98 chevy 1500 engine issue

[Dougm72]

ok i made some videos i have to make a serpeate one becuase the truck wouldent start one thingh i noticed when i did that the mph went up and then back down. also when i put my hand over the exhaust it make a thud feeling like uneven ness if that makes any sense but mainly on the passanger side.

#1 video
http://s1142.photobucket.com/albums/n618/dougm72/?action=view&current=MPG_0407.mp4
#2 video
http://s1142.photobucket.com/albums/n618/dougm72/?action=view&current=MPG_0408.mp4

 

[Dougm72]

any ideas

 

[Dougm72]

ok i ot a game plan
gona u e my
vortec heads
vortec intake
vortec timing cover
timing gears
timing chain
recluton gear
-------------------
buying new
distrubiter & roter
oil pan gasket
head gaskets
--------------------
if i have the money going to buy
new oil pump and what is needed with it
-------------------------------------
if it has the stock tapped cam that 350tbis came i will use that for now till i can get the block drilled
the guy said the cam is a roller cam he is not sure on the lift of the cam and the engine is a 95 or 96

my plan please correct or feel free to add to each one.

 

[FastOrange]

replace the oil pump/Screen and Timing chain, they both run about $20-$30 and you will NEED to change them

 

[Dougm72]

ill make sure to change the oil pump for sure then and i shoiuld be able to use my gears and chain if they are new but ill check um out. also on the cam how do i remove and install and check to see if its a roller for sure. and same with the oil pump how o i remove

 

[FastOrange]

ill make sure to change the oil pump for sure then and i shoiuld be able to use my gears and chain if they are new but ill check um out. also on the cam how do i remove and install and check to see if its a roller for sure. and same with the oil pump how o i remove

replace your timing chain regardless if its new, even if its slightly used it will have strech

-if it is a roller cam, it will have a hold down spider in the lifter valley, flat tappet will have nothing, also the lifters themselves will have rollers on them, not flat
-The oil pump is held on by one bolt, just remove the bolt and remove the pump, also when you buy a new pump, get a new screen for it.

Also buy a COMPLETE gasket kit, its only about $50-$100 and you WILL need it.

 

[Sully]

id sell him the guitar, and find a 96-98 motor in a junk yard... sure it may need some cleaning up, but its easier than trying to find ever difference and make it what you want.

 

[Sully]

replace your timing chain regardless if its new, even if its slightly used it will have strech

-if it is a roller cam, it will have a hold down spider in the lifter valley, flat tappet will have nothing, also the lifters themselves will have rollers on them, not flat
-The oil pump is held on by one bolt, just remove the bolt and remove the pump, also when you buy a new pump, get a new screen for it.

Also buy a COMPLETE gasket kit, its only about $50-$100 and you WILL need it.

new oil pumps dont all come with new screens? odd. I got a new screen when I got my pump.

aside from me not knowing about the screen, this is all buillet proof advice. If you know someone who can weld, clearance the oil pump then tack it in place so it doesnt move. Id also plan on a rear main seal. You will be right there when you do the oil pump, why not spend the 30-40 for that added bit of insurance. it is always better to spend the money now than have issues later. Even if you have to wait. Now a rear main isnt that huge, but like I said 30-40 bucks is small money compared to future repairs. If you know someone with the know how, i would pull one of each kind of bearings. MAKE 100% SURE TO NOT CONFUSE WHICH ONE GOES WHERE. That will tell you allot about your motor. Bearing sets are pretty cheap too if you find that you do need them.

 

[Dougm72]

thank you so much guys huge help and i was thinking about the rear main seal how hard is it? i will be doing this on my own noone wants to help lol my buddy who is the same age will also prob help me some
i got prices for my plan. i have to buy the pump screen sepearte
oil pump-22.99
oil pump screen-10.99
full gasket set-65.99
timing chain-12.99
engine paint-5.69ea x5=28.45
distubiter kit/set-125.99
plugs-2.99ea x8=23.92
wires-34.99
haynes/chilton books - priceless na i wish 24.99-39.99

and if needed roller cam/crank/and matching bearings all for -175.99

total $502.30 + tax

the guy is only trade the moter for guitar to help me. i wish i didnt have to sell it and could go buy a moter from a junk yard
also i can weld pretty good. the bearing could i do the crank bearsing myself? is it all the hard? and am i correct cam bearing need pressed on right

 

[Sully]

the bearings I was talking about was the main and rod bearings.... they are both on the crank. They arent hard, but you have to be able to clearance them. Basically, you install the bearings (going to need special lube for it) with plasti-gauge between the bearings and the crank. Then you take the bearing off and compare the squished piece of plastic against the package it came in to see how many thou of clearance you have. .0015ish is about what they should be if the crank and everything is brand new. A good safe clearance for a motor with close to 300,000 miles is roughly .0025. If you get between those numbers you should be good.

I noticed on your price list you dont have a new timng chain cover. These are not re-usable. Wehn you take the old one off to do the timing chain, you will need a new cover. It shouldnt be too bad either, but as you can see you are quickly adding to the price. When I got my junk yard vortec, I spent about 450 bucks buying different parts and fluids and such. Thats in canadian dollars so you can expect to pay less, but it will give you a good idea of pricing.

that price included:
main bearings
rod bearings
gaskets
rear main seal
timing chain cover (had a new timing chain already)
new package of plasti gauge
assembly lube (for doing the bearings)
oil and filter
anti-freeze
and probably some other odds and ends I'm forgetting