L31 Extreme Budget Build

[L31MaxExpress]

This is some more advanced settings available. All of this is what I am using for my startup tuning. Once it learns a bit, I will probably be able to bring the timing up and a quicker curve overall. Then again my goal is to run this on 87 octane, so maybe not. This system does not use a knock sensor, so have to stay a bit conservative on everything especially at 10.2:1 with iron heads.

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[transitionbikes93]

That being said the shorties that are more of a mid length that come with 3 bolt 2.5" flanges to build an exhaust and ditch the factory Y-pipe probably outflow these.

Older comment but this is good to know. I got mid length headers with 3 bolt 2.5” flanges and I built my own 2.5” exhaust with an x pipe and I was worried a little about the quality and how well they flow. They feel like the truck definitely gained a little power when I swapped out to the duals/header combo.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

I have had the engine fired up and running. But this winter I am working on other stuff that it needs to be road trip worthy. I found the C100 connector bodies and Packard 56/59 pins that go into it inexpensively. Building a new underhood engine and headlight harness. Rebuilding the front suspension, steering and brakes on all 4 corners. Also completely redoing the ac system. It had steering and braking issues when I took it off the road. Loose idler, failing ball joints, control arm bushings were sloppy, rotors were trashed and it had a hanging caliper or bad brake hose that was noticeable during harder braking. When I had the 6.0L in it and running last, I used a R4 bracket to keep the stock system. But I am building lines to run the L31 Vortec brackets, the Sanden SD7H15 I had on the 97 and replacing the evaporator core and adding a parallel flow condenser. I felt like I was being watched and had my picture taken working on the project.

Parts to start putting it back together should be here in a week or two. New polyurethane bushings, new lower ball joints, new upper control arms (might put the poly upper bushings into them), new KYB Monomax shocks, new tie rod ends and adjuster sleeves, new idler, new pitman arm, new rotors, new wheel bearings and seals, reman calipers, stuff to rebuild the drum brakes, new cast iron master cylinder, new brake hoses, new C100 plugs, Packard 56 and 59 male connector pins, bulk wiring in OE quality and colors, new connectors bodies and pins for the alternator, oil preasure switch/sensor, fuel pump and transmission kickdown relay, LEDs all around, and a new evaporator core and ac hoses and fittings. Probably a few things I am forgetting too. That stuff is in addition to the fresh budget L31, a new fuel tank, new sending unit, new vortec fuel pump, new radiator, and all new plumbing for the oil cooler, fuel system and cooling system. Getting it turn key ready for whatever length of trip I want to drive it on. I am also switching from the older vacuum cruise control system to the GM electronic cruise control. Lots of work left to do but mechanically should drive like new when I am done if not better than new. I mean it had a 175 hp 305 when it was new and I expect the 350 will make a solid 370. Then next summer on to the interior build followed by some body work and paint. The only body damage on the thing is from the passenger door check failing and bending it up a bit and the roof under the add on roof rack where it got driven under something too low and left a nice dent. The RH side of the rear bumper has a slight tweak to it where it was backed into something. Other than that just a solid old G20. Body and unibody frame are as rust free as they come but oddly enough the battery tray is rotted out. Probably put the battery under it on the frame since I plan to add a 2nd battery to it anyway.

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[L31MaxExpress]

A couple more. Most of the accessories are on the engine, plumbing is under way, a couple of weeks ago I hooked up the ignition system and Edelbrock ECU, put a starter on it and connected a battery sitting beside it on the floor back by the starter, bottle fed it and had it running for about a minute to make sure it was a solid runner before I spend hours finalizing everything. The 2.5" straight pipes off the Hooker manifolds are LOUD especially inside of the concrete shop. Pretty much where I walked away from it last night to enjoy my weekend. The front suspension is off, the firewall is nearly bare and I am starting on building an actual new engine harness to integrate in the Proflow 4 setup and Vortec accessories and gauge sending units.

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[SAATR]

Project looks like it's coming right along. And, finally(!), a face to go with the name.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

Project looks like it's coming right along. And, finally(!), a face to go with the name.

Yes sir! Moving right along and you guys finally see my ugly face and crazy but warm winter hair, lol.

 

[Supercharged111]

Man I had you pegged as way older for some reason, must be the vans.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

Man I had you pegged as way older for some reason, must be the vans.

I mean I just turned 38 in October. I am not old but I am not young either. My birthdate is the date they always went back to in 1985 in the Back to the Future trilogy. October 27th, 1985. I was also an early AM baby. My parents had been out at a place that served a thing called a crazy burger and crazy nachos the night before I was born. Those were covered in chili, guacamole, and such. She thought I was indigestion at first and barely made it to the hospital before I was born. I interrupted their plans to take the boat to the lake that Sunday morning.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

I mean I just turned 38 in October.

My son just turned 40 on Nov 30

 

[Erik the Awful]

I found the C100 connector bodies and Packard 56/59 pins that go into it inexpensively.

Man, you can't post crap like that without links! The cheapest I've been able to find female terminals is $11 for 25, and I'm almost out.

For the uninformed, Packard 56/59 were the standard automotive terminals for decades before everything went weatherproofed metric. They're still used on lawnmowers. They can carry more current than most other terminals you normally find - 48 amps, but they have no weatherproofing. The proper crimpers are usually around $150, but if you hunt around you can find them as "cheap" as $80.