4L60E to 4L80E in 1995 Suburban

[mistaake]

I'm planning to put a decent amount of money into my burb and I can't help but worry about the tranny at 176K miles with dubious maintenance history.

If the 4L60E does die I guess the things to worry about are:

1. Custom tune to eliminate check engine light
2. Getting new/rebuilt 4L80E
3. Transmission mounting and flexplate, etc.
4. Transmission controller
5. Drive shaft

Am I missing anything? Has anybody done this on a 95 K1500 Suburban? I know 95 is an odd year. Thank you

 

[VCaddy]

Planning on the same swap in my 95 K1500.

Here's a mess of links for parts and info to do it -

http://mattw.dyndns.org/4L80E/
http://www.truckforum.org/forums/chevy-truck-forum/23119-4l60e-to-4l80e-swap-in-96-ecsb-4x4.html
http://www.msgpio.com/manuals/mshift/4L80E/4L80e.html
http://www.pacificp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5795&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=80
http://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/gm-drivetrain-suspension-22/4l60e-4l80e-wiring-swap-413157/page3/
http://www.speartech.com/product_p/60to80upgrade.htm

The Speartech wiring harness will let you get away with not re-pinning connectors, but it's still handy info to know for 4L80E control. Your 7427 PCM will do 80E control, but you'll need to go from $0D code in your PCM to $0E, or segment swap the 80E data into $0D. There's a couple other ways to do 80E control as well. I'm pretty sure the frame is already drilled for moving the crossmember back. You'll also need the transfer case with the 4L80E, or swap the input gear in your current one. 4L80E cooler ports are in a different location, so you'll need new lines. That's about all I can think of for now.

 

[NorCalMike]

Here's a nice setup to extend the rear cooler line. He doesn't list the fittings used but I'm sure it wouldn't be too hard to figure out. http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/front-page-news/14163-how-4l60e-4l80e-trans-swap.html

 

[99'Subourbon]

I think I am just going to order a Performabuilt 4L60E for mine. I played with the idea of a 4L80E swap, but it takes about 50hp (from what I have read) more to get that thing turning like a 4L60. Unless I go d44/60 SAS and a 14b swap, which is very unlikely to happen, a stage 1 performabuilt 60 should be more than I will ever need, and even then, I don't know which would break first. I mean, it's a suburban... a 550hp motor (what the Performabuilt stage 1 is rated at) would be better placed elsewhere than in this 3.5 ton pig.

 

[NorCalMike]

The problem I always think about with the 4l60e's that are 'built' is they are always 'rated' in hp, never torque and vehicle weight. I've done too many 4l60e rebuilds in Astro vans and s-10's to even think about one being in a full size anything. I don't trust a 4l60e much further then I can throw one. Just my opinion.

Edit: 4t60e ( the transverse version of a 4l60e) comes in a lot of gm cars. And those are also junk in my opinion.

 

[99'Subourbon]

The problem I always think about with the 4l60e's that are 'built' is they are always 'rated' in hp, never torque and vehicle weight. I've done too many 4l60e rebuilds in Astro vans and s-10's to even think about one being in a full size anything. I don't trust a 4l60e much further then I can throw one. Just my opinion.

Edit: 4t60e ( the transverse version of a 4l60e) comes in a lot of gm cars. And those are also junk in my opinion.

Yeah I get that, and that hp rating is actually 500 RWHP, but I understand torque and weight play a very important part. But, they don't even give you a rating if you go with the Heavy Duty Hauling build, or Mud/Rock build - they have a proven track record in the industry too.

 

[NorCalMike]

Yeah I hear ya, I've just seen too many people go down the 'built 4l60e' route to regret it later and do the swap anyways.

 

[df2x4]

Why not just get your 60E rebuilt? Would be a lot cheaper. You could also pick what goes into it and have the shop set it up for exactly what you're trying to do.

IMO 60Es are fine for most people. I've seen drag cars run built 60Es with no issues.

EDIT - Realized it wasn't clear who I was talking to, but mistaake and 99subourbon this is directed at both of you.

 

[99'Subourbon]

Why not just get your 60E rebuilt? Would be a lot cheaper. You could also pick what goes into it and have the shop set it up for exactly what you're trying to do.

IMO 60Es are fine for most people. I've seen drag cars run built 60Es with no issues.

EDIT - Realized it wasn't clear who I was talking to, but mistaake and 99subourbon this is directed at both of you.

I'm the one saying to go with a built 60E I just don't have any shops I trust in town to rebuild mine tho. Which is why I brought up Performabuilt transmissions.

 

[df2x4]

I just don't have any shops I trust in town to rebuild mine tho.

Man that sucks, I see a ton of people say this. Have you checked around two or three towns over? Even after the gas expenses I'm sure it would still be cheaper. Find the best mechanic you know and ask him who he'd have do your rebuild if it were his truck, that's what I did. Also as a side note if you're doing research on 60E internals, talk to rhino on here. He gave me a ton of useful advice and I ended up buying my sunshell, servos and shift kit from him for WAY cheaper than Summit, Jegs, RockAuto etc.