Engine swap

[dyates99]

Just picked up a very clean 98 gmc z71 with vortec 5.7 for dirt cheap. Motor has some issues so I’m looking to do a motor swap. I do daily drive a 97 Chevy k1500 so I’m pretty familiar with these trucks. I’d like to get this one pretty souped up but nothing too crazy. Looking for ideas on engines. Kinda thinking another 350 cammed and upgraded fuel injection. Open to ideas on LS swap or 383. Just not sure about extra work for the different motor. Any input here would be greatly appreciated!

Alright guys I’m looking to get the best bang for my buck, while also keeping simplicity in mind. Which route would be better in terms of simplicity and most horses for my moneys. Turn key motor from https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/19420880.html

Or a block from summit or autozone, with lt4 hot cam, upgraded intake, long tube headers??

 

[0xDEADBEEF]

Most bang for buck is kind of vague. Are you drag racing, off roading, daily driving?

 

[dyates99]

Most bang for buck is kind of vague. Are you drag racing, off roading, daily driving?

it will just be a ride around truck. Wouldn’t have to be a daily as I have another Chevy k1500 that I currently daily. Just want something that turns heads. Looking for more power than stock and a nice deep sound with some lope

 

[Schurkey]

it will just be a ride around truck. Wouldn’t have to be a daily as I have another Chevy k1500 that I currently daily. Just want something that turns heads. Looking for more power than stock and a nice deep sound with some lope

You don't need more power for a "ride around truck". You absolutely do not want "lope" if you intend to keep the engine computer-controlled; or have any emissions testing, or give a shiit about clean air. "Lope" has the potential to kill the catalyst. It's a sign of a poorly-tuned engine.

 

[Erik the Awful]

What I would do for a "ride around" motor:
Have the block and heads vatted and magnafluxed - there's a good chance the heads have cracks. If you need to replace a head, it's worth considering a junkyard head. If you need to replace both, make the jump to aftermarket heads. Rebuild the bottom end with fresh bearings and rings, but keep the stock rods and pistons. Lightly hone the cylinders just to clean them up. Call a cam company and tell them you want a cam that sounds nice and plays well with the factory injection. Do some mild cleanup porting on the heads. Put fresh valvesprings and valve seals in the heads, but clean up and reuse the stock valves. Clean and reuse the factory roller lifters and pushrods. I'd reuse the factory rockers. If you need more lift, it's best just to ask the cam company about a bigger cam - big cams cost the same as small cams. Put long tube headers on it, dual 2.5" exhaust with a crossover, a pair of cats, and a pair of Cherry Bomb Salute mufflers. Invest in earplugs. Even if you have to replace the heads, you're in under two grand.

 

[dyates99]

What I would do for a "ride around" motor:
Have the block and heads vatted and magnafluxed - there's a good chance the heads have cracks. If you need to replace a head, it's worth considering a junkyard head. If you need to replace both, make the jump to aftermarket heads. Rebuild the bottom end with fresh bearings and rings, but keep the stock rods and pistons. Lightly hone the cylinders just to clean them up. Call a cam company and tell them you want a cam that sounds nice and plays well with the factory injection. Do some mild cleanup porting on the heads. Put fresh valvesprings and valve seals in the heads, but clean up and reuse the stock valves. Clean and reuse the factory roller lifters and pushrods. I'd reuse the factory rockers. If you need more lift, it's best just to ask the cam company about a bigger cam - big cams cost the same as small cams. Put long tube headers on it, dual 2.5" exhaust with a crossover, a pair of cats, and a pair of Cherry Bomb Salute mufflers. Invest in earplugs. Even if you have to replace the heads, you're in under two grand.

Thanks for the reply! I plan on yanking out the old 5.7 and starting fresh. I’d like to do a new block, new heads, cam, intake, upgraded fuel injection to mpfi, long tube headers and all new exhaust. Just not sure where to start. Like what cam will work with what heads. Also wondering if I’ll need to upgrade the torque converter for all this?

 

[Erik the Awful]

Why a new block? The original blocks are just fine, and rarely even need an overbore. Spend $100 to get it vatted and magnafluxed and build it. A few months ago you could get a Summit-branded refreshened 1-piece rear main, 4 bolt main, roller cam ready TBI block for $700, but those are gone now. You're looking at $2000 for a correct 1-piece rear main seal block.

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[Devon 11]

You will need a tune as well if you upgrade anything really to be safe and for my 383 I reused the block I had in the truck. As long as the block is still fine you’re better off reusing it and saving the money on something else worth more power or whatever lol.

 

[dyates99]

Why a new block? The original blocks are just fine, and rarely even need an overbore. Spend $100 to get it vatted and magnafluxed and build it. A few months ago you could get a Summit-branded refreshened 1-piece rear main, 4 bolt main, roller cam ready TBI block for $700, but those are gone now. You're looking at $2000 for a correct 1-piece rear main seal block.

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What would I have to do to get it vatted and magnafluxed? Not familiar with those terms. I was trying to stay away from doing any serious internal work. Was looking to get something with fresh pistons, rings, and all that.

 

[kennythewelder]

What would I have to do to get it vatted and magnafluxed? Not familiar with those terms. I was trying to stay away from doing any serious internal work. Was looking to get something with fresh pistons, rings, and all that.

Vatted, is dipped in a vat of fluid that will clean up, and remove all of the old paint, dirt, oil, and grease. Magnaflux is a method of checking for cracks.