Dorman hinge pins are garbage.

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Any tips or tricks to replacing the bushings on your own. I have a small door holder I bought from a guy that you can put on a jack...don't know about doing them without someone holding the door.
 

Jglew82

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Any tips or tricks to replacing the bushings on your own. I have a small door holder I bought from a guy that you can put on a jack...don't know about doing them without someone holding the door.

Do you have or know anyone with access to an engine hoist? I did mine with one and a ratchet strap.
 

kennythewelder

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Do you have or know anyone with access to an engine hoist? I did mine with one and a ratchet strap.
I did mine with an overhead crane at work. That BS of having you wife balance it on a jack while you replace the pins, is not a good idea. These doors are not easy to balance, and they are heavy. About 80 LBS each.
 

Jglew82

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I did mine with an overhead crane at work. That BS of having you wife balance it on a jack while you replace the pins, is not a good idea. These doors are not easy to balance, and they are heavy. About 80 LBS each.

For real though, not fun to balance at all. Actually found a pic of my fuckery from a few years ago.

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alpinecrick

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I keep reading threads about this, and I didn't see anybody give feedback on the aluminum pins with grease fittings. I just installed them, seem to be working fine.

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Never have seen nor heard of those. Got a link?
 

alpinecrick

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To reiterate and sound like the proverbial broken record, no bushing made of kryptonite by Bavarian Elves in the zero gravity of deep space will address the issue if the uppermost hole in the uppermost hinge is wallowed out. This is the hole where there is a tight interference fit.
Oh, the door will be fine for a month or even six, but it'll sag sooner than later. Guys who are declaring success immediately after installing new pins/bushings are being premature.......

Over the past 7-8 years I have tried most of the popular bushings on the drivers side of my 96, including GM bushings, to no avail. When I spot welded the top pin to the top hole it has--so far--been a long term fix (that's a caveat in case no one noticed).

I have a couple sets of over sized bushings (National brand, I think), but I'm glad I didn't go through the agony of boring out the pin holes to install them because it appears it would have been another futile effort on my part to resolve the problem.

I've replaced the pins, bushings, and/or roller pins on all four doors of my 96 and 97 K1500's (on the drivers side of my 96, at least 4 times, maybe five), I may not be an expert but I've got experience to go along with the learning curve......
 

Dropped88

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Its not just the very top hole on top hinge its also the very bottom hole in bottom hinge.

I welded egg part on mine and reshaped with a small rasp bit. Reused the old pins and bushings.

And all the sag is gone
 

alpinecrick

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Its not just the very top hole on top hinge its also the very bottom hole in bottom hinge.

And I have thought about that. So far everybody I know who has spot welded the top haven't had problems. But spot welding the bottom pin might be an even longer term solution.

If you rasped the new part of the hole it can't be round, and ultimately MIGHT have the same problem mid-term.
 

Dropped88

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It might not be perfect but the bit I used on a mini drill cuts very little metal at a time. So cut a little, test fit, repeat until the pin would fit with a moderate tap with a hammer

Door alignment is great and shuts with one finger
 
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