appearing as bubbles in the MC.
Can't see any point in bleeding at the wheels as I'd be trying to shove bubbles down lengths of pipe work when the want to travel upwards. I'd have more success shoving hot butter up a wild cat's arse with a red hot poker so now the truck can be trusted to stop on command I'll give it the chance to release any remaining air on its own. A 'cats' eyes' bleed - that'll release its trapped wind.

 

[96-2D-Hoe]

I've been through more than a couple MC's from the local auto parts store and I didn't kill all of them. I finally bought a delco from RA, that acted strangely when bench bleeding and it is leaking from the cap. Your issue could be a seal in the ABS or the MC itself. The constant bubbles would indicate a leaking seal in the MC imo. I had this happen a few times also.
PS. When bench bleeding do not stroke the MC more than 3/4 to 1". I killed at least one MC by stroking too deeply. Also fill and leave it alone for 15 mins before you first stroke it to lubricate seals.

 

[Pinger]

Your issue could be a seal in the ABS or the MC itself. The constant bubbles would indicate a leaking seal in the MC imo. I had this happen a few times also.
PS. When bench bleeding do not stroke the MC more than 3/4 to 1". I killed at least one MC by stroking too deeply. Also fill and leave it alone for 15 mins before you first stroke it to lubricate seals.

I think my issue is solved now and the bubbles are just a continuation of bleeding.
On the bench, I did it by the book - pre-wetted and limited stroke.

I've been through more than a couple MC's from the local auto parts store and I didn't kill all of them. I finally bought a delco from RA, that acted strangely when bench bleeding and it is leaking from the cap.

Mine behaved oddly bench bleeding. The rear brake part gave up its bubbles quickly then propelled fluid back into the reservoir. The part for the front brakes (big reservoir side) never spurted but would release more air every time it had been left for a while.

 

[96-2D-Hoe]

My experience with the auto parts MC's (Duralast) was the front brake section would spurt fluid enough to get over the lip. Probably went through at least 6 of them over two replacements a couple years apart. The Delco one did the opposite and the rear brake section would spurt fluid enough to get over the lip. But I was basically saying there are plenty bad ones out there on the shelf. Glad you got it worked out this morning.

PS.
I did have a couple that stopped leaking bubbles while bench bleeding and also had some that didn't. I returned the ones that didn't.

 

[Pinger]

The new master cylinder fitted.

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[HotWheelsBurban]

The new master cylinder fitted.

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Just remembered, when I pressure bled the front brakes on my Burb 2 years ago, on the first couple of stops, the pedal travel was still a little long. By the third one, it was like it's supposed to be. And I think I found my ABS issue; the wires on the right side front sensor package (that was replaced October '18 at a cost around $80) are worn through. Saw this when swapping wheels and tires last Friday. Guess the cable holder broke?
Stops even better with new tires on the rear and better ones on the front! Like to think I got some improvements for my $400 investment ($ 325 for 2 tires and most of the rest for whell swap/remount).
I think part of your continued brake problems on your Burb (hopefully resolved now) are from it sitting so much in a cold, damp climate. That's the downside of low mileage....

 

[Pinger]

Just remembered, when I pressure bled the front brakes on my Burb 2 years ago, on the first couple of stops, the pedal travel was still a little long. By the third one, it was like it's supposed to be. And I think I found my ABS issue; the wires on the right side front sensor package (that was replaced October '18 at a cost around $80) are worn through. Saw this when swapping wheels and tires last Friday. Guess the cable holder broke?
.

That's a boost - been bugging you for a while.

I think part of your continued brake problems on your Burb (hopefully resolved now) are from it sitting so much in a cold, damp climate. That's the downside of low mileage....

It's not so bad when used regularly. Leave them a few months and the trouble really begins!

Since then (and not before) I've had a few instances of a 'zinging' kind of noise that reminds me of the ABS pump always during cornering, very brief and not provokable. It did that this evening when I had to go back out in it but not once during the 65 miles of 'long pedal' in the afternoon. It sounds like when something rotating is rubbing against a spring - that kind of zingy zizzy sound. Rear brakes are the obvious thought but when I previously mentioned the long pedal (when stationary) someone here (Supercharged IIRC) urged me to check out the rear brakes. Which I did, replaced both cylinders and everything went back together without problems.

The two aren't necessarily connected.... and, there's nothing at all (especially) from the pedal to suggest that there's bits loose/breaking up/etc within the drums. At the front the calipers are all good - worked on them earlier in the year.
.

Possibly - or I find something entirely unrelated to brakes rubbing against something! Weirdest of all is that it always happens on the same bend (but going in either direction). First time it happened I thought it was a train's horn (there's a railway line close by) but it's a bit of a stretch to believe I'm running to train timetables!

Mystery of the 'zinging' noise solved.
That bit of road was recently resurfaced and when they put down the (continuous) white lines they finished them with a sort of tyre tread pattern.... I can confirm if they were done that way as an audible warning - it works. SFA to do with ABS.

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

That's a boost - been bugging you for a while.



It's not so bad when used regularly. Leave them a few months and the trouble really begins!





Mystery of the 'zinging' noise solved.
That bit of road was recently resurfaced and when they put down the (continuous) white lines they finished them with a sort of tyre tread pattern.... I can confirm if they were done that way as an audible warning - it works. SFA to do with ABS.

Yes the recently repaved highways in Texas have that "warning strip " on the roadside the last several years. Very effective at grabbing your attention! Some roads have it in the middle on the dividing line too. I've read that in west Texas some highways have the strips set as so it "plays " "The Eyes of Texas " when you drive on them. Oh kay......
At least we're starting to get things sorted on our Burbs....

 

[Pinger]

Yes the recently repaved highways in Texas have that "warning strip " on the roadside the last several years. Very effective at grabbing your attention! Some roads have it in the middle on the dividing line too. I've read that in west Texas some highways have the strips set as so it "plays " "The Eyes of Texas " when you drive on them. Oh kay......
At least we're starting to get things sorted on our Burbs....

Bagpipe drone here in Scotland.
Edges and centre line here. It was more the centre ones that caught me out. Completely unnecessary as my 'Burb rattles louder hitting the cat's eyes.

 

[Schurkey]

Shurkey (I think it is) is a fan....

FINALLY got a photo of my brake bleeder attachment. I bought this in the mid-to-late 1980s. I now see that it's had better days. The rubber straps are getting rotted; and I've lost one of the silver adapters that pops onto the bottom of the orangey-gold anodized aluminum tubes.

Photo 1. EIS brake bleeder adapter, model T6250. EIS is long out-of-business. EIS was owned by Parker-Hannifin, who owned the patent on this adapter (see below). EIS later got sold to Standard Motor Parts, who then traded it to someone else, who eventually locked the doors.
http://hbassociates.us/Brake_Bleeder_EIS_T6250_01.jpg

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There is a slight difference in the spacing between the outlet ports. The forward one is in the same place on both but the rearward one is about 5-10mm out. Expecting the pipe to accommodate this....

That's a little disturbing.

Bench bleeding is a bit odd. I do the pump stuff, no more bubbles. Come back again after a few minutes, more pump more bubbles. Rinse repeat rinse repeat....

Not as uncommon as we'd all hope.

No defined 'fitting' for bleeding that would allow the reservoir to go unpressurised. Just a well in the reservoir moulding about 3/4'' ID and about the same in depth. Maybe a snug fitting bit of hose attached to a pressure source of choice might work but I haven't the time just now to try right now. If the MC that is about to be removed is the same I can experiment later.

There's a bleeder attachment similar to mine on eBay right now. Downside is that it doesn't seem to come with the two silver adapters which are needed for Delco master cylinders.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/USED-BLEEDER-HARNESS-FOR-BRAKE-MASTER-CYLINDERS-PATENT-4170280/181998604215

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