Engine swap

[Erik the Awful]

If I were spending the money:

Vortec Truck & SUV 1996-2000 - GM SB Compatible 383 c.i. Engine - Long Block

BluePrint Engines 50 state legal 383 c.i. small block GM style stroker crate engine kit for 1996 - 2000 Chevy pick ups and SUV's. Includes 30 month / 50,000 warranty & BPE Dyno Promise. Part #: BP38350CT1

blueprintengines.com

But if I were going to buy a crate engine, I'd probably save my money longer and go stupid.

GM SB Compatible 454 c.i. ProSeries Engine - 563 HP - Long Block

BluePrint Engines 454 c.i. small block GM style proseries stroker crate engine - longblock. Includes 30 month / 50,000 warranty & BPE Dyno Promise. Part #: PS4541CT

blueprintengines.com

 

[92Landyacht]

In my humble opinion, I'd go crate engine and do the install myself. You get an engine that has a warranty. You can pick the engine that best suits your need. you won't need to do anything other than pull the old engine, install the new one and get a tune as needed. Much lower risk and stress in the long run.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

You get an engine that has a warranty.

Unfortunately most crate engine manufacturers require an approved shop do the installation or their warranty is either reduced or voided. Read the fine print 1st.

 

[92Landyacht]

Most will warranty the

Unfortunately most crate engine manufacturers require an approved shop do the installation or their warranty is either reduced or voided. Read the fine print 1st.

Most will warranty the engine but not any labor even if self-installed. Agreed though that you really must look at the warranty details.

One thing for certain... If you do the rebuild yourself, then the warranty is whatever you make it.

 

[Erik the Awful]

You can home-build a motor cheaper than a crate motor, but make one mistake on assembly and a new gasket set will set you back the price difference.

Also, they can't void your warranty just because you didn't use their approved shop. Read up on the Moss-Magnusson Warranty Act. On the other hand, you need to ensure you're hiring a good shop to professionally install your motor. If you or your buddy Billy-Bob dork up the installation, own it.

 

[dyates99]

In my humble opinion, I'd go crate engine and do the install myself. You get an engine that has a warranty. You can pick the engine that best suits your need. you won't need to do anything other than pull the old engine, install the new one and get a tune as needed. Much lower risk and stress in the long run.

That is exactly my thinking.

 

[dyates99]

I don’t think I’ll be doing a rebuild myself. Right now I’m trying to find a good deal on a motor to buy that comes with a good set of heads that will handle a mild cam and find a good intake manifold. I’d like to do the mpfi over the carburetor for simplicity.

 

[kennythewelder]

I don’t think I’ll be doing a rebuild myself. Right now I’m trying to find a good deal on a motor to buy that comes with a good set of heads that will handle a mild cam and find a good intake manifold. I’d like to do the mpfi over the carburetor for simplicity.

Probably you most bang for the buck, is a LS swap. There is so much support out there for this swap. If you do your research, you can figure out just where you want your HP and torque. There are a bunch of the 5.3L in most junk yards. I have seen these swaps and these engines make 400 to 500 plus HP.

 

[dyates99]

Probably you most bang for the buck, is a LS swap. There is so much support out there for this swap. If you do your research, you can figure out just where you want your HP and torque. There are a bunch of the 5.3L in most junk yards. I have seen these swaps and these engines make 400 to 500 plus HP.

I think I’ll save that for my next build. Lol keep it simple for my first time motor swap

 

[BPR Speed]

I'd agree with the others here. A crate engine will be your best bet to swap in and go for it's sheer simplicity. Just be sure to look over your cooling system and flush your heater core, power steering pump and clean up the engine bay a bit before installing the crate engine. You can install the GM hot cam in the L31 350 SBC if you go that crate engine route, but you'll need the crane cams 747-16 valve spring retainers and keepers so that it will clear the vortec head valve guides. You can run that cam as it's a roller cam if your crate motor is a roller block but be sure to understand that if you run the stock MPFI injectors and black box PCM you WILL need a tune to get the truck to run well not to include a newer style Delphi MPFI upgrade. Black Bear performance can send you some materials to test drive your truck on so they can capture a data log on what the truck will need to get it running as good as possible. You then send them your black PCM, they upload the file and you're set for about $500 (prices may vary). If you choose to run a bigger cam in the end but not run a gm hot cam just be sure when you buy your crate engine that the crate engine will have heads that can run the size cam in lift that you're interested in and that you choose a cam that will match the blocks needs (hydraulic flat tappet or hydraulic roller cam). If you don't know what you're looking for will all the cam shaft and block lingo just call the manufacturer of the engine you're interested in and let them know what you drive, HP goals, the transmission you'll run, axel gear ratios, tire size and current engine (350 SBC L31). They can recommend a engine with that info and give you a price range on a direct swap or it's carbureted variant. I would expect to use up all of your $6k though with either endeavor.

I would also consider an LS swap over all other options as I've done a few in the GMT400 platforms and it's hand down my biggest bang for the buck and fuel mileage build for my customers. 350 HP with 24 MPG highway 16 city in a 96' C1500 on 22'' wheels. Truck is running these numbers with a rebuilt 03' LM7 5.3L, LS1 cam, 4l60e with a corvette servo shift kit and 3.73 gears. I know I'm on here always preaching the LS swap game but the aftermarket and big power lane is easy with the LS platform. Regardless, as many will say if you want to tow or keep torque numbers in the 1800-4500 rpm range, keep with the 350 SBC to get the truck the OOMF it needs to get moving quickly. Just my 2 cents on the conversation so far.