Arteb Brazil GMT400 headlight users thread

[RichLo]

I used 3M DP420 to repair some defects (and potential future defects) in mine before installing them. DP405 is very similar except has a 5-min work time vs a 20-min work time. (405=5-min, 420=20-min)

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[RichLo]

Since I'm back on here, I found the pic below during the install on the drivers side. I had to back the adjusters all the way out to be able to get the pins into the new ARTEB bracket. After the two pins were in I was able to get it adjusted just fine but that alignment was an issue with my truck for some reason.

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[454cid]

I used 3M DP420 to repair some defects (and potential future defects) in mine before installing them. DP405 is very similar except has a 5-min work time vs a 20-min work time. (405=5-min, 420=20-min)

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Where did you buy that? I checked Amazon, and it's over $50!!!

www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-Weld-08966-Epoxy-Adhesive/dp/B07FQQGP96

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

I just bought a tap that is looking positive to solving the adjuster issue. It's a 6mm-1.0 Bosch tap that I bought for $5 at Menard's. The adjuster screw goes into the white nylon gear much better now, and I haven't sprayed it with the Blaster Dry-Lube yet.

@454cid, how did you decide which thread (SAE or metric) and pitch to use? Did you check the pitch of the lead screw, e.g., by running an M6-1.0 nut on it?

I can't help but think that the original issue with this last batch of adjusters from Arteb is the thread pitch of the white gear/nut didn't match that of the lead screw (e.g., one is SAE, the other metric).

I'm really pi$$ed that the adjusters turned out to be such a pervasive problem and sorry that people had to deal with it.

 

[454cid]

@454cid, how did you decide which thread (SAE or metric) and pitch to use? Did you check the pitch of the lead screw, e.g., by running an M6-1.0 nut on it?

I took it with me to Menard's and used their thread checker board, which is essentially nuts/screws with all the sizes mounted to it. They only had one thread pitch for a 6mm. It was a bit sloppy, but it was the only one that fit. I figured a 6mm of the wrong pitch probably wouldn't fit at all, so I went with it. Once the nylon gear is threaded on fully it doesn't wobble a significant amount. Oddly, the first gear I did, I didn't get much nylon shavings out. The 2nd one, I got a lot more out. It could be I didn't line it up as well. It was difficult to get straight.

I can't help but think that the original issue with this last batch of adjusters from Arteb is the thread pitch of the white gear/nut didn't match that of the lead screw (e.g., one is SAE, the other metric).

I was looking through the gears as I was working on them, and It looks to me like maybe the holes are not round. It looks like there are 4 gaps in the threaded area, like wide splines. I also think Arteb is/was relying on the screw to do the taping... or some of the gears skipped the threading process by accident.

I'm really pi$$ed that the adjusters turned out to be such a pervasive problem and sorry that people had to deal with it.

The metal C shaped bracket being loose and being a goofy design to begin with bothers me more. At least I can take the adjusters apart and do something about it.... well I was pretty upset the night I relaized I installed one them and then found the adjuster wasn't working.

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

The other night I decided to finally put my second Arteb back together, and cracked the white plastic pillar that the screw threads into. I guess I needed to drill it out more before running a longer screw in. My plan is to glue/epoxy it. Any advice on what to use? Will JB weld do it?

I have great respect for 3M's products, but sometimes they're on the pricy side.

For plastic parts of atypical composition (and even for those of typical composition) *I* use J-B PlasticBonder... not to be confused with their J-B PlasticWeld.

"PlasticBonder™ is a quick-setting, two-part, urethane adhesive system that provides strong and lasting repairs and works on thermoset, carbon fiber composites, thermoplastics, coated metals, concrete & more. PlasticBonder™ has a 1:1 mixing ratio, sets in 15 minutes and can be sanded after 30 minutes."

There are other urethane adhesives like this from other mfgrs, this is just the one I use. It's often special-order, but the price is acceptable at ~$7/tube or higher.

I used this on the broken mounting bosses of one my Arteb headlights (see picture below) that was damaged during shipping to me in 2019... this particular housing was bought used and it dates to 2014 (I think), bearing the GM stamp and part number. I keep it as a spare.

There are probably other products out there (either urethane or epoxy) that will work as good or better, but I've had very good results with this one.

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[shovelbill]

Hey folks,

I know this isn't the proper thread for this, but I figured someone would get a kick out of it. It is from Brazil, after all. I found it in our old lighting thread.

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[shovelbill]

I have great respect for 3M's products, but sometimes they're on the pricy side.

For plastic parts of atypical composition (and even for those of typical composition) *I* use J-B PlasticBonder... not to be confused with their J-B PlasticWeld.

"PlasticBonder™ is a quick-setting, two-part, urethane adhesive system that provides strong and lasting repairs and works on thermoset, carbon fiber composites, thermoplastics, coated metals, concrete & more. PlasticBonder™ has a 1:1 mixing ratio, sets in 15 minutes and can be sanded after 30 minutes."

There are other urethane adhesives like this from other mfgrs, this is just the one I use. It's often special-order, but the price is acceptable at ~$7/tube or higher.

I used this on the broken mounting bosses of one my Arteb headlights (see picture below) that was damaged during shipping to me in 2019... this particular housing was bought used and it dates to 2014 (I think), bearing the GM stamp and part number. I keep it as a spare.

There are probably other products out there (either urethane or epoxy) that will work as good or better, but I've had very good results with this one.

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I think I would try and sleeve that with something...maybe even some kind of pen or marker body.

 

[mn_ski]

Getting close to getting my headlights installed. Just to confirm the bracket with the LE part number is for the drivers side, correct?

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VS.

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Also, is there any reason my bracket has packaging tape on it? Can I remove that prior to installation?

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[Caman96]

Just curious, can the Arteb headlight itself be mounted into the OE bracket?