Dual purpose crap hauler

[jps4jeep]

More progress today and a couple set backs, I didn't snap too many pics but here is what I have.

I got the axle in for the last time, got it centered and adjusted all the links to dial inthe caster and I did a driveway allignment with about 1/8 toe out. got the springs in and sitting on its own weight.

I also got the shocks in and ran into a bit of an issue but first, the rev. mount

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I knew during mock up that the shocks were going to be close to the frame, I cycled the suspension and got about 3/4" from full bump and 2" from full droop and the shock would contact the frame. It was very slight and probably would never contact during normal driving but still

Hard to see in the pic, but the body of the shock is touching the frame.

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So didn't want to reinvent the wheel so I just made some "extension" mounts for the current shocks and then lined them up, moev the shock body out about 1.25" and plug welded them into place, quick and dirty.

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Hard to see, but plenty of space during the entire cycle on both sides.

I also started to cut out parts of the factory front cross member and putting the steering back together.

But the best thing, I measured from center to center for the front driveshaft at full bump and I got 32 7/8" the factory fromt drive shaft, full compression is 32 1/2" so I won't have to shorted the factory shaft as I mentioned before, factory shaft will work for me. That said, I did stretch the front axle forward about 2" so I am not sure of this would work for a leaf sprung SAS.

 

[silver98z71]

You may want to rethink the 1/8" toe out. You'll like it better between 1/16" and 1/8" toe in.

 

[jps4jeep]

Thanks will do! I couldn't remember if it was toe out or toe in, it's easily enough fixed, I haven't tighten down the jam nuts yet. I just need to get it to the allignment shop after I'm done.

 

[jps4jeep]

Been a while since I updated this. I am copy/pasting these last couple updates from another forum, so if something seams off or the post says "today", I appologize it was really several weeks ago.

I ended up selling ym Cummins, got pretty much what I paid for it, plus I kept the nv4500 so It's not a complete wash. I took that money and reinvested into some parts for this truck.

Cut out portion of the factory cross member to clear the tie rod. Going to box it in for now, might remove and rebuild down the road.

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Got all the exhaust out, manifolds back. Installed dynomax performance stainless steel cats (cheaper than stock steel units)

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I ordered a cat back exhaust, should be in this week

 

[jps4jeep]

Rebuilt hubs, with new calipers. Waiting for a coil of nickle copper brakeline to come in, then button up the front. I reused all the studs, some needed the threads cleaned up.

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Sitting on its own weight. Sits about 3/4" higher in the front. I plan on making a plate style front bumper, so should level out, if not I have some adjustability in the ride height in .5" increments to fine tune it

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[jps4jeep]

So I got the tires on and tried to turn lock to lock and I couldn't, tires were hitting the links. I knew it was gonna be close and the contact was slight, but with new tires with more tread, the contact would be more. I looked into 2" spacers but that was a no go. Didn't want to spend the money and I prefer the tires tucked under the truck as much as I can to maintain a stockish look. So I decided to move the links in a couple inches.

 

[jps4jeep]

Tires from treadwright showed up two weeks ago and I am pretty impressed. When I ordered tham I was thinking of the re-caps of yesteryear where you see the old tires sidewall, but the tread cap is new. These tires are brand new including the sidewall all the way to the bead. Here is the only pic I got.

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Got the links moved inward a couple inches, started with the end caps off a factroy yj bumper, it's 1/4 steel so plenty strong.

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Cut it in half

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Cut the outer half of the old mount off

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[jps4jeep]

I re-used half the frame end mount and built a new inner mount. They will not be connected to retain the ability to remove the tranny cross member. I might down the road tie them together somehow and maintain the servicability, but for now not a big deal.

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[jps4jeep]

And the axle end. Used my friends Tony's newly up and running torchmate to make some radius arm brackets that are identical (sort of) to the balistic mounts.

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Baaamm! New shock mounts and done.

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Ended up re-using parts of the old radius arms to make the shock mounts and gussets, not a total waste.

 

[jps4jeep]

I was waiting for my 10mm flanged lock nuts to come in for the exhaust manifolds, got those on and tightened up. The cat back exhaust is on. I went with a flowmaster thunder series or something like that.

One of the stock ford locking hubs that came off the truck was junk, the internal pressure spring had broke. I found a replacement but the cost from the dealer was stupid high for just a pressure spring. So I had some cash left over from selling the cummins that I treated myself to some brand new premium warn hubs. I run these on my crawler so for a daily driver, they will be over kill, but life time warranty might be handy.

I also routed my brakelines, which I remembered to take pictures. Started with a coil of nickle copper 3/16 line. Stripped out the factory line from the ABS module and between hand bending and tube bending, got the line pretty much where it needs to be. I am re-using as many factory fittings as possible just to make life easier.

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I highly recomend the eastwood flare tool. Way easier and quicker than a traditional double flare set.

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I am using the stock 78 brake hose, to adequately clear the coil spring, I had to put an ever so slight bend in the hard portion of the line. On the frame end, I re-used a threaded hole, I forget what it was originally intended for, but this works for me. I also have to modify the original bracket that was on top of the frame, but will work great.

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Cycled the suspension and lock to lock, plenty of clearance.

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