A nice surprise under the vinyl floor.

[wiscomick]

Pulled my vinyl floor out last night as I saw some signs of orange. As suspected, I've got some issues.

The good news is that the rust isn't through, and the floors are still quite solid. Just need to take the rust down and coat it with something. The vinyl floor is also coming out in favor of carpeting so hopefully this doesn't continue after the fact.

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I will say, it looks worse than it is. What would be your suggestions on what to coat this with after getting it clean to protect it in the future? POR15? Rust Bullet? Chassis Saver? Lots of different ideas out there, just looking for the best one for my situation.

Thanks!

 

[Oldblue98]

Por 15 has my vote, good stuff

 

[454cid]

I put POR 15 on mine and it didn't work. I don't know what I did wrong. I suppose maybe it's just old... I've had that can for several years.

 

[Oldblue98]

It is real touchy to age and air, best rule of thumb with por 15 is don't buy more than you expect to use at one time. And if it is going to be exposed to UV rays it needs to be top coated. I love the stuff worked great for me on the old G Van I had. I know if you get it on your skin you better be ready to wear it awhile =)

 

[454cid]

It is real touchy to age and air, best rule of thumb with por 15 is don't buy more than you expect to use at one time. And if it is going to be exposed to UV rays it needs to be top coated. I love the stuff worked great for me on the old G Van I had. I know if you get it on your skin you better be ready to wear it awhile =)

It's still liquid so I assumed it was fine... worked ok on my tow hooks. They eventually dulled and peeled, but they're exposed to UV. On the cab floor it just flaked and rusted again. It didn't seal out the water and salt. I suppose it needs to be tossed.

I had some Chassis Saver once... that stuff went hard in the can, very quickly, after using some of it.

I've thought about wire wheeling the floor again, coating it with something and then putting bed liner on top... either DIY or maybe professionally sprayed if a cab floor wouldn't be too much.

 

[wiscomick]

I haven't worked with any of those type of sealers, so I'm not sure what to expect. As far as I know they're all basically some sort of moisture-cured urethane coating. I could be wrong. Either way, I have to figure a solution over the weekend as my carpet is going to be here next week. And I definitely don't want to be cutting new floors in this thing any time soon, so I want to get the right stuff.

 

[Darrell]

There's also rust encapsulators on the market. Never used any but from what I've read rust encapsulators have better UV protection then Por15

 

[RichLo]

I wonder why they dont have a 2-part epoxy for cars like is available for boats and wood. I understand urethane is more flexible but I would assume wood expands and contracts WAY more than metal does. I've never had good luck with any urethane coatings lasting more than one year of daily driving. But anything I've epoxy-ed has lasted longer than I've expected.

 

[superdave]

I wouldn't get too **** about what to use there. That's just patina, and all the cool kids love that. Wire brush and treat with any good rust treatment. Coat with a good paint over that and it will last another 25 years.

 

[R422b]

My step dad uses Pittsburgh direct to rust epoxy and has had no chipping or peeling. It will fade if it is exposed to uv but he still doesent paint it.
Its super expensive but the 200$ minumum 2 gallon purchase goes a very long way when you thin it enough to roll on. He uses it on everything from trailer frames to hand made huricane brackets.
Here is a link to the company page on it.
http://www.ppghighperformancecoatin...RD®-Direct-To-Rust-Epoxy-Mastic-Coatings.aspx