DirtridinZ71 Budget SAS Build

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dirtridinz71

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Today I got the shock mounts done, the vent lines routed and the brake line fixed. I was actually able to drive the truck out the driveway and back. There is some binding/snapping comeing from the steering but with all the spring bolts loose I will look into the after. Plan on loading it on a trailer to move to the welder and get the gears installed.

What is everyone doing to show that the truck is in 4wd? Leaving the front actuator plugged in or ther must be a way to wire the t-case switch straight to the light.

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Solid94

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Mines never worked since the SAS. Would be good to know. Are you just going to run the stock steering? Or have you thought of hydro assist?
 

dirtridinz71

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I'd have to look at my wiring diagram, but I think you just have to spice 2 wires together where the actuator was then it'll light up every time you shift it in.

It shouldnt be to hard. I think the t-case switch sends the power to the actuator then once it engages power goes to the light, no positive but thats how I thought it worked, shouldnt be to hard to figure a way to make it work.

Mines never worked since the SAS. Would be good to know. Are you just going to run the stock steering? Or have you thought of hydro assist?
For now it is just going to stay with the stock pump, maybe down the road go with hydro assist but no plans of it right now.
 

Solid94

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I was just asking because my steering box has been getting progressively sloppier over time. And was told the hydro assist would help
 

dirtridinz71

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Got the truck to the welder today, it will probably be a couple weeks before it gets done.

What is the toe spec for the solid front axle. With the tre's cranked all the way in I still have 1/2" of toe out, not sure why it wont go any less. I'm using the stock centerlink and TRE's, it just seems that it is all too long?

Sitting high on 31's
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