anyone ever heard of this happening?

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someotherguy

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I think I've seen guys kinda "build" a 454SS rear end from those parts you mentioned on the pt.net website.
I think the 454SS came with small brakes though, a hybrid style rear end sort of like how the GMT800 Silverado SS has. A regular C2500 "LD" 6 lug rear has BIG brakes. An axle swap from Moser and re-drilled pattern on the drums should get you good to go, and have better brakes than a 454SS would come with.

What I would really be interested to know, and don't have any resources anymore to play with (no salvage yard full of parts trucks) is if the 8 lug 9.5" 14 SF could be easily converted with axles from Moser, as that would be a crazy cost-effective way to get a 9.5" under your 1500. 8 lug 9.5's are way more common than the 6 lug 9.5's, and you can hardly give them away, in my experience. Sure; a lot of them will have miles of abuse from being on work trucks, but I'd think there are plenty to choose from. Typically also 4.10's, where the 6 lugs are often 3.73 (and some are 3.42)

Richard
 

kennythewelder

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Hard hitting shift kits are hard on parts from internal tranmission components to to u-joints to differential internals.
That's very true. There is a line between a firm shift, and a hard shift. A quick, firm shift, is a good thing, but it when the shift gets to hard, it is very hard on the drive train, from the transmission back. When I had my transmission remanufactured in February, they went way to hard with the shifts. 2 months later, I blew it up again. I broke the final output shaft in half, broke the transmission case, and wedged part of the output shaft into the sunshell and planetary gears. The trans shop had to start all over. Good thing the warranty covered the repairs the second time. I asked for them to leave the pressures at OE specs the second time. The master rebuild kit is and was HD, and I have Corvette servos. It will still bark a second, but doesn't hit so hard and more, that is sound like a bomb is going off. Between rebuilding the rear end with an Eating trutrac. a set of 373s and all new bearings and seals, the trans rebuild, and I went through the front end, and put new tires on the truck, I have spent $5000 on my truck since February. Glad I'm finally straight now.
 

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Hipster

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That's very true. There is a line between a firm shift, and a hard shift. A quick, firm shift, a s a good thing, but it when the shift gets to hard, it is very hard on the drive tran, from the transmission back. When I had my transmission remanufactured in February, they went way to hard with the shifts. 2 months later, I blew it up again. I broke the final output shaft in half, broke the transmission case, and wedged part of the output shaft into the sunshell and planetary gears. The trans shop had to start all over. Good thing the warranty covered the repairs the second time. I asked for them to leave the pressures at OE specs the second time. The master rebuild kit is and was HD, and I have Corvette servos. It will still bark a second, but doesn't hit so hard and more, that is sound like a bomb is going off. Between rebuilding the rear end with an Eating trutrac. a set of 373s and all new bearings and seals, the trans rebuild, and I went through the front end, and put new tires on the truck, I have spent $5000 on my truck since February. Glad I'm finally straight now.
I'm a big advocate of leaving race car stuff for the race cars. Clean, crisp shifts with no overlap is good for a streeter. Leave the crash/bang shifts kits for the race cars. As you found out a hard hitting shift kit and high energy/kevlar or whatever clutch packs don't make the trans inherently stronger as some shops would lead people to believe.
 

kennythewelder

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I'm a big advocate of leaving race car stuff for the race cars. Clean, crisp shifts with no overlap is good for a streeter. Leave the crash/bang shifts kits for the race cars. As you found out a hard hitting shift kit and high energy/kevlar or whatever clutch packs don't make the trans inherently stronger as some shops would lead people to believe.
I knew when they rebuilt the trans, that they went to far with it. My truck, is my daily driver. I need it dependable. Yes, I want performance, but there is a line between a good dependable vehicle with performance mods, and a race car. It's all good now, but before, it was just way to much. I asked about kevlor bands and clutches when I did the rebuild. The trans shop said, I will put you that if you want, but it won't hold up as good as the heavy duty master rebuild kit will. Yes, the kevlor will bite a little better, but it won't last as long. That's all I needed to hear. Give me the HD kit. Longevity is what's most important IMO. Performance is grate but, I don't want to be rebuilding the trans ever year or so. I told them, make it hold 400-500 HP and we will be good. I will never have the truck at 500 HP so if it holds that, we will be all good. I'm only at about 325 HP so I should be good for a long time now that things are rite.
 

MrPink

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Get a good look at those 6 lug Rally's. The square holes are larger; other than the lug pattern, the wheels are similar but different enough to notice. I'd go ahead and go 6 lug all the way around. Up front is super easy with just a C2500 "LD" rotor swap.

Richard
Yeah and that may happen. But not until I blow up the 10 bolt lmao.
 

Frank Enstein

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Racecars have much higher stall convertors that cushions the shift when you are putting around. Race trans with a low stall converter will break things as will an improperly adjusted TV cable.
 

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i took care of the problem, i found a 95 parts truck, with a 14 bolt, 6 lug, 9 1/2 ring gear. bigger brakes, bigger springs. then i installed a eaton tru-trac locker. did i say bigger brakes. wow it will stop on a dime.
 
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