Corvette Servo DISASTER

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JPVortex

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So I started putting the used trans I got and I did notice the fluid smells slightly burned from it. The color is a darkish red.

Do you guys think this trans is gonna be a dud and slip the minute I go to drive or do you guys think it just needs a nice new filter and some fluid?

Guy I bought it from said it shifted good, so that makes me a bit hopeful.
 

JPVortex

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Nobody can answer that. It certainly looks like it’s been used.
yeah definitely. It has 140k on it, so decently high but not thru the roof. Im just hoping for the best, should have it in within a few more days.
 

someotherguy

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Hope you flushed out your cooler lines and cooler before you hooked up the new-used transmission. Any contamination from the old blown unit you don't want mixed in with your replacement.

Richard
 

Schurkey

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Hope you flushed out your cooler lines and cooler before you hooked up the new-used transmission. Any contamination from the old blown unit you don't want mixed in with your replacement.
^^^ Quoted for truth.

When my favorite transmission shop rebuilt the 700 in my K1500, they connect an automated cooler-flush machine; which pumps solvent of some sort through the coolers, (One in the radiator, one free-standing in front of the radiator) and has a restriction-indicating gauge. My coolers were therefore flushed, and proven to not have debris inside that would hinder fluid flow.

That sort of flushing isn't possible for a D-I-Y project. About the best you can hope for is to disconnect the cooler return tube, start the engine with clean fluid in the transmission, and pump clean fluid through the cooler until it comes out bright-virgin-red. Consider installing an in-line trans fluid filter just ahead of the trans cooler(s).

For 5/16 cooler tubes, this in-line filter, for example:
www.amazon.com/ATP-JX-150-Universal-Plastic-Filter/dp/B000C8T99S/ref=sr_1_9_mod_primary_sns?crid=3L4LSACPXOZ7N
xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

Of course, there's other brands, and filters intended for other sizes of cooler tubes.
 

JPVortex

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I ther
thQuoted for truth.

When my favorite transmission shop rebuilt the 700 in my K1500, they connect an automated cooler-flush machine; which pumps solvent of some sort through the coolers, (One in the radiator, one free-standing in front of the radiator) and has a restriction-indicating gauge. My coolers were therefore flushed, and proven to not have debris inside that would hinder fluid flow.

That sort of flushing isn't possible for a D-I-Y project. About the best you can hope for is to disconnect the cooler return tube, start the engine with clean fluid in the transmission, and pump clean fluid through the cooler until it comes out bright-virgin-red. Consider installing an in-line trans fluid filter just ahead of the trans cooler(s).

For 5/16 cooler tubes, this in-line filter, for example:
www.amazon.com/ATP-JX-150-Universal-Plastic-Filter/dp/B000C8T99S/ref=sr_1_9_mod_primary_sns?crid=3L4LSACPXOZ7N
xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

Of course, there's other brands, and filters intended for other sizes of cooler tubes.

^^^ Quoted for truth.

When my favorite transmission shop rebuilt the 700 in my K1500, they connect an automated cooler-flush machine; which pumps solvent of some sort through the coolers, (One in the radiator, one free-standing in front of the radiator) and has a restriction-indicating gauge. My coolers were therefore flushed, and proven to not have debris inside that would hinder fluid flow.

That sort of flushing isn't possible for a D-I-Y project. About the best you can hope for is to disconnect the cooler return tube, start the engine with clean fluid in the transmission, and pump clean fluid through the cooler until it comes out bright-virgin-red. Consider installing an in-line trans fluid filter just ahead of the trans cooler(s).

For 5/16 cooler tubes, this in-line filter, for example:
www.amazon.com/ATP-JX-150-Universal-Plastic-Filter/dp/B000C8T99S/ref=sr_1_9_mod_primary_sns?crid=3L4LSACPXOZ7N
xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

Of course, there's other brands, and filters intended for other sizes of cooler tubes.
Is there a quicker way to flush them without starting it?
 

Schurkey

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Compressed air regulated to ~30 psi, blow from outlet to inlet (reverse flush) and then from inlet to outlet (flush in normal direction.) See what happens.

There may be aerosol-can solutions, I don't actually know of any.

Maybe get an A/C flush gun and some A/C flush solvent from your local parts-store loaner-tool program, and adapt the A/C flush gun to the trans cooler. Be careful to not over-pressurize the cooler. And after the flush-solvent, blow compressed-air at ~30 psi through the cooler to assure that the solvent is gone.

Seems to me that GM requires flushing of transmission coolers when replacing transmissions, and oil coolers when replacing engines, and the standard is "60 micron" cleanliness---which conveniently is about the same filtration as an ordinary coffee filter from a drip machine. If the crap coming out of the cooler doesn't leave pieces and chunks in the coffee filter, you're good-to-go. If it does leave debris in the filter, you need to replace the filter and keep on flushing.

There are some coolers that CANNOT be reliably cleaned. Those coolers have to be replaced.
 

someotherguy

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^^^ Quoted for truth.

When my favorite transmission shop rebuilt the 700 in my K1500, they connect an automated cooler-flush machine; which pumps solvent of some sort through the coolers, (One in the radiator, one free-standing in front of the radiator) and has a restriction-indicating gauge. My coolers were therefore flushed, and proven to not have debris inside that would hinder fluid flow.

That sort of flushing isn't possible for a D-I-Y project. About the best you can hope for is to disconnect the cooler return tube, start the engine with clean fluid in the transmission, and pump clean fluid through the cooler until it comes out bright-virgin-red. Consider installing an in-line trans fluid filter just ahead of the trans cooler(s).

For 5/16 cooler tubes, this in-line filter, for example:
www.amazon.com/ATP-JX-150-Universal-Plastic-Filter/dp/B000C8T99S/ref=sr_1_9_mod_primary_sns?crid=3L4LSACPXOZ7N
xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

Of course, there's other brands, and filters intended for other sizes of cooler tubes.
What do you think of going a step further (DIY) and
Compressed air regulated to ~30 psi, blow from outlet to inlet (reverse flush) and then from inlet to outlet (flush in normal direction.) See what happens.

There may be aerosol-can solutions, I don't actually know of any.

Maybe get an A/C flush gun and some A/C flush solvent from your local parts-store loaner-tool program, and adapt the A/C flush gun to the trans cooler. Be careful to not over-pressurize the cooler. And after the flush-solvent, blow compressed-air at ~30 psi through the cooler to assure that the solvent is gone.

Seems to me that GM requires flushing of transmission coolers when replacing transmissions, and oil coolers when replacing engines, and the standard is "60 micron" cleanliness---which conveniently is about the same filtration as an ordinary coffee filter from a drip machine. If the crap coming out of the cooler doesn't leave pieces and chunks in the coffee filter, you're good-to-go. If it does leave debris in the filter, you need to replace the filter and keep on flushing.

There are some coolers that CANNOT be reliably cleaned. Those coolers have to be replaced.
You answered it as I was thinking it. Using compressed air (regulated down so you don't blow anything up) and a solvent, similar to flushing an A/C system, should be totally attainable for most DIY'ers, providing they have a compressor.

Richard
 
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