Fuel Pump Connections

[SAATR]

Cut the flare off the ends of the tubes, remove the nut, and then use a tubing beading tool to make a safe, proper hose retention bead on the lines. Use fuel injection rated hose and clamps, and you're golden. Sell the tool on eBay or Craigslist and recoup some of your costs. Should still come out cheaper than the OE lines.

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[Donald Mitchell]

I know none of you believe this but a long time ago you could go to a good auto parts store and find all kinds of stuff like this and fix it yourself for mostly pocket change. I worked in one for a long time but what I find now is a mass lack of information on parts and on the cars that would lead the consumer to the correct parts to fix their vehicle.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

I know none of you believe this but a long time ago you could go to a good auto parts store and find all kinds of stuff like this and fix it yourself for mostly pocket change

I do, I'm almost 67 and have been playing with cars since I was 15, LOL.

 

[67GMC]

OK-Found these:
Dorman 800-079 Fuel Line Adapter for 5/16 In. Nylon Hose to M14-1.5 Female Thread, Pack of 2
Dorman 800-078 Fuel Line Adapter for 3/8 In. Nylon Hose to M16-1.5 Female Thread, Pack of 2

I've ordered them. Hopefully this will clean things up a little. It will still be a hose clamp to the rubber line but it will be less likely to leak I think.

I'm only 54 but I remember at least being able to find fittings on the shelf and be able to cobble stuff together. Now, if you don't want the $100 part, they aren't too interested in helping with O-rings, fittings etc. Some shops will pull out the o-ring box for you and let you buy 1 or 2. Not all. Also, why do they sell 3 flare nuts in a pack instead of 10 or more so you're not wasting your time and all that useless packaging!!

Arrgh.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

they aren't too interested in helping with O-rings, fittings etc

Try a hydraulic and/or tractor supply store, they have all kinds of good stuff.

 

[Schurkey]

Wander into a decent Treasure Yard, grab the OEM plumbing from a similar truck. I bet you get it for ~$20.

Install a fresh fuel filter.

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

As someone in their early 50s who grew up in a family owned auto parts store, I can honestly say that parts houses aren't like they used to be! When the big national chains were coming into southeast Texas in the mid 80s, it changed the status quo, in most cases not for the better. The indie shops couldn't compete on price, so people would go to the chains for everything-- until they had something the counter jockey couldn't figure out. Then guess who they need? And the general public has no idea that their local indie parts store can't survive on only the oddball stuff. The last time we were going to relocate the store, we were very seriously considering becoming a NAPA store. But I don't think we could raise the buy in, and that was the end of it.
That's why I cultivated my favorite parts clerk at the local o'Reilly store ( what a local chain, Charlie's Hi-Lo evolved into).

 

[67GMC]

I found a company in Canada that's making them. Fineline Tube Products (https://www.finelinetubeproducts.com/). Not cheap though but they carry from the TBI to the filter, Filter to tank, tank to filter etc.

 

[67GMC]

Still wrestling with this truck. Every brake line was rusted and breaking so did them all (flex lines too). I dropped the tank because for each gallon I put in, I had a gallon on the driveway over a few days. Dropped the tank, bought a southern tank (which turned out to be 34 gallons instead of 22 gallons) and pulled the lines off the pump. Then, while I'm trying to get the brake lines nice and neat, I break all the plastic clips but this is also showing that the fuel lines are rotted through at about each clip. So, I pull that all out up to two braided lines from the TBI.
Then more fun, the braided line is fused to the steel line nut. Really on there. Can't put a torch on it (might blow up truck). So, I think I'll pull the lines off the TBI. Some bright guy has a clamp mounted on the back of the engine that keeps those braided lines very snug. So snug, you can't pull the braided lines with connectors through. Also, my hands can barely feel the nut on the bracket. After literally 2 hours of turning a wrench 10 degrees at a time, I get the bracket off and release the braided lines. I got the nut off the braided line (return side) using PB blaster and vice grips.
So, my question: the 5/16" inverted flare nut seems to fit into the braided line but goes in really far. Is this the right fitting for this kind of line or would be it be a metric fitting like on the fuel pump lines? Were the braided lines from the TBI stock or were they steel lines? Don't have much history on this truck. Was sitting in a farm field for too many years just rusting from the bottom up.

 

[Schurkey]

My '88 has the braided OEM hoses from the TBI fittings down to the fuel filter area. Yes, they're inconveniently secured by a loop attached by a nut and stud on one of the bellhousing bolts. There's other brackets down below.

The ends of the supply hose are "special", at least the way I remember them. The steel tube is formed for an O-ring seal, with a flare nut on the back side to hold compression on the O-ring. I had to make a fuel supply tube for my '97; the "Universal" hydraulic flaring kit from Mastercool has the correct dies to form the flange in the correct place.

I don't much remember the return hose fittings. I think they're the same deal as the supply side, but in a smaller tube size, smaller O-rings, and smaller flare nut.