Fixing the Truck to Death – time to cut my losses?

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PlatonicSolid

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89 GMC C3500 454 7.4L
The leaking heater core a year ago was the beginning of the end as the truck was driven with little coolant. Temp gage did not indicate a problem.
I flushed the system when I replaced the heater core and it seemed to run OK. It doesn’t get used much as it’s primarily a dump run – Home Depo run – pick up a ton of gravel vehicle. Maybe 1K miles per year.
Last September it started to stall at idle when warmed up. After my son borrowed it to pick up a ton of gravel it was stalling at idle constantly. To the point that I had to put one foot on the gas and the other on the brakes at every stop. On the highway it felt like it had a governor on it. I limped it home and it hasn’t left the driveway since.

It’s also leaking oil from somewhere and I saw white smoke coming from the left exhaust flange leak at startup.

The more I work in it, the worse it gets. It currently only starts and runs (erratically) when the engine is cold. Here’s a video: Link

What I’ve done so far:
• Replaced the alternator (actually took 4 alternators from Advance Auto before I got one that didn't fall apart. I now carry a spare in the truck at all times)
• Replaced transmission pan gasket + filter + fluid
• Replaced vacuum lines
• Replaced Throttle body with rebuilt + TPS + IAC
• Replaced gas tank and fuel pump
• Replaced distributor, coil, plugs and wires
• Changed oil and filter
• Fixed exhaust manifold flange leak by filling it with JB weld muffler cement (attempt to do a proper fix will break the manifold flange studs which leads to bigger projects than I want to tackle outside in the cold)
• Replaced O2 sensor
• Replaced coolant temp sensor
• Replaced left valve cover gasket (there was nothing wrong with it = not the oil leak source)
• Ran “Steel Seal” through the coolant system which solved the white smoke at startup problem. This process involved thoroughly flushing the cooling system yet again.

No visible coolant in oil. No visible oil in coolant.
Oil pressure gauge in this truck has always read very high = the gauge is always near max reading.
Only thing I can think of now is head gasket cylinder to cylinder breach. My next plan is to do a compression test to see if that tells me anything.

At this point it feels like I’m fixing the truck to death. Probably time to cut my losses as the truck is not worth installing another rebuilt engine in it. That would lead me down the path of replacing the entire exhaust system, all rubber bushings, all suspension components, …
 
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scott2093

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you can't expect to get timing where it should be like that ...lol

Unfortunately new parts don't mean anything these days.. Got any codes?

Sounds pretty good to me....apart from that tapping...
 
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definitely do a compression check. that will let you make a better decision. i went too far with parts for my 92 k3500 before i did the compression check. i had a broken ring. truck was not used much and somehow the ring froze and snapped. if compression good then check all of your grounds. I had a fuel pump ground making no contact, its on the firewall and also an ignition switch that was worn and send low volts to the ecm and gauges. when you are under volted it wont idle because the reference volts from the sensors are out of spec. the iac will surge.
 
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Fuel pump ground on the firewall? I just replaced the fuel pump and the ground is connected to the frame.
that might be the ground for the pickup assembly. the pump ground runs with the power to the relay and an in line fuse and a bolt on the firewall at least on the early model next to the power junction bar.
 

Schurkey

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No flashy light codes and no fancy tester that I'm not sure I'd know how to read if I had one.
If you're not getting "Code 12", there's something wrong.

If you don't have and can't use a scan tool, you'll do well to take it to someone who does, and can.

Do the 89s have an ALDL you can jump to read the code flashes?
Of course.
 

PlatonicSolid

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If you're not getting "Code 12", there's something wrong.
Do the 89s have an ALDL you can jump to read the code flashes? Is that what you mean? You didn't have any?

Yes, I get code 12, but that's the only code I get.

If you don't have and can't use a scan tool, you'll do well to take it to someone who does, and can.

I'll do the compression test first. If that tests OK I'll have to figure out how to gain access to an OBD1 scan tool and an experienced human. It's not like I can drive this thing anywhere - it would have to be towed. I've never had a mechanic make a house call, but I'm sure there's a price that could make that happen.

that might be the ground for the pickup assembly. the pump ground runs with the power to the relay and an in line fuse and a bolt on the firewall at least on the early model next to the power junction bar.

I'll dig into the manual to see if they clearly identify what's what with all those firewall wires.
 

PlatonicSolid

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Just finished doing the compression test. Results = all cylinders between 145 and 155. So no negative results there. Half hoping to get some negative result so I could justify calling it quits on this thing.
 
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