Brakes pulsating after front rotor/new pad replacement

[TCBRacer77]

It sounds like you have a 2wd.

1: Have you verified the front hose(s) aren't collapsed, thus overheating and warping the rotors?
2: Are the rear brakes adjusted properly?
3: Have you made sure the fronts aren't being overworked and overheated by poor rear operation?

I will be replacing rears this next week, am if this is the case is my front shot already?

 

[Supercharged111]

you didn't bed in the pads correctly.

This. You likely have pad deposits on the rotors. Look for a smeared appearance on the rotor face.

 

[Caman96]

Remmen Brakes: Bedding-in Your Pads

Remmen bedding-in advice; bedding-in is an essential part of having a safe and effective brake system but must be done properly.

thebrakereport.com

 

[tayto]

i use the old hawk Directions. 10 35mph to 5mph stops, 3 or 4 45mph to 15mph, then coast to a stop DO NOT TOUCH pedal. new hawk instructions say leave for 15 minutes, but i let them cool at least a hour, overnight if i can. never had pulsating rotors and have fixed many others chronic pulsating rotors this way.

the goal is even pad material transfer to the rotor face.

 

[Caman96]

i use the old hawk Directions. 10 35mph to 5mph stops, 3 or 4 45mph to 15mph, then coast to a stop DO NOT TOUCH pedal. new hawk instructions say leave for 15 minutes, but i let them cool at least a hour, overnight if i can. never had pulsating rotors and have fixed many others chronic pulsating rotors this way.

the goal is even pad material transfer to the rotor face.

I just googled it and that was what popped up, just to to give an idea.

 

[TCBRacer77]

Okay, this is helpful! Say I do have pad deposits. Can I correct it?

 

[Nad_Yvalhosert]

I will be replacing rears this next week, am if this is the case is my front shot already?

No, if you've got access to a brake lathe, they can be resurfaced.

 

[Schurkey]

Perhaps a moderator will move this thread from the "Engine" section to the "Axles + Brakes" section.

I’ve have an abs light that’s been on for over 2 years lol. While I was replacing hubs I replaced abs sensors but didn’t fix it. Any thoughts? It’s driving me nuts.

WHAT VEHICLE???

Apparently you have a new enough truck to have 3-channel ABS. Connect a scan tool, see what the ABS module is trying to tell you.

It sounds like you have a 2wd.

1: Have you verified the front hose(s) aren't collapsed, thus overheating and warping the rotors?
2: Are the rear brakes adjusted properly?
3: Have you made sure the fronts aren't being overworked and overheated by poor rear operation?

4. Caliper pistons sticking in the bore due to hardened seals, contamination on the seals, flaking chrome on the pistons, and/or contaminated brake fluid. Caliper pistons can seize in the bores, I'm talking more about them just being "stiff" but not yet totally seized.

5. Calipers not "floating" on the O-rings and pins/sleeves. Seized due to worn/rusted parts, or lack of lube.

6. Uneven tension on the lug-studs due to rusted lug nut threads, and/or previously overtightened wheels, and/or rust on the wheels where they contact the rotor.

 

[tayto]

Okay, this is helpful! Say I do have pad deposits. Can I correct it?

rotor must be turned

 

[Hipster]

There are different quality of replacement rotors out there. Some are junk and some have better metallurgy etc. as well as junk $8 pads. Most pro mechanics I know will only mess with the top shelf stuff and turn brand new rotors out of the box before installation. One problem I have run into multiple times is that not all bearings and races are created equally. I have seen size differences in the roller diameters, roller widths and the way the rollers sit on the races between Koyo, SKS, and Timkins so I always knock whatever generic unknown races out the rotor and install a matched bearing and race set from one manufacture if it's that type of rotor. If it's a sealed bearing type hub and you beat in the outer race by hammering on the inner race or vice-versa it got destoyed via the installation process. It didn't have a chance. Never followed any specific break in procedure other than no hard wheel locking stops for the first few hundred miles. Not to say it isn't worth following a specific procedure based on the type of pads you used. Organic, semi-metallic, Kevlar, etc Lots of different specialty stuff out there now.

One thing I'll add, though it's not quite what you're describing with the little bit of info you provided, A steering/suspension component that's on it's way out can sometimes create a funky come and go type of shake/wobble. When you hit the binders all the force on those components changes directions. A separated belt in a tire isn't always consistent either.