jps4jeep
I'm Awesome
More progress today and a couple set backs, I didn't snap too many pics but here is what I have.
I got the axle in for the last time, got it centered and adjusted all the links to dial inthe caster and I did a driveway allignment with about 1/8 toe out. got the springs in and sitting on its own weight.
I also got the shocks in and ran into a bit of an issue but first, the rev. mount
I knew during mock up that the shocks were going to be close to the frame, I cycled the suspension and got about 3/4" from full bump and 2" from full droop and the shock would contact the frame. It was very slight and probably would never contact during normal driving but still
Hard to see in the pic, but the body of the shock is touching the frame.
So didn't want to reinvent the wheel so I just made some "extension" mounts for the current shocks and then lined them up, moev the shock body out about 1.25" and plug welded them into place, quick and dirty.
Hard to see, but plenty of space during the entire cycle on both sides.
I also started to cut out parts of the factory front cross member and putting the steering back together.
But the best thing, I measured from center to center for the front driveshaft at full bump and I got 32 7/8" the factory fromt drive shaft, full compression is 32 1/2" so I won't have to shorted the factory shaft as I mentioned before, factory shaft will work for me. That said, I did stretch the front axle forward about 2" so I am not sure of this would work for a leaf sprung SAS.
I got the axle in for the last time, got it centered and adjusted all the links to dial inthe caster and I did a driveway allignment with about 1/8 toe out. got the springs in and sitting on its own weight.
I also got the shocks in and ran into a bit of an issue but first, the rev. mount
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
I knew during mock up that the shocks were going to be close to the frame, I cycled the suspension and got about 3/4" from full bump and 2" from full droop and the shock would contact the frame. It was very slight and probably would never contact during normal driving but still
Hard to see in the pic, but the body of the shock is touching the frame.
You must be registered for see images attach
So didn't want to reinvent the wheel so I just made some "extension" mounts for the current shocks and then lined them up, moev the shock body out about 1.25" and plug welded them into place, quick and dirty.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Hard to see, but plenty of space during the entire cycle on both sides.
I also started to cut out parts of the factory front cross member and putting the steering back together.
But the best thing, I measured from center to center for the front driveshaft at full bump and I got 32 7/8" the factory fromt drive shaft, full compression is 32 1/2" so I won't have to shorted the factory shaft as I mentioned before, factory shaft will work for me. That said, I did stretch the front axle forward about 2" so I am not sure of this would work for a leaf sprung SAS.