1991 350 TBI Maintenance

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tsr2185

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Hello all! New to the website, and GMT trucks.

I will be purchasing a 1991 k1500 SC step side, w/ 267k on the odometer. It has a "new" motor put in it in 2013 and only has ~15k miles on it. The transmission was also changed out before, I don't know when though. It wont be a daily driver, but occasionally i want to do a 4hr road trip with it across state for work.

My question is, what are the priorities to check/maintain/replace as soon as I purchase the truck? Also, what spare tools/parts should I keep in the truck? I do want to keep it all stock for the time being, until the motor/transmission needs replacement.

Thanks for any input

,tyler

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kenh

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To be safe at least change the engine oil. Pull the dip stick on the trans and see if the oil is very dark or smells like burnt oil. If it does pull the trans pan and see what you have. If there is a lot of clutch material and/or metal filings then the trans needs serviced/rebuilt. You could also flush the radiator. Check the steering for excess play in the joints. Same with the ball joints. How do the tires look? That will give a clue to the health of the steering and ball joints.

Ken
 

Schurkey

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My question is, what are the priorities to check/maintain/replace as soon as I purchase the truck?
First priority is ALWAYS "Safety".
Brakes, Suspension, (including rubber bushings) Steering, Tires
Check brakes for lining wear and contamination, rotor/drum condition, fluid condition, brake hose and metal tube condition. If the brake fluid looks dark, flush it and consider cleaning-up or replacing the caliper pistons /seals and wheel cylinder pistons/seals.
All the suspension and steering joints--ball joints, tie rod ends, Pitman arm, Idler arm, steering gear and rag joint, etc. Rag joint problems are epidemic. You can expect the control arm bushings to be wiped-out. I prefer Polyurethane replacement bushing inserts, but sometimes it's just easier to replace the entire control arm--new bushings, new ball joint all in one shot. Apply chassis grease to all grease zerks including any on the driveshaft.

Make sure the spare tire has appropriate air pressure, and the spare tire winch works.

AFTER you have verified all the above, consider replacing all the rubber parts aside from the tires and suspension bushings--serpentine belt, coolant/heater hoses, maybe PS hoses, flush coolant, flush PS, add a 20-oz bottle of Techron to the gas tank.

From there, verify all the usual "tune-up" items--plugs, wires, cap 'n' rotor, base timing, timing advance, fuel filter, air filter, PCV system, charcoal canister, fuel pressure, etc.

As said--look at trans fluid, consider trans fluid change with cooler flush. (about 15 quarts of fluid, plus filter and gasket.)

Verify fluid levels--or better yet, drain and re-fill--front and rear differential, transfer case with proper fluid.

Assure battery, alternator, starter, and wire harness connecting them are in good condition.

Finally, connect a REAL scan tool to verify sensors, actuators, misfire, operating temperature, EGR operation, O2 cross-counts. The only computer sensor that needs regular replacement is the O2 sensor. The scan tool can also assist with ABS, air bag, perhaps the trans and instrument cluster depending on the vehicle.


Also, what spare tools/parts should I keep in the truck?
Credit card, cell 'phone, and the OEM tire-change jack tools. Any failure you have "on the road" beyond road hazard or contaminated fuel, is really a failure to inspect and repair AT HOME.
 
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97C1500TJ

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I’d change all the fluids in the motor along with the trans and diff to start out. Grease all of your fittings. Check your hoses for leaks and replace as needed.

For tools, I’d keep a basic mechanic’s tool set if you’re cheap like me and don’t want to pay for roadside assistance. It doesn’t have to be expensive to save your tail. A cheap Harbor Freight set got me home from a gas station one night.
 

tsr2185

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Wow guys!

Thanks for all the awesome info, exactly what i needed!

I will travel 2 states over in 2 weeks to pick it up. I was gonna attempt driving it back, but i think that will be too big of a chance to take before I thoroughly go over the vehicle. So I will rent a Uhaul car trailer. I will purchase it regardless, I feel that this truck is a great deal even if it didn't run. I work with the guy, and it was his grandfather's (original owner). He's giving me a great deal, and has ALL the maintenance paperwork/records since 1991.

Thoughts on vehicle condition, from the pictures in OP and provided info?
 

Schurkey

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Why is the rear wheel not centered in the wheel opening? Looks like the axle is pushed forward.

Optical illusion, or real? Looks like the rear axle is too wide, tire sticking out beyond the fender.
 

Erik the Awful

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If you replace the serpentine belt, and the old belt has a few cracks, but isn't garbage, put it behind the seat for emergency use. The ignition control module is another recommended spare to keep on hand.
 

smdk2500

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Why is the rear wheel not centered in the wheel opening? Looks like the axle is pushed forward.

Optical illusion, or real? Looks like the rear axle is too wide, tire sticking out beyond the fender.
I think its a optical illusion. I think its because its a stepside. I see where your seeing it looks off centerned but to me the rear tire also looks bigger then the front.
 

tsr2185

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Yea im sure its just the picture.

Is it worth buying all new injectors, distributor cap, spark plugs etc just to cover all bases in the electrical/fuel system? or that does not guaranteed a new part will fail just as soon as a old one? He sent me this picture a few days ago. Says everything mechanically is sound, just aesthetics. He has no reason to lie to me, he really doesn't have to sell the truck. The injector clip is broke, but he said it still has good spray. Is this typical of the TBI to look this dirty?

Excuse my ignorance....

Thinking of purchasing the following:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1144949&cc=1050882&jsn=9
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5614320&cc=1050882&jsn=10

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