Regarding the windows, one option I did not see mentioned that I have seen in person and liked was tucked up at the very top of the wall under the eaves. Let's in tons of light, but very little heat and is basically impervious to burglars. The only real limitation I could see was that they would have to be more difficult to clean up there, but a ton of dirt probably isn't wafting up there in the first place.
Thanks. That’s a good idea, especially in an area with security concerns. Fortunately, we live at the end of a ½ mile long gravel drive, in a rural farm community. Plus we have an outside dog that would dissuade anyone having ill intent. Burglary hasn’t been a problem here, and I don’t anticipate it becoming one. Also, I like being able to see out of the windows, and have repositioned one of them so that I’ll be able to look out onto the adjacent pasture while at the workbench.
I don't recall if you've addressed the interior lighting yet. 100 lumens per square foot would be the minimum I would plan for with all fixtures on. Someone else mentioned putting the lighting on multiple switches so you don't have to have everything on all the time. I have done this in a building larger than you have planned and it was a great idea. You may wish to consider if the benefit would outweigh the complexity in your planned implementation.
Good idea. The lighting has been discussed a fair amount, although I don‘t recall settling on a lumen/sf figure. 100 sounds good.
I’m leaning toward a combination of ”tube type” LEDs and ”corncob” LED fixtures. Putting them on multiple circuits makes a lot of sense. That means more wiring, of course, but since I’ll be doing most of the wiring, I don’t mind putting in extra circuits. I believe it would be worth the additional time and expense of doing so.
Is that base rail hot dipped galvanized, stainless, or aluminum? If not, I would worry about rust in the not too distant future.
That’s a good point. The frame, including the base rail, is galvanized, although I don’t know by which process. I upgraded the tubing from 14 ga to 12 ga, and it will carry a 20 year warranty against rust through. I‘ll have to ask the sales rep about the galvanizing process.
The plan is to put down a sealer between the base rail and the concrete. Combined with the outside curb detail, it should keep water away from the base rail.
If you haven't purchased the lift yet, I would like to draw your attention to this if you are not already familiar:
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It is not an asymmetric replacement for someone planning to remove bodies from frames. For 95%+ of mechanic jobs, it works great. The number one benefit is it stores completely out of the way. With a couple sheets of plywood it makes a great adjustable height work bench or loading dock (one of my favorite uses). It is also easily modified so that only one side is in motion at a time or to make each side move independently. I'm not endorsing the particular model/manufacturer in the video - it is used only for illustrative purposes. Rotary and other US manufacturers offer similar style lifts if you prefer to source domestically.
Thanks for posting that video - that installation is seriously cool! I like the fact that it stores out of the way completely.
As the guy stated in the video, a two post lift is always in the way, to a certain extent. I just figured it was something I’d have to live with.
The main vehicle I plan to lift is my ‘96 K2500 Suburban, which tips the scales at 5500 lbs empty. Based on what I’ve read so far, a 10000 lbs capacity lift is the preferred size. I’m not sure that much capacity is available in a scissors lift. Then again, maybe the weight ratings for scissors lifts are derived differently from those of two post lifts. I don’t know.
The major consideration is that the cost for a scissors lift is significantly higher than a 10000 lb. two post lift; and we’re now at the point in this project where any additional dollars are being closely scrutinized. The budget is already blown (surprise!), mainly due to the extra cost of tree and stump removal. Taking out the two 90+ foot tall pine trees was about $1500. Removing the stumps will take another $1200, because the contractor has to rent a larger excavator to do the job. Plus the pad itself will be a couple of thousand $$ more than I had budgeted.
Anyway, thanks for your suggestions and taking the time to make them!