Drop in crate to replace 350TBI

[tsr2185]

I use my 91 k1500 SCSB every 3 weeks for a 4 hour drive to and from work. When Im home, i use it for beer runs/grocery runs/etc. I love tinkering with it and I know inevitably the engine will give out (275 k on body, 115k on GM goodwrench in 2005) Maybe 1 month from now, or ten years who knows. I plan to keep it until my son is ready to drive in another 10= years or so. I would probably be comfortable with spending 3-4k$ on a ready to go drop in crate motor. I dont want to do any programming, but I am willing to swap out the TBI to another FI if i dont have to tune it.

Ive never done a engine swap, but my father in law is a career mechanic who will help me.

My question is, which would be the best crate motor in your opinion that is ready to drop in, using my existing accessories or minimal modifications. I also want to keep the 700r4. I have a rebuild shop nearby than can overhaul it when that eventually goes aswell.

Links would be super helpful.

thanks

 

[Scooterwrench]

Runs good? Don't smoke? Got oil pressure?
If you can check off all three then just maintain it and run it. There is no reason for a well maintained engine to not make 500,000 miles.

 

[Komet]

Any change to a fuel injected engine requires a tune. Assuming you are suddenly ok with that, the 700r4 won't like the increase in power so that will need to be upgraded as well. The HT383 is probably the power level you're looking for. It'll be triple your anticipated budget by the time you turn the key.

 

[Schurkey]

91 k1500

115k on GM goodwrench in 2005)

Get another Goodwrench TBI replacement engine?

I would probably be comfortable with spending 3-4k$ on a ready to go drop in crate motor.

Budget higher. $3K is unlikely to be enough. $4K might be, depending on how your accessories and incidentals are--distributor, radiator, belt, tensioner, hoses, everything driven by the serpentine belt, etc.

My question is, which would be the best crate motor in your opinion that is ready to drop in, using my existing accessories or minimal modifications. I also want to keep the 700r4.

The Genuine GM TBI replacement engine (new) was part number 12568758 - 5.7L 350CID (LO5-K) 1987-1995 Chevy & GMC Full Size Trucks & "G"Van-Up to 7,200 GVW. Discontinued, according to Jegs.
www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Performance/809/12681430/10002/-1

Chevrolet Performance 12681430: GM Goodwrench 350 Cast Iron Long Block Truck Engine - JEGS

GM Goodwrench 1987-95 350 Truck Engine

www.jegs.com

When I wanted a "drop-in" crate engine, I bought the service replacement engine 12513151 - 5.7l (L05)1991-1993 Chevy Caprice (Exc. 9C1 Police Package), 1991-1993 BuickRoadmaster, 1991-1993 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham. Slightly higher compression, roller cam/lifters. I KNOW that this one was discontinued AGES ago. And a damn shame. I got ~18 years out of mine, zero tuning, before the head gasket popped. Reliable as a stone, until the fatal failure. Point is, you could buy a "rebuilt" '91--'93 Caprice/Roadmaster/Fleetwood engine and get most of the "good stuff" although I'd be really wary of the piston compression height. Most aftermarket "replacement" pistons have been sabotaged with .010 to .020 lower compression height, killing quench/squish, and reducing compression ratio.

 

[rockR67]

And a damn shame. I got ~18 years out of mine, zero tuning, before the head gasket popped. Reliable as a stone, until the fatal failure. Point is, you could buy a "rebuilt" '91--'93 Caprice/Roadmaster/Fleetwood engine and get most of the "good stuff" although I'd be really wary of the compression height.

I’ve got a 93 Roadmaster Wagon with that under the hood, a nice version of the LO5 for sure. Not as quick as the LT1s that came after it, but handles the huge wagon very nicely. Great engine, and I’m not happy that GM discontinued it- ages ago as was said. Probably worth rebuilding when the time comes.

 

[0xDEADBEEF]

Kinda in the same boat, I've decided on a 383 (377) from BluePrint Engines.

 

[98 Nitro]

Your TBI crate could run just fine for another 100k or more, and you could upgrade it some.
GM has TBI and Vortec 350 Goodwrench engines again, but at 2.5x the price they use to be @$4600 or a bare block for just over $2000.

 

[Scooterwrench]

I was just on the Jegs site and they do offer a 87-95 crate engine.
What am I missing?

I see now. Not in stock till November. I reckon put your order in now if you want one.

 

[DeCaff2007]

I’ve got a 93 Roadmaster Wagon with that under the hood, a nice version of the LO5 for sure. Not as quick as the LT1s that came after it, but handles the huge wagon very nicely. Great engine, and I’m not happy that GM discontinued it- ages ago as was said. Probably worth rebuilding when the time comes.

I'm sorry, but that's not a huge wagon.

Let me refer to my Wife's former 84 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser. Now that's a huge wagon lol. Damn thing had a 19' wheelbase with an anemic 307ci/700R4. We swapped in an Olds 350 (kept the 700R4) and that Fker RAN!!

Sorry, didn't mean to thread hijack....

To the OP, I agree with the masses here. Why drop in a replacement if your current setup is running fine?

 

[Moofus02]

I've swapped a few tbi 350's. Bad radiator and cracked a head pulling a trailer. A few that jumped time and it was just as easy to swap in another used one and 2 that blew a head gasket, I hate gm extended life coolant and the last blew a head gasket between 2 cylinders and trashed the block and head. 1 Vortex that was rolled over in a snow storm we pushed the roof up and it spun a rod on maiden trip probably got hurt upside down. If it runs good and doesn't use oil or coolant i wouldn't worry. Most of my trucks have 300k on them and still run good. I've got a 5.7 vortec with 420 on it when I pulled it to scrap the van. At 416k I pulled the pan, had a hole rusted in it and did bearings seals timing chain and intake gaskets and oil pump. Looked like new inside just did the rest out of guilt. Expediting we were getting 500 to 550k before they died. Usually it was bearings getting thin and got a little coolant in oil and grabbed a bearing. With regular maintenance I wouldn't be afraid of 400k miles