10K possible with a 4.3 and NV3500?

[strikk]

Send it, let us know how it goes

 

[L29Sub]

The point is moot. With 3/42 diff the clutch will be gone first trip.
The tongue weight will require WD hitch. The NV3500 will work OK if healthy and clutch doesn't chatter. You'll be pulling in 4th on flat and 2-3rd the rest of the time.
Very slow.
You'll be dependent on trailer brakes working. Trailer brakes fail, no stop.
Stop on an uphill grade and it likely will cook the clutch before pulling off..
You'll need air suspension. Talking 1k (plus) tongue weight.
It might move the load, but not far.
Nothing about your situation is safe, or useful.
If your trailer is not a camper, check you weight/tag state regs for GVWR limits. Camper trailers slip thru this rule.
Trade the truck for a 2500 or 3500 with 4L80e. Be happy forever after.
IMHO....YMMV

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[VIKING_MECHANIC]

Let me clarify a few thing since some of you seemed confused.

What I have in mind to tow is a mini excavator and mini skid steer. Most of those I've looked at are between 2K - 7K with the addition of my trailer at ~2500, will put me right at 10K MAX. (if BOTH are over ~8K together, I'd have to tow one at a time to the job site)

I am NOT planning on towing 10K 24/7 - 365, but enough to make some money on the side.

I'm fairly confident the engine is more than enough to pull that much since it's basically new. The transmission I'm having built to handle this sort of weight, besides the 3500 was WAY under - rated from the factory on what it can do.

The clutch will be fine. I don't have extreme hills in my area.

The whole idea I have is to create something unique - nothing else like it out there. Yes, I may be better off with a 2500/3500 frame but until my needs get to that point, I'll stay with the 1500.

Some of the things I want to highlight since most of you glossed over it: BEFORE I get to this point; I will replace the rear springs with ones with 4/1 starting out. Add a weight distribution hitch, rear axle swap from an 2500, probably front calipers and anything else that could help.

I haven't seen any definitive differences between the 15/25/35 frames. The links I've found on here are broken(from what I've seen) and I'm not getting specific specs for the 88-98 platform when I google it. So I guess I'll make a trip to my local scrap yard for a comparison.

Before I start any of this, I will take the truck and trailer to a scale for a baseline.

An with my current frame, I will at some point weld cross bracing front and rear to help keep the frame from flexing and swaying side-to-side.

And I don't need a lecture on loading trailers; I've been loading trailers of all sizes(53', 48', 45', 20', 18', etc.) for the last 10 years. And yes I have moved these around so I know how the feel.

 

[VIKING_MECHANIC]

The point is moot. With 3/42 diff the clutch will be gone first trip.
The tongue weight will require WD hitch. The NV3500 will work OK if healthy and clutch doesn't chatter. You'll be pulling in 4th on flat and 2-3rd the rest of the time.
Very slow.
You'll be dependent on trailer brakes working. Trailer brakes fail, no stop.
Stop on an uphill grade and it likely will cook the clutch before pulling off..
You'll need air suspension. Talking 1k (plus) tongue weight.
It might move the load, but not far.
Nothing about your situation is safe, or useful.
If your trailer is not a camper, check you weight/tag state regs for GVWR limits. Camper trailers slip thru this rule.
Trade the truck for a 2500 or 3500 with 4L80e. Be happy forever after.
IMHO....YMMV

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

I said I will replace the 3.42 with 4.10. The clutch will be fine.
I will not use air suspension. Not risking the air bags getting punctured or exploding if overloaded.
Just because it's no useful to you, doesn't mean it's not useful to me.
A 4L80E will never match the capabilities of the NV3500 or any other manual for that matter.

 

[stutaeng]

Let me clarify a few thing since some of you seemed confused.

What I have in mind to tow is a mini excavator and mini skid steer. Most of those I've looked at are between 2K - 7K with the addition of my trailer at ~2500, will put me right at 10K MAX. (if BOTH are over ~8K together, I'd have to tow one at a time to the job site)

I am NOT planning on towing 10K 24/7 - 365, but enough to make some money on the side.

I'm fairly confident the engine is more than enough to pull that much since it's basically new. The transmission I'm having built to handle this sort of weight, besides the 3500 was WAY under - rated from the factory on what it can do.

The clutch will be fine. I don't have extreme hills in my area.

The whole idea I have is to create something unique - nothing else like it out there. Yes, I may be better off with a 2500/3500 frame but until my needs get to that point, I'll stay with the 1500.

Some of the things I want to highlight since most of you glossed over it: BEFORE I get to this point; I will replace the rear springs with ones with 4/1 starting out. Add a weight distribution hitch, rear axle swap from an 2500, probably front calipers and anything else that could help.

I haven't seen any definitive differences between the 15/25/35 frames. The links I've found on here are broken(from what I've seen) and I'm not getting specific specs for the 88-98 platform when I google it. So I guess I'll make a trip to my local scrap yard for a comparison.

Before I start any of this, I will take the truck and trailer to a scale for a baseline.

An with my current frame, I will at some point weld cross bracing front and rear to help keep the frame from flexing and swaying side-to-side.

And I don't need a lecture on loading trailers; I've been loading trailers of all sizes(53', 48', 45', 20', 18', etc.) for the last 10 years. And yes I have moved these around so I know how the feel.

Dang, I was going to suggest if you are really serious, then start with a FRAME SWAP!

Yes, there is a huge difference between the 1500/2500/3500 frames. I have posted some section properties on frames on previous posts, as well as posted links to literature. Do an advanced search on my username. I'm sure you could find them.

In "round numbers" I believe another member stated

frames basically come in 3/16, 1/4, and 5/16 thickness. It also depends on the cab configuration, with crew cabs getting the thicker ones.

As for leafs, just find a 8 lug junkyard truck and swap those. The 2500/ srw3500 are 6 leaf packs and I think they will fit into the 1500. Might as well swap a 14 bolt for the 10 bolt because those won't take that abuse. Full floater of course.

There's also a hydroboost swap that get you much better braking power. You will also want the larger brake rotors and pads up front.

On the SBC Vortec 2500/3500 series, the engines were 4 bolt mains. I'm certain the 4.3 is a 2 bolt main. Not sure if that matters.

I'm not familiar with the manual transmission, but in the automatic world you would be swapping the 4L60 to 4l80, so I guess your transmission is fine.

For the engine, a engine oil cooler and p.s. cooler. The autos have tranny coolers. Not sure on the manuals.

I'm sure you know about the P-series vs LT rating, so add tires to the list.

I think that covers everything. Don't forget the "BUILT NOT BOUGHT" bumper stickers!

BTW, some Express vans 2500 came with 4.3/4l80s. May want to look at the options on those.

 

[L29Sub]

Ain't quite there yet.
Now we're going commercial equipment. Insurance and state will dictate what "overweight" means.
WTF. Try it and post pics.

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[Hipster]

Ain't quite there yet.
Now we're going commercial equipment. Insurance and state will dictate what "overweight" means.
WTF. Try it and post pics.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Next thread "Let me clarify, D.O.T. impounded my stuff on the roadside" LOL

 

[VIKING_MECHANIC]

Ain't quite there yet.
Now we're going commercial equipment. Insurance and state will dictate what "overweight" means.
WTF. Try it and post pics.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

No, not quite there. Be a while before I get to this point.
This won't be commercial. Personal use only. Won't be making enough to consider this a business.
Before I even start on the truck, got to fix the trailer to fit my needs. Starting with the jack that isn't quite up to the task of holding the trailer up. Put a new deck on it and wire in the brakes into the main harness. Will post pictures of how bad it is later when I get home.

 

[VIKING_MECHANIC]

Next thread "Let me clarify, D.O.T. impounded my stuff on the roadside" LOL

Luckily I'm in AR where they don't really mess with you UNLESS you look like you're overweight.
Only DOT scales I have are ~40 miles south of me and ~10 north of me.
I've read if you have "Not For Hire" on the side of your truck and pass by a scale, you have a 50/50% of getting a ticket versus 100% if you drive into the scale.

 

[skylark]

Let me clarify a few thing since some of you seemed confused.

What I have in mind to tow is a mini excavator and mini skid steer. Most of those I've looked at are between 2K - 7K with the addition of my trailer at ~2500, will put me right at 10K MAX. (if BOTH are over ~8K together, I'd have to tow one at a time to the job site)

I am NOT planning on towing 10K 24/7 - 365, but enough to make some money on the side.

I'm fairly confident the engine is more than enough to pull that much since it's basically new. The transmission I'm having built to handle this sort of weight, besides the 3500 was WAY under - rated from the factory on what it can do.

The clutch will be fine. I don't have extreme hills in my area.

The whole idea I have is to create something unique - nothing else like it out there. Yes, I may be better off with a 2500/3500 frame but until my needs get to that point, I'll stay with the 1500.

Some of the things I want to highlight since most of you glossed over it: BEFORE I get to this point; I will replace the rear springs with ones with 4/1 starting out. Add a weight distribution hitch, rear axle swap from an 2500, probably front calipers and anything else that could help.

I haven't seen any definitive differences between the 15/25/35 frames. The links I've found on here are broken(from what I've seen) and I'm not getting specific specs for the 88-98 platform when I google it. So I guess I'll make a trip to my local scrap yard for a comparison.

Before I start any of this, I will take the truck and trailer to a scale for a baseline.

An with my current frame, I will at some point weld cross bracing front and rear to help keep the frame from flexing and swaying side-to-side.

And I don't need a lecture on loading trailers; I've been loading trailers of all sizes(53', 48', 45', 20', 18', etc.) for the last 10 years. And yes I have moved these around so I know how the feel.

I said I will replace the 3.42 with 4.10. The clutch will be fine.
I will not use air suspension. Not risking the air bags getting punctured or exploding if overloaded.
Just because it's no useful to you, doesn't mean it's not useful to me.
A 4L80E will never match the capabilities of the NV3500 or any other manual for that matter.

No, not quite there. Be a while before I get to this point.
This won't be commercial. Personal use only. Won't be making enough to consider this a business.
Before I even start on the truck, got to fix the trailer to fit my needs. Starting with the jack that isn't quite up to the task of holding the trailer up. Put a new deck on it and wire in the brakes into the main harness. Will post pictures of how bad it is later when I get home.

I'm going to be quite blunt here. In that you know everything and are obviously refusing all advice, why did you bother to post about your situation?