Any measurements to set the caster and camber and toe

[Gradynunley]

Helped my boss do the front end and got cocky thought I could do mine now I've lost were the tie ends and the washers we're. How can I get that back can't even drive it to get an alignment

 

[98chevy2500SS]

This is sort of the method me and my dad use:

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I’ve forgotten before where the tie rods were, and usually this method gets me to where I can at least drive it to the alignment shop.

 

[Schurkey]

It would be nice if you'd tell us WHAT VEHICLE you're working on.

 

[Gradynunley]

97 1500

 

[Schurkey]

Were the knockouts for the upper control arm eccentrics actually removed? If not, caster and camber are non-issues unless the frame or other parts are bent or worn-out.

If they were removed, put the eccentrics so that the bolt goes through the middle of the slot. Should be good enough to get you to the alignment shop.

As for tie rod ends (toe), that should be easy enough to check with a tape measure and some sticks laid against the wheel rims. Again, good enough to get to an alignment shop.

 

[Erik the Awful]

Tape measure the distances between the front of the tires and the back of the tires. Get 'em within a quarter inch and you can drive to the alignment shop.

If you follow that video above, and use fishing line instead of that crappy rope he's using, you don't need an alignment shop. If you're careful enough, that's a complete toe-n-go alignment. The tech at the tire shop might have a machine with lasers, but the adjustment range isn't any more accurate. We perform a similar procedure at the track with our race car.

 

[96TahoeDoug]

Question on the cam bolts - mine are installed and knockouts removed I assume, the thing is my cams are way off side to side. I need a -2 degrees camber, looks like it's loosen the uca nuts and the bolt turns the cams , tires on, off the ground and reset the cams opposite each side..sound right, go for full negative camber on all 4 and adjust from there?

Looks like one side has the cams un equal therefore adding some toe against the caster.. no prior wrecks, nothing bent - seems both uca cams on each side would be set in unison and provide a +-4 degree camber spread and I'm guessing for and aft cams would give caster change affecting return to center of steering knuckle action..so I baseline the cams negative. Set the toe. Use my levels to set cams...thanks for any corrections...

 

[96TahoeDoug]

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4 per side ..

 

[Schurkey]

You're right that the cams affect camber and caster. Toe is set elsewhere. Issue is, there's a limited amount of adjustment, and you've gotta get camber AND caster adjusted adequately with what travel is available with the cams. It's not a huge surprise that the cams wouldn't be positioned the same, side-to-side once the alignment is complete.

Don't adjust ANYTHING until you get the alignment equipment connected. It's pointless to lose your existing "close-enough" alignment until you're set up and ready to make it exact.

You may not get camber and/or caster where you want. You may have to compromise caster (not a tire-wearing angle) to get appropriate camber (tire-wearing angle.)

Theoretically, camber and caster are adequately adjusted with the bolts in the middle of the slots. That's why GM can leave the knock-outs in place--they think their manufacturing process is precise enough to eliminate camber/caster adjustment on all vehicles, leaving a few outliers to have the knockouts removed, and a proper alignment performed under warranty (or by enthusiasts, decades after warranty has expired.)

For the record, it's a waste of time, money, effort, and enthusiasm to perform an alignment on any vehicle that has worn (or bent) suspension components. The simple truth is that on modern vehicles, the manufacturing really is precise enough for 99% of owners; as long as the suspension is in really-good condition. Sagging springs, wiped-out control arm bushings, worn ball joints or tie rod ends...any one or more failing components will destroy any hope of achieving and retaining proper alignment angles under dynamic conditions.

 

[96TahoeDoug]

Solid reply thank you for that. I got a couple old brake drums I'll bolt on backwards to the rotor hubs and Bungie my 1" sq. Tubing from 0-90degrees and mount a torpedo level to each side. For toe I use not the string but the fat Milwaukee tape measure the end grabs.the far sipe fore and aft and maybe a smidge negative toe.
Something is off as my cams are 45 degrees off left to right and the passenger rear bolt/cam is another 45 degrees positive camber from the front pass uca cam. It had bags for 93k of 98k miles. Just rolled fenderwells, flared a little and need -camber for pre-tucking 22x9" $45 harbor freight hammer/dolly set worth double. Damn belltech drop spindles .5" track width extra per side really make me say whiskey tango foxtrot as why not machine them down properly