Fuel pump snap ring problems.

[Buick401]

Has anyone ever had a problem with snap ring that retains fuel pump? I'm not talking about the twist on. Mine popped off and pump was floating in tank.

 

[evilunclegrimace]

No.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

What vehicle, year, engine, etc?

 

[shorepatrol]

I had a hell of a time getting the snap ring on, scissor jack and 2x4 to get it to seat. I was scared lol

 

[454cid]

I just had to press down on mine a bit, but they changed in 98, I think. I can't imagine how it would fall into the tank.

 

[Ken K]

These are bottom referencing modular fuel pump assemblies. You have 3 springs pushing the pumps bucket to seat on the bottom while sitting on rubber feet, so there is going to be a strategy for the install.
While the dealer uses a spanner socket the fits the retaining ring, you don't have this tool, unless you befriend a tech with a coupler of beers and have him/her come over to your garage to put the ring in place. (As long as this is a factory setup)
Make sure the tanks seat is clean. Clean the pumps sealing area, install the o-ring, lubricate with some trans gel or vaseline. A little goes a long way. Get a helper. Locate the pumps ring so it will index into the tank. (Yes, it have a long tab on on side on the pump and the locking ring as well) Place in proper location, push down on pump assembly with helper. You position the ring in place, while pushing down on it, take a long blunt punch and tap on this ring and move from tab to tab in order to rotate the ring to seal.
I admit, it gets easier after you do 20 or so of these installs, but once you think it's holding, use a mirror-on-a-stick and focus a flashlight, then do a good visual inspection of every spot the ring locks into.
Older pumps are top referencing, lovingly called "Pump-on-a-stick". Yes, they had a lock ring too, but they did not fit back during the install. Next "2nd GEN" is your pump, with 3 long springs on metal tubes that disappear into a plastic bucket. These fight you when putting the lock ring on, plus, they now have 3 plastic tubes on top to get in your way. (Fuel pressure, Return, Vapor)
Now come the "3rd GEN" of fuel pumps. They have a 3 wire sensor that plugs into the pump to measure inches of H2O for EVAP operation to sense leaks. This only adds to the mess of parts on top that get in your way during install.
This changed the fuel sender from 0-90 ohms, now 40-250 ohms for better info to the PCM to perform EVAP test when fuel is between 80 full and 10% empty. Otherwise, this test aborts.
"4th GEN" pumps include a high pressure bleed, that is used in the bottom of the plastic bucket. It attaches to a brass venturi to draw fuel into the bucket which covers the pump, cools it and provides more fuel when low or turning to keep from add air to the fuel. This results in a misfire which is also a no no.
This is the best information I can give you as these are harder to install. Double check your ring to make sure it is fully seated, as the fuel cap can release pressure, but OBDII, increased the pressure from 1 PSI to 2 PSI for tank pressure release to the atmosphere which is a no no.

This is why gas cans sold a home improvement stores have double in price and the can's cap, looks like it need 3 hands to operate. As the people at CARB (California Air Research Board) does not want hydrocarbons to run free as they cause low atmosphere smog.

A lot of guys at shops across this nation, pull the bed off, then replace the pump. I am sure you did not want to hear that, but it's true. It gives them great room to pre-clean and replace the pump assembly and lock it in. Also, inspect your vehicle sides connector. Look for burn't, brown, twisted or dis-colored terminals. If so, Change the connector as this will result in a voltage drop and low fuel pressure.

Just give it the "Yankee" try and a re-due is required. Just don't bend anything metal or break anything plastic. Yep, you'll want that dealer spanner socket, singed out at the "Tool" room.

Also, Friendly reminder, as already asked, when start you thread, Please give us the year, make, model & engine so we have something to go on...all GMT400's are not the same!

ASE Master Tech since 1978 / Retired

 

[evilunclegrimace]

These are bottom referencing modular fuel pump assemblies. You have 3 springs pushing the pumps bucket to seat on the bottom while sitting on rubber feet, so there is going to be a strategy for the install.
While the dealer uses a spanner socket the fits the retaining ring, you don't have this tool, unless you befriend a tech with a coupler of beers and have him/her come over to your garage to put the ring in place. (As long as this is a factory setup)
Make sure the tanks seat is clean. Clean the pumps sealing area, install the o-ring, lubricate with some trans gel or vaseline. A little goes a long way. Get a helper. Locate the pumps ring so it will index into the tank. (Yes, it have a long tab on on side on the pump and the locking ring as well) Place in proper location, push down on pump assembly with helper. You position the ring in place, while pushing down on it, take a long blunt punch and tap on this ring and move from tab to tab in order to rotate the ring to seal.
I admit, it gets easier after you do 20 or so of these installs, but once you think it's holding, use a mirror-on-a-stick and focus a flashlight, then do a good visual inspection of every spot the ring locks into.
Older pumps are top referencing, lovingly called "Pump-on-a-stick". Yes, they had a lock ring too, but they did not fit back during the install. Next "2nd GEN" is your pump, with 3 long springs on metal tubes that disappear into a plastic bucket. These fight you when putting the lock ring on, plus, they now have 3 plastic tubes on top to get in your way. (Fuel pressure, Return, Vapor)
Now come the "3rd GEN" of fuel pumps. They have a 3 wire sensor that plugs into the pump to measure inches of H2O for EVAP operation to sense leaks. This only adds to the mess of parts on top that get in your way during install.
This changed the fuel sender from 0-90 ohms, now 40-250 ohms for better info to the PCM to perform EVAP test when fuel is between 80 full and 10% empty. Otherwise, this test aborts.
"4th GEN" pumps include a high pressure bleed, that is used in the bottom of the plastic bucket. It attaches to a brass venturi to draw fuel into the bucket which covers the pump, cools it and provides more fuel when low or turning to keep from add air to the fuel. This results in a misfire which is also a no no.
This is the best information I can give you as these are harder to install. Double check your ring to make sure it is fully seated, as the fuel cap can release pressure, but OBDII, increased the pressure from 1 PSI to 2 PSI for tank pressure release to the atmosphere which is a no no.

This is why gas cans sold a home improvement stores have double in price and the can's cap, looks like it need 3 hands to operate. As the people at CARB (California Air Research Board) does not want hydrocarbons to run free as they cause low atmosphere smog.

A lot of guys at shops across this nation, pull the bed off, then replace the pump. I am sure you did not want to hear that, but it's true. It gives them great room to pre-clean and replace the pump assembly and lock it in. Also, inspect your vehicle sides connector. Look for burn't, brown, twisted or dis-colored terminals. If so, Change the connector as this will result in a voltage drop and low fuel pressure.

Just give it the "Yankee" try and a re-due is required. Just don't bend anything metal or break anything plastic. Yep, you'll want that dealer spanner socket, singed out at the "Tool" room.

Also, Friendly reminder, as already asked, when start you thread, Please give us the year, make, model & engine so we have something to go on...all GMT400's are not the same!

ASE Master Tech since 1978 / Retired

His truck has an actual SNAP RING.

 

[Ken K]

Wow, Have never seen an actual snap ring to hold a GM fuel pump in place...ever!

What does RockAuto show in listing for fuel pump retainer?

What vehicle, year, engine, etc?

Still waiting for "This" answer!!!

Pump fell inside? Right tank? Right Pump? Not supposed to be Snap Ring?

 

[Ken K]

Maybe wrong parts. Perhaps. Shows 1982 - 2002 under GM C1500 5.0L

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[Frogprince]

I replaced my pump last fall and didn't get the gasket/snap ring in the right spot.

Filled it full and it popped the fuel pump up and the gasket fell into the tank. I ended up ordering a Spectre kit that came with a new gasket and ring.

To get it on I started it on one side, and moved notch to notch. I had to press down using a large screwdriver on top of the pump to get it down far enough to snap the next section in. Once I got 3/4 around the pump seated and the ring went on easily the last few.

There was a video where they recommended replacing it if it was bent, rusted or otherwise damaged. I didn't listen and when I removed it the second time it wasn't flat anymore.