Door Handle and Door Pin Replacement

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Chris.G.Jr.

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i know this is a stupid question, but would there be any plus or negative thing about using a bolt instead of the hinge pin, and just put a nut on the other end to hold it on? wasnt sure if that would do the same purpose as a hinge pin, maybe itd work better if you got the right size and not have to use bushings?



STUPID QUESTION I KNOW

sidenote i got the hingepin and bushing kits from rockauto (dorman products brand) and im curious what is the clip supposed to do? hold the pin from backing out? if so its kinda small and it doesnt look like it would hold it

this is what i got
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JollyGreen

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Yes, the clips are to hold the pins. The pins are pretty tight to begin with, so they don't necessarily "hold" them in.

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bluex

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The bushings keep you from wearing out the holes in the hinges themselves. If you were to use a bolt an no bushing then the hinge would take all the wear an the next time they needed replacing you'd have to replace both hinges on the door an the truck which are welded to the body.

The little clip just keeps the pin from working out as you open an shut the door over time. The pin isn't just going to fall out on it's own as it's a press fit...
 

Shaun

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Alright, I replaced the hinge pins on my driver door, maybe 6 months ago. This stopped it from sagging, and made it seem a lot more solid. I didn't replace the roller pin, because I didn't know they sold them ( and since it seemed impossible to remove). I recently bought two new rollers, springs, and a full set of hinge pins for both doors, since I'll have them both off , I'm just going to replace all the hinge pins, even though I just did the drivers door. My question is, my door won't close from the outside, unless you slam the living be out of it, and from the inside, if I open the window it closes easier, but is still harder to close than the passenger side, even with the window up. Also, when i'm driving down the road with the windows up, I can hear wind at the top, near the visor. No water gets in from rain or car washes, it's just not an "air tight" seal. Do you guys think replacing the striker, and the latch in the door in addition to replacing the pins and rollers/spring will fix any of this? Or do you think my fricken door is bent? Any help or advice is hugely appreciated, and thanks in advance!
 
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Thanks for this thread, it helped me fix my door handle.....now the next thing I gotta do is fix the door pins.
 

JollyGreen

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Alright, I replaced the hinge pins on my driver door, maybe 6 months ago. This stopped it from sagging, and made it seem a lot more solid. I didn't replace the roller pin, because I didn't know they sold them ( and since it seemed impossible to remove). I recently bought two new rollers, springs, and a full set of hinge pins for both doors, since I'll have them both off , I'm just going to replace all the hinge pins, even though I just did the drivers door. My question is, my door won't close from the outside, unless you slam the living be out of it, and from the inside, if I open the window it closes easier, but is still harder to close than the passenger side, even with the window up. Also, when i'm driving down the road with the windows up, I can hear wind at the top, near the visor. No water gets in from rain or car washes, it's just not an "air tight" seal. Do you guys think replacing the striker, and the latch in the door in addition to replacing the pins and rollers/spring will fix any of this? Or do you think my fricken door is bent? Any help or advice is hugely appreciated, and thanks in advance!


These doors are too damn heavy and the hinges were not designed properly. That's the main problem. I replaced damn near ever door part on my '97 with exception of the latch and striker. It didn't close as good as I wanted, so I removed/replaced those two parts and it did help. The problem is that there isn't much adjustment on these doors. I'd replace those and see where you're at. Are all your lines good? Meaning, does the door appear to be crooked and do your lines match up?

Here's something I did that also helped after I replaced everything:

Put a jack underneath the outer part of the door (when fully opened) with a couple of towels. CAREFULLY raise the door a little, then try closing the door again. Repeat until you're satisfied with fitment. You can see when the latch is almost touching the striker when you close the door. I've also "massaged" the striker up or down to give me a little more adjustment as well.




If anyone cares....After I replaced the pins on my 99 a couple weeks ago I put the spring back in and it seemed like it was putting WAY too much tension on the roller. So I took the spring out and cut about a half inch off of it, installed it to see how it shut. It was still too tight so I took it back out and cut a little more off. Now there's what I consider the perfect amount of tension on it without feeling/hearing that "clunk" sound when opening and closing the door.
 

Shaun

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My body lines match up, down the body. But, when the door is all the way shut, the bottom 6" or so sits further into the body then the door jamb. Like between an eighth and quarter inch. And since I can hear wind at he top corner near the visor (directly diagonally opposite), I was thinking about sticking a block of wood at the bottom corner, and pushing at the top corner near the visor. Hopefully that will make a better seal at the visor , and bring the bottom corner out a bit to match the outer edge of the jamb...we'll see. Gonna tackle that and the hinge pins/rollers this weekend.
 
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haha LOL, I noticed the other day that who ever previously had my truck didn't put the springs in the door when they re installed the doors.SMH.:nono:
 
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