Cooling System Upgrade/Replacement

[RichLo]

Let it idle for a while to make sure the t-stat is opening and not fluctuating too much.

 

[Boots97]

Agreed, however budget for this immediate repair dictated my decision. $30 vs $200++

Understandable. Also, I believe your cap that you bought should be fine for your truck. Everything looks great!

 

[pgutier1]

Although the water pump started leaking when parked, here's the whole reason for the work needing to be done.

Holy F**K balls batman. Ya, replace that some of dang thing! LOL

 

[pgutier1]

Agreed, however budget for this immediate repair dictated my decision. $30 vs $200++

I know this pain...

On my '92 I wanted to upgrade the oil filter housing to the one used with the '97-'99 and ditch the crappy connectors for the oil filter lines coming from the radiator to the housing. I also needed to update the radiator from the same years for it has the correct fittings for the new lines. Everything was found at the treasure yard, had the radiator pressure tested and cleaned, to this day all is great! No more leaks from those plastic connectors BS...lol

 

[Dravec]

Yo! A little expertise please! I've recently been dealing with a busted upper radiator hose connection, so I'm needing to replace the entire radiator. Here's my plan....
I went to the boneyard Saturday and scored a super clean 41" radiator out of a 1 ton Sierra, obviously Babygirl came from the factory with a 36" radiator. From what I can see.... It appears it will be a fairly easy swap. Yes I have the factory tow package therefore I have both transmission and oil cooler lines. As far as this swap, has anyone done it or something similar and have any pointers, advice, or instruction? Is anyone able to confirm this swap as valid and doable? Side note, I've done the Big 3 (5) Upgrade, the 4 Hi Upgrade, and also have a House/Secondary Marine Battery installed on the driver side, where the optional secondary factory battery would have been, using the mounting deck from a 2000 2500 which also allowed me to relocate the charcoal recovery canister (not it's technical name) to sit roughly 10" closer to the firewall as opposed to right behind the radiator. I mention these upgrades because they're all located in the vicinity of installing the bigger radiator..... So it's a reference thing Since I'll have her tore apart installing the radiator I've decided to make the right play here, so I'll also be replacing the upper and lower radiator hoses, thermostat, water pump (developed a small drip, when parked, a couple of days ago), fan clutch ( I understand only silly ****'s wouldn't replace at the same time as a new water pump), and radiator cap. I've added pic's of the replacement parts I plan to use. So please, specifically, if anyone has any experience using the Duralast Water Pump/Fan Clutch Kit HD (see pics) from AutoZone, I'd appreciate any light you can shed on this part and any opinions as well. Obviously any info on the other chosen parts is appreciated as well. The only other question I think I have is... Currently I believe her cooling system operates at 15 lbs. Pressure, do I need to score a 16 lbs. Cap because of the bigger radiator?? As always, you gentlemen are top notch and your knowledge is unmatched! Side Note: I've posted a few other times, mostly electronics shizz, but never added any solutions.... The most important thing I've learned since rescuing Babygirl is this.... Before you start throwing money and parts at your ride, electrical issues especially, start at the beginning of each circuit, pull the harness and all other connections, inspect, depin, clean and reassemble before anything else, after checking fuses of course and please be patient and thorough. Doing this has saved me a ton of money so far. My headlights would randomly shut off from the switch getting to hot, this includes both new replacements, followed my advice... Fixed! Passenger side taillight went dark.... followed my own advice.... Fixed! Dash Lights haven't worked since I got her, oil pressure and temp gauges were intermittent at best, pulled the cluster, cleaned it real well and made sure all the tabs were secure on connections and motors... Go figure.... Fixed! And all exterior/interior lighting is brighter than ever. So ya, do the shizz no one likes doing and don't be afraid to use that local boneyard as an additional Parts Store. At least if you like saving money! Thanks You and Have a Stellar Day! Cheers

I work at AutoZone. I HIGHLY recommend against a failsafe thermostat. They are junk. They always fail, and cause issues. I've never had one last more than 6 months.

 

[GoToGuy]

Added safety and availability

Ok, the added safety, how do you get safety? The stock cap is 15 lbs. And is a safe design.
Lever caps caps are a grenade waiting for someone to flip the lever. The sudden release of pressurized steam is a real hazard.
What's the point?

 

[TheRedMamba]

This morning I drove 2 miles round trip which barely moved the temp gauge, this is not the normal, she'd be at operating temp by then, so a good thing! Anyway, I let her idle when I got back, at just before 200° the temp gauge reacted and went all the way down to midway between 100° and 210°. Very drastic, but better than before! I think a good thing?!???

 

[TheRedMamba]

Ok, the added safety, how do you get safety? The stock cap is 15 lbs. And is a safe design.
Lever caps caps are a grenade waiting for someone to flip the lever. The sudden release of pressurized steam is a real hazard.
What's the point?

I see your point. After pondering your point... I would say part of my decision was most likely influenced by the last month of pulling over and waiting for her to cool down so I could fill her up with antifreeze after she had popped a hose again. Yes the pressure was released with said hose coming off, so it is what it is and the 2nd factor was availability at $15 or less.

 

[Road Trip]

This morning I drove 2 miles round trip which barely moved the temp gauge, this is not the normal, she'd be at operating temp by then, so a good thing! Anyway, I let her idle when I got back, at just before 200° the temp gauge reacted and went all the way down to midway between 100° and 210°. Very drastic, but better than before! I think a good thing?!???

I've seen that plunging behavior when there was an air pocket in the vicinity of the thermostat. Make sure that
you have the overflow tank in place and keep filling it back up to the cold mark until the system quits burping
air/slurping water coolant to replace it. Once the system is 100% coolant I wouldn't be surprised to see the coolant
temp climb to the t-stat opening point and just stay there.

Q: What was the original failure? Just a leaky radiator? Or was the cooling system being pressurized >15 lbs
and blowing hoses off? Just trying to understand what's going on with your cooling system.

FWIW --

 

[TheRedMamba]

I see your point. After pondering your point... I would say part of my decision was most likely influenced by the last month of pulling over and waiting for her to cool down so I could fill her up with antifreeze after she had popped a hose again. Yes the pressure was released with said hose coming off, so it is what it is and the 2nd factor was availability at $15 or less.

And really no negative reviews to go that route. Cheers