1996 C1500 Reg Cab AC not working - what all do I need?

[Stringer]

thanks for the tips! i will make sure i get this done right with all the good info in this thread, and compressor sits correct.

for the compressor i did get a UAC sanden style 4440

 

[AuroraGirl]

also something to consider is if you have just a mechanical clutch fan, a pusher fan may be helpful for low speed or traffic ac performance. I see you live in florida, its the only reason I say anything.

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

a pusher fan may be helpful for low speed or traffic ac performance

Yes. Since the aux fan was an option on the GMT400s, aftermarket replacements are still available, e.g., see RockAuto here:

CHEVROLET > 1996 > K1500 PICKUP > 5.7L V8 > Heat & Air Conditioning > A/C Condenser Fan Assembly

I have that assy on my Suburban and I'll comment that, when I replaced my AC condenser, I had to shim that fan assy a bit to keep it from coming into direct contact with the new condenser. A washer between the fan's bracket and the radiator support (to which the bracket's bolted) provided the necessary clearance.

I would recommend against mounting any electric fan directly to the condenser, e.g., by using plastic tie wraps or what-have-you. Some aftermarket fans I've seen mount this way, and that's just wrong.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Yes. Since the aux fan was an option on the GMT400s, aftermarket replacements are still available, e.g., see RockAuto here:

CHEVROLET > 1996 > K1500 PICKUP > 5.7L V8 > Heat & Air Conditioning > A/C Condenser Fan Assembly

I have that assy on my Suburban and I'll comment that, when I replaced my AC condenser, I had to shim that fan assy a bit to keep it from coming into direct contact with the new condenser. A washer between the fan's bracket and the radiator support (to which the bracket's bolted) provided the necessary clearance.

I would recommend against mounting any electric fan directly to the condenser, e.g., by using plastic tie wraps or what-have-you. Some aftermarket fans I've seen mount this way, and that's just wrong.

I think ANY thing that you buy with those zip tie things(Trans/ps coolers, even the small ones) should be held at a stand off the condensor or radiator. there is a reason they mount them not touching and its a pretty easy connection if you think about it(some people may not still lol) but they include those damn things. I will never mount something into a condensor/radiator, thats asking for issues. esp with a hydraulic circuit in it(ps return)
its not hard to use aluminum stock to make something you can then use clamps with rubber to hold one of those down. and the fan thing is a good tip. im glad you can still get pushers. pushers on squares are rare and co-existed only during the 88-91 legacy squares.

Also I dont know how the air deflector situation was one these trucks but making sure the seal betweeen condensor radiator and the bottom shields (if any) and the possible damns on the sides etc are intact will help the fan pull the most air through. then of course the proper shroud and fan spacing on the engine side as well.

the fan usually should be someway into it under normal conditions and not fully enveloped either.also ive seen some backwards fan blades LOL

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

@Stringer, I think you will find the replacement condenser is not exactly the same as the one in the truck. I my case, it was very similar... the AC connections were in the correct location and the physical size of the condenser was practically the same. What differed is the mounting points on the new condenser vs. on the old.

As you may find, the old condenser has rectangular brackets which in turn seat nicely into rectangular rubber isolator in the radiator support.

The new condenser may have (mine had) round-ish brackets, which in turn do not seat nicely into rectangular rubber isolator in the radiator support. I wound up using some pieces of PVC (i.e., sections cut from a length of pipe) placed around the brackets of the new condenser to make them effectively "bigger around", so they would fit more snugly into the rubber isolators on the radiator support.

 

[Stringer]

ok good info, thanks! still waiting on condensor to arrive should be here any time now.

hey with the back of the new sanden unit, what do i do with the electrical connector. move it to the new one somehow, or omit it?

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@Stringer, I think you will find the replacement condenser is not exactly the same as the one in the truck. I my case, it was very similar... the AC connections were in the correct location and the physical size of the condenser was practically the same. What differed is the mounting points on the new condenser vs. on the old.

As you may find, the old condenser has rectangular brackets which in turn seat nicely into rectangular rubber isolator in the radiator support.

The new condenser may have (mine had) round-ish brackets, which in turn do not seat nicely into rectangular rubber isolator in the radiator support. I wound up using some pieces of PVC (i.e., sections cut from a length of pipe) placed around the brackets of the new condenser to make them effectively "bigger around", so they would fit more snugly into the rubber isolators on the radiator support.

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

ok good info, thanks! still waiting on condensor to arrive should be here any time now.

hey with the back of the new sanden unit, what do i do with the electrical connector. move it to the new one somehow, or omit it?

You must be registered for see images attach

Pull that snap ring out on the new compressor, at the center, then the plug (BTW, vent the compressor first by loosening the port cap on top slowly, as it may be pressurized).

Do the same on the old compressor to remove the switch.

Clean the dirt and crap from the switch / body, and install with new O-ring (smudged with Nylog) in new compressor.

Or, install a new switch if you have one. I simply re-used mine, which might be poor procedure but it's what I did. That switch doesn't see much use and in my case was likely in a closed state its entire life.

 

[Stringer]

Pull that snap ring out on the new compressor, at the center, then the plug (BTW, vent the compressor first by loosening the port cap on top slowly, as it may be pressurized).

Do the same on the old compressor to remove the switch.

Clean the dirt and crap from the switch / body, and install with new O-ring (smudged with Nylog) in new compressor.

Or, install a new switch if you have one. I simply re-used mine, which might be poor procedure but it's what I did. That switch doesn't see much use and in my case was likely in a closed state its entire life.

thank you! i knew this new snap ring pliers set would come in handy.

i did buy an acdelco 15-2962 but it says "to accumulator" which i guess means attach to accumulater?

i also have a gpd 1711425 trying to figure out where that goes lol.

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

thank you! i knew this new snap ring pliers set would come in handy.

i did buy an acdelco 15-2962 but it says "to accumulator" which i guess means attach to accumulater?

Yes, that one goes on the accumulator. It's got an O-ring it it, smudge the O-ring with a little Nylog on all surfaces of the O-ring.

i also have a gpd 1711425 trying to figure out where that goes lol.

That switch mounts on the hoses' header, near where they bolt onto the compressor, on the high-pressure side. I think it has an O-ring too, so same Nylog process as with others.

 

[Stringer]

Yes, that one goes on the accumulator. It's got an O-ring it it, smudge the O-ring with a little Nylog on all surfaces of the O-ring.



That switch mounts on the hoses' header, near where they bolt onto the compressor, on the high-pressure side. I think it has an O-ring too, so same Nylog process as with others.

that's great, really appreciate the help with this.

im draining the oil in the compressor. label said it had 6.6oz but i drained out 7.1 and counting. also color wise it looks just like urine. the UAC "premium synthetic" pag oil i have is perfectly clear. its an 8oz bottle which i thought would make it easy to get just the right amount in.