A/C compressor turns on and off?

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PlayingWithTBI

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First try to tightening the valves using pliers-you just grab and twist-then add some refrigerant and see if it hisses no more. I'd still replace them anyway.
You can go to O'Reillys and get a kit with valves for both low and high side. The low side is the same size as a regular car tire valve but the high side is bigger. You need this tool in this picture to remove and install them since a normal tire valve tool won't fit the high side. Here's the 2 kits.
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Here's what you get in the cap and valve kit
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Tornexted

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Alrighty got it, thanks for the help guys. I saw a video online of a guy turning the pulley/clutch of the compressor while the engine is off, but I'm not able to do it with mine. Don't know if that's normal. The compressor does kick on but the engine revs down quite a bit. Also, which o rings do I replace? All of them? Thanks again in advance, I'll begin work on the ac system in the coming weeks.
 

Dariusz Salomon

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Id say all-the ones on the pipes going to compressor(on top),idk where orifice tune is in yours but that one too(mine is in joint pipes on the right hand side near battery),dryer one.
 

Tornexted

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Edit: My plan is to use one of these kits to fix the leaking Schrader valve I mentioned originally, the orifice tube, and the dryer, as well as replacing a couple o rings. I will vacuum the system and test to see if it maintains vaccum, and then refill with UV freon to see if there are any leaks. I will update in the coming weeks as I'm quite busy with work.

I won't replace the lines going between the compressor and accumulator/dryer as it's just the Schrader valve that I suspect is leaking the most, not the piping itself.

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thinger2

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All of the above and, the ac clutch adjustment is really touchy.
It takes a special tool and it is kind of a pain to do.
You can get a loaner tool to do this from the part stores.
Once you fix the leak and pull a vacuum and all of that and get a proper charge.
It might engage and still slip.
Look for aluminum dust out of the clutch.
Sometimes that clutch is worn or burnished to the point that it just wont engage long enough to build pressure.
It skips because it is a pretty weak electromagnet that pulls the clutch in.
Its been awile but I seem to recall the allowance was .015 to .030?
Fairly tight for an open to air clutch.
You can replace just the clutch on the compressor.
It is doable.
If you end up going that route let me know .
The adjustment is a pain but you can do it.
 

PlayingWithTBI

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Its been awile but I seem to recall the allowance was .015 to .030?
Fairly tight for an open to air clutch.
You can replace just the clutch on the compressor.
It is doable.
It's about 0.020 - 0.035" AND I found a new NAPA R4 clutch @ >0.080" which promptly smoked itself after a week! Here's what I went through during my experience with one of my R4 compressors. It's not that hard measuring the air gap, the best way is to have 2 sets of feeler gauges, one opposite the other to achieve the proper gap. The air gap is adjusted by just tightening the nut or hitting it with a socket to close the gap, originally there were no shims used on it. in this thread I also went in to adding a relay to get full battery voltage to the coil. It turned out 11.4 VDC wasn't enough to hold the clutch in place.
This finally got my A/C to work properly. YMMV:33:

https://www.gmt400.com/threads/swapping-the-clutch-on-an-r4-a-c-compressor.49928/
 

Tornexted

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Quick question, I assume the orifice tube on my 2-door truck is located behind the front grill right before the condenser? Where else could it be if it's not there? I hope I can begin work on the AC this Thursday if everything from amazon comes in on time.
 
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