K1500 Suburban fuel line QD to Steel Braided Hose swap at tank/pump

[Erik the Awful]

Dropping the tank is great, when you have a lift and a transmission jack. I was a Nissan tech back when they had a recall on the fuel tank temp sensors in the trucks. Some guys were taking half an hour to lift the bed. I could drop the tank in five minutes.

 

[454cid]

Dropping the tank is great, when you have a lift and a transmission jack. I was a Nissan tech back when they had a recall on the fuel tank temp sensors in the trucks. Some guys were taking half an hour to lift the bed. I could drop the tank in five minutes.

Last time I replaced my pump, I pulled the bed AND dropped the tank. Getting that out and back in was major pain when working on soft dirt, and the tank had some gas in it.... I could not balance that thing on a floor jack for anything. I ended up pulling the tank too, because I decided I wanted acesss to the frame for cleaning.

Not having a lift, I like being able to work from above, and having plenty of room to move around. I don't like pulling the bed, because I need help doing so.... also all my bolts are rusty now (Michigan winters). I only have 7 bolts now, as one broke off. I used new bolts, but I could not get the 8th bolt out of the bed.

Now, I really need to drop the tank again.... to replace it. The original has leaked ever since I replaced the pump. The tank has rusted through right below the filler neck. My lines are also super rusty. I plan on replacing them with nylon.

 

[David Hopwood]

I appreciate your replies. Its nice to see everyone's point of view. I think I didn't explain well enough what it is I am planning to do. I have replaced the fuel pump assembly on suburbans (1995 C1500 and 1999 K1500) a few times, its not my first rodeo.

What I am saying is that I had the nipples break of into the QD lines on accident. I wasn't trying to remove them at the time. It just happened due to my negligence when moving the tank to the side to access some wires.

So, since this is not a cheap pump (Airtex E3963M) I wanted to see about cutting off the nipples on the top, cut it flush and install AN bulkhead fittings and put a barb fitting for the fuel pressure side ( just like the original design). I'd have the return line also come through the pump housing via a bulkhead fitting and connect to a hose and drain back into the tank.

There would be no jerry rigging or half @$$ed work. This would basically be the same kind of thing you would do if you were to fabricate your own fuel tank and install the plumbing for the pump. Not sure how no one is getting this but, I guess its my fault. No one knows who I am or what I know and can in all fairness assume that I am a keyboard mechanic.

My goal was to see what others have considered doing in this situation. I have done this before with success on other cars and it really did improve the fuel flow. Since I am using a -8AN feed and -6AN return line, I doubt I would be improving much. All I would really be doing is making it easier to remove and install the lines and make it more durable in the long run.

With that said, what are your thoughts on this? Again, I don't mind buying a new pump, thats not the issue.

 

[Supercharged111]

Both of my trucks are supercharged with stock lines and don't starve for fuel. I just don't see the point in it.

 

[454cid]

That pump is a pretty cheap pump..... $120 on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Airtex-E3963M-Fuel-Module-Assembly/dp/B000C1HKAU

 

[Frank Enstein]

David you got it right when you said PTFE hose. Using -8 for the feed is overkill (you can feed 1000 HP with a -6) if you own it it won't hurt a thing. I help people with automotive plumbing at my day job for over 20 years so been there done that. I had a customer burn his car to the ground from one of the stupid plastic clips breaking so I am allergic to the quick connect fittings. I had the heater hose on my 94 Sub diesel break 3 times from failed plastic. Never again. They are great for the assembly line but are bad news everywhere else.

I will only stress one thing NEVER mix brands of hose and hose ends. Once an end is on the hose anybody's adapter is fine. I untie that knot at least once a week. Russell makes quick release to an fittings with a threaded nut instead of plastic clips Earl's and Summit have some too but I like the Russell best. Russel makes them with the plastic clip but I pretend those don't exist and talk any customer out of them that wants them. I refuse to sell them ever.

As for corrosion Fluid Film on the fittings will keep rust/corrosion at bay pretty well. I'm in Ohio so I'm in the rust belt as well. I've been doing Fluid Film for a few years and it works well and doesn't smell awful. The wife has asthma and anything else sets it off.

Sorry to be so long winded but you'll get used to it.

Have fun and welcome to the forum!

 

[David Hopwood]

Both of my trucks are supercharged with stock lines and don't starve for fuel. I just don't see the point in it.

I don't like the QD design and I have everything I need and time to waste. Plus, I have another pump incase this don't work or I want to switch back.

Yes, I agree that the stock fuel system should supply enough fuel and I don't see much need for change. If I wanted forced induction, I would just start with a Diesel.

 

[David Hopwood]

David you got it right when you said PTFE hose. Using -8 for the feed is overkill (you can feed 1000 HP with a -6) if you own it it won't hurt a thing. I help people with automotive plumbing at my day job for over 20 years so been there done that. I had a customer burn his car to the ground from one of the stupid plastic clips breaking so I am allergic to the quick connect fittings. I had the heater hose on my 94 Sub diesel break 3 times from failed plastic. Never again. They are great for the assembly line but are bad news everywhere else.

I will only stress one thing NEVER mix brands of hose and hose ends. Once an end is on the hose anybody's adapter is fine. I untie that knot at least once a week. Russell makes quick release to an fittings with a threaded nut instead of plastic clips Earl's and Summit have some too but I like the Russell best. Russel makes them with the plastic clip but I pretend those don't exist and talk any customer out of them that wants them. I refuse to sell them ever.

As for corrosion Fluid Film on the fittings will keep rust/corrosion at bay pretty well. I'm in Ohio so I'm in the rust belt as well. I've been doing Fluid Film for a few years and it works well and doesn't smell awful. The wife has asthma and anything else sets it off.

Sorry to be so long winded but you'll get used to it.

Have fun and welcome to the forum!

Thank you Frank! I appreciate an answer from a man that does this as a profession (maybe not the modifying of fuel pump assemblies).
And I understand what you mean by not mixing hose and fittings between manufacturers. Many have different specs and can see a problem there.

I took out that same QD line for the heater to intake manifold. I also had that thing blow a few times.

The main idea is convenience. I myself can understand keeping things original on cars. If it isn't broken, don't fix it. I get it. But, if it is a bad design, maybe be proactive and change it to something better.


I also appreciate the welcome to the forums. I am glad to be here and learn. Happy New Year by the way!

 

[David Hopwood]

That pump is a pretty cheap pump..... $120 on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Airtex-E3963M-Fuel-Module-Assembly/dp/B000C1HKAU

By the way, I posted the wrong Part Number for that pump. It's the E3967M pump. Actually a bit cheaper than the other pump. I looked up the specifications on them both and see that the **67 one is the right one. RockAuto has the specs and you can see a difference in flow and pressure. Thank you for the link. I am surprised to see that you can get a lot of parts on Amazon for a real good price. I have even got great deals on open box parts that are really marked down. Even for GM or ACDelco parts.

 

[Frank Enstein]

Thank you Frank! I appreciate an answer from a man that does this as a profession (maybe not the modifying of fuel pump assemblies).
And I understand what you mean by not mixing hose and fittings between manufacturers. Many have different specs and can see a problem there.

I took out that same QD line for the heater to intake manifold. I also had that thing blow a few times.

The main idea is convenience. I myself can understand keeping things original on cars. If it isn't broken, don't fix it. I get it. But, if it is a bad design, maybe be proactive and change it to something better.


I also appreciate the welcome to the forums. I am glad to be here and learn. Happy New Year by the way!

Glad to help. Happy new Year to you as well.