BNielsen's 2000 Chevy K3500

[Supercharged111]

What kind of camber do you have up front? I was pleasantly surprised to find how much my tire widths evened out on my 1500 by killing the positive camber the truck had in favor of a touch of negative. Those 8 luggers are wider in the front though, I would think just a pair of spacers out back ought to even things out.

 

[BNielsen]

You're right, that is better. Also, I can't read the one under the 3rd brake light, but I think it says 6.5 on it?

Leroy Diesel sticker; I've bought enough **** I can wear the sticker with pride now

 

[BNielsen]

What kind of camber do you have up front? I was pleasantly surprised to find how much my tire widths evened out on my 1500 by killing the positive camber the truck had in favor of a touch of negative. Those 8 luggers are wider in the front though, I would think just a pair of spacers out back ought to even things out.

Honestly I have no idea, I was planning to throw it on the rack at my buddy's shop but he had a truck on his 4 post he used for alignments, maybe one day I'll run up and check everything. It definitely seems a little funky on the way everything is angled compared to my K2500 but I'm not sure if it's just the difference in the backspace of the wheels

 

[Supercharged111]

Honestly I have no idea, I was planning to throw it on the rack at my buddy's shop but he had a truck on his 4 post he used for alignments, maybe one day I'll run up and check everything. It definitely seems a little funky on the way everything is angled compared to my K2500 but I'm not sure if it's just the difference in the backspace of the wheels

Be prepared to have to punch out the knockouts, requires unbolting the UCAs from the frame. And DO NOT accept an ounce of positive camber, those who blindly follow the retarded factory specs and/or endorse them have no idea what they're doing. Oh, they'll tell you they've been aligning cars since forever, this that and the other, but nothing about your driving is able to wear the inside of the tire more than the outside. Yet every time you take a corner, even old man style, puts pressure on the outside of the tire. Doesn't mean you need a ton of negative camber, -.5 should be the max you're entertaining unless you really like to party. But you may end up in a scenario where going for negative eats up all your adjustment and you have trouble hitting the mark on your caster. If that happens, take 0 camber as your compromise, but do not settle for positive camber! Tipping the tire inward from where it is now will have a visual impact on the width up front, those fenders taper inward as they get up toward the bumper. I don't think the flares are tapered themselves

 

[termite]

Maybe, I'm eyeing a set of American Outlaws on marketplace now. I'm kicking myself for selling the ones I had on my red truck when I first bought it, they got passed around between my brother and a couple friends but ultimately wound up on my brother's Duramax he sold.

I like the look of those as well. To be honest, i like the appearance of the eagle alloys but despise having mud thrown up on me or in the window on my road from the offset. Once i get them swapped you can have first option before i list them locally.

 

[Erik the Awful]

Doesn't mean you need a ton of negative camber, -.5 should be the max you're entertaining unless you really like to party.

My camber says "Party!", but with 15s and thick sidewalls, it's pretty forgiving.

 

[BNielsen]

As posted in the "What did you do to your GMT400" thread; I've been battling no turn signals and no brake lights. I checked all my wiring, checked my circuit boards on the taillights and came to the conclusion it was the switch. Replaced the switch, everything works fine now, and when I went to test the brake lights to make sure they worked I popped a fuse.
Great.
Opened up the fuse panel and checked the diagram, 20A fuse in slot #1 for brakes and 4-way. Well there's a 30A here? Weird, pop in a 20A and immediately blows. So I guess it's back to checking the circuit again, hopefully it's not something with my new turn signal stalk.

 

[Mangonesailor]

As posted in the "What did you do to your GMT400" thread; I've been battling no turn signals and no brake lights. I checked all my wiring, checked my circuit boards on the taillights and came to the conclusion it was the switch. Replaced the switch, everything works fine now, and when I went to test the brake lights to make sure they worked I popped a fuse.
Great.
Opened up the fuse panel and checked the diagram, 20A fuse in slot #1 for brakes and 4-way. Well there's a 30A here? Weird, pop in a 20A and immediately blows. So I guess it's back to checking the circuit again, hopefully it's not something with my new turn signal stalk.

Check the trailer harness yet?

 

[BNielsen]

Check the trailer harness yet?

Doesn't have a trailer harness anymore. The wiring was so janky I went ahead and snipped it all out while I was pulling the bed off for the fuel sender. I'm wondering if it's possible a wire is chaffed and it's just rubbing on another wire under all the tape

 

[Supercharged111]

Sounds like you just need a bigger fuse.