There's lots of reasons why rear axle seals don't last:
bearings, seal running surfaces, seal construction, scored axle tubes (usually happens when removing old seals) etc, etc.
I've even seen seals installed backwards.
You must be registered for see images attach
24K is too low though.
Something's not quite up to *****.
I usually clean the seal running surface with a little crokus or emery cloth. If your fingernail hangs on a "mark", it's probably going to roach the seal quickly. Then clean it with brake clean and give it a mild touch of gear lube just so it slides through nicely. I also check the length of the axle shaft for nicks or burrs. I don't let the splined end touch the seal when installing.
The seal I install with the proper driver (or a tool I make to match the diameter) and touch the outside sealing surface at the axle tube with a thin coat of RTV before driving it home. If the surfaces are good, the RTV just gets pushed out. If the surfaces have an imperfection, the RTV fills the void.
I've never had a comeback for a leaking seal when following those few simple steps.
Bearings are a bit of a red herring if they're smooth and noiseless if you ask me, but always worth a check if you're in there anyways.
I've seen far more axle shafts require a seal running surface "shrink sleeve" than a wheel bearing. I have used "offset bearing kits" before that move the bearing and seal surface in (or out) on the axle shaft to "virgin" running surfaces. I don't know if those are even available for a corporate 10 bolt.
Seal running surface is the usual culprit of early wear out of axle seals in my experience.
You can check the axle vent but I've never seen that either. But it's free and easy, so why not?
I've also seen low oil in the diff burn out a seal, but it usually roaches the bearing along with it so you never know if it was heat in the seal/axle interface or the wheel bearing heat that did the dirty deed.