GMT400 - Community Scan Tool

[Caman96]

Just a momentary "brrrrrrr" then nothing

That may be the intended effect.

Right, whose to say how much “brrrrrrring” is correct, that almost makes sense the short burst.

 

[Illbedipped]

I received the OBD1 scanner and found a couple of things. Code 32 is showing up and getting EGR fault. I need to dig into the details deeper to understand what it's telling me.

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[Illbedipped]

You must be registered for see images attach

I only spent a few minutes to get acquainted with the setup. I'll report my findings In a few days.

 

[Jeepwalker]

Old school trick to bleed abs: If you can pump up and get good pedal, take said vehicle on large gravel parking lot (or 2 wheels on gravel edge of long driveway), smash and hold the brakes. Let the ABS activate and do it's thing. Perhaps repeat. Then re-bleed downstream air out of the system. Make sure the reservoir doesn't run low on fluid

 

[Jeepwalker]

It's worth putting your fingers under the EGR (feel the diaphragm) and have someone start the engine. Feel for it lifting up. Even so, routine maintenance is to remove the EGR and clean out any crud or build-up underneath it and in the port below. Use a shop vac to suck out any bits as you knock them free of the intake-side. After umpteen miles/years, they can get really crudded up. But easy to clean with a small screwdriver and put in service.

If the diaphragm isn't lifting up when the vehicle is started, ensure there's good vacuum at the hose. If it seems the diaghrapm is shot, replace the EGR with the SAME type (or compatible with the number on your EGR -- there are different types). Note: Most EGRs require 'constant' vacuum. There's a built-in bleed hole in most EGRs so just sucking on the hose or using a hand vac pump can't produce enough vacuum and may spoof you into thinking it's bad, when really air is going past the bleed hole. Hook it to another vacuum port on the vehicle and try applying vacuum that way ...to test.

 

[Caman96]

It's worth putting your fingers under the EGR (feel the diaphragm) and have someone start the engine. Feel for it lifting up. Even so, routine maintenance is to remove the EGR and clean out any crud or build-up underneath it and in the port below. Use a shop vac to suck out any bits as you knock them free of the intake-side. After umpteen miles/years, they can get really crudded up. But easy to clean with a small screwdriver and put in service.

If the diaphragm is shot, then replace the EGR. Note: There's a built-in bleed hole in most EGRs so just sucking on the hose or using a pump may spoof you into thinking it's bad. But bear in mind they require constant vacuum which you can't really do with a hand-held vacuum pump.

This^^^ as it should be done every 60k as part of maintenance. Did mine at about 75k, was still mostly clean but still a good idea. I used Berryman’s to clean it.

 

[WICruiser-97]

My name can be removed from the list.

I believe this is the latest version of the list with my name removed is:
Bugdewde
Illbedipped
Raycecar
N9nefingers/Caman96
Termite
HTownOBS

thanks

 

[Caman96]

I’m tapping out, @N9nefingers doesn’t need again, so after @Illbedipped this should be the latest:
Raycecar
*******
Termite
HTownOBS

 

[Illbedipped]

Thanks Carman96, I am working on two issues this weekend and hope to be complete by Monday. Brake bleed is first and my EGR problem is #2.

 

[Caman96]

Thanks Carman96, I am working on two issues this weekend and hope to be complete by Monday. Brake bleed is first and my EGR problem is #2.

What year truck you bleeding?