1994 Sierra 1500 stalled in road and won't start

[simonphelps08]

Well, I got the truck to start! I actually thought I wasn't going to figure it out and I nearly gave up. But, I kept trying the things that you guys suggested and searched for a few of the things mentioned on youtube and it worked out. Through trial and error over the past couple days it ended up starting. I have one quick question and I want to explain what I did in case that changes the answer to my question.

I felt for compression. After feeling the pressure I lined up the markers. Then I made sure the distributor cap wasn't on too snug and with the keys in the truck (but not while it was running) I rotated the cap back and forth to find the exact spot spark one was firing. I got a clicking noise when the distributor cap was in the right spot. I tightened the distributor down. I unplugged the harness people have been mentioning and tried to start the truck. Interesting thing is the truck started immediately. The past 2 years every time I started the truck it would 1-2 seconds of turning the key before it started. This time it was literally immediately.

My questions are:

Can someone tell me if the timing light is still needed? DO I need to do this before I drive the truck again?
When do I plug the brown harness wire back in?

 

[Supercharged111]

The timing light is absolutely needed. Set base timing to 0 (factory) or slightly advanced from there. Once base timing is set you can plug the wire back in.

 

[simonphelps08]

The timing light is absolutely needed. Set base timing to 0 (factory) or slightly advanced from there. Once base timing is set you can plug the wire back in.

I hesitate to ask this question because it will remove all doubt to how ignorant I am. Put in dummy terms I want the line on the belt to be on the large notch aka 0.

1. start truck
2. let truck run to warm up
3 set the line to 0 (no advancing or anything?)
4 everything is good to go?

 

[Supercharged111]

I hesitate to ask this question because it will remove all doubt to how ignorant I am. Put in dummy terms I want the line on the belt to be on the large notch aka 0.

1. start truck
2. let truck run to warm up
3 set the line to 0 (no advancing or anything?)
4 everything is good to go?

There is no belt to set timing. Take a white paint marker and draw a line on the 0 mark on the crank dampener/balancer. It will be engraved as such. Next, just start the truck. With the wire unplugged advance is taken out of the equation. Rotate the distributor until the timing gun, when aimed at the timing pointer on the timing cover, shows 0. This may require reclocking it if it's off by a tooth. Once it's at zero, tighten it down, plug the wire back in, and you're done.

 

[Schurkey]

WHAT "Belt"???

You'd line-up the timing notch on the damper with the "0" mark on the timing pointer by turning distributor body.

Engine does not need to be "warm", just running.

Tighten distributor to lock-in timing. Verify that the timing didn't move when you tightened distributor. Shut off engine.

Re-connect 1-wire connector so that electronic advance is enabled.

Start engine, make sure timing is many degrees advanced from "0" now that the one-wire connector has been reconnected.

Remove timing light, have a beer. You're done.

 

[Supercharged111]

WHAT "Belt"???

You'd line-up the timing notch on the damper with the "0" mark on the timing pointer by turning distributor body.

Engine does not need to be "warm", just running.

Tighten distributor to lock-in timing. Verify that the timing didn't move when you tightened distributor. Shut off engine.

Re-connect 1-wire connector so that electronic advance is enabled.

Start engine, make sure timing is many degrees advanced from "0" now that the one-wire connector has been reconnected.

Remove timing light, have a beer. You're done.

Why wait until the job is done to crack a beer?

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

 

[Schurkey]

Yeah, OK, my logic is faulty when beer is concerned.

I still wanna see a photo of this mysterious "belt".

 

[Nad_Yvalhosert]

OP is conflating the belt and the harmonic damper. In his mind they're one and the same. From now on, if he types "belt", think "damper & pully"

OP. Serp belt goes around a pully. Pully bolts to harmonic damper. Damper has a groove. Timing marker has 1 deep notch that denotes 0°. Line up the groove with the notch with the timing light as described above.

ʻAʻole pilikia, buddy

 

[letitsnow]

Well, I got the truck to start! I actually thought I wasn't going to figure it out and I nearly gave up. But, I kept trying the things that you guys suggested and searched for a few of the things mentioned on youtube and it worked out. Through trial and error over the past couple days it ended up starting. I have one quick question and I want to explain what I did in case that changes the answer to my question.

I felt for compression. After feeling the pressure I lined up the markers. Then I made sure the distributor cap wasn't on too snug and with the keys in the truck (but not while it was running) I rotated the cap back and forth to find the exact spot spark one was firing. I got a clicking noise when the distributor cap was in the right spot. I tightened the distributor down. I unplugged the harness people have been mentioning and tried to start the truck. Interesting thing is the truck started immediately. The past 2 years every time I started the truck it would 1-2 seconds of turning the key before it started. This time it was literally immediately.

My questions are:

Can someone tell me if the timing light is still needed? DO I need to do this before I drive the truck again?
When do I plug the brown harness wire back in?

If you are willing to get your hands dirty, the people on this forum can help you through any problem with these trucks. It sure makes life easier.