The Official Vortec 454 Info thread

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Mangonesailor

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FPR or injectors.

Best to just do it all in one shot. If you've got a race shop that'll do your work for you, and perhaps a machine shop, they could install a regulator downstream of your stock regulator and that'd be the end of that cartridge. It wouldn't matter what the factory regulator tried to do to regulate pressure, the downstream one would be the master.

A machine shop could machine a blank for you out of aluminum or brass that you could just pop in like the factory regulator and never have to worry about it. It'd be much more serviceable that way.
 

RichardSwinger

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Ok gentleman, I've got the Bosch 4 hole injectors from 50 motorsport, I've got the ac delco FPR, and I've got the upper and lower felpro gaskets. Sure enough, my local speed shop is the only place that would agree to touch it; GMC dealership flat out told me they don't have anyone that knows that engine anymore [emoji1787].

So now I'm wondering... What about the fuel rail? I'd hate to have the shop be elbows deep in the job and need this unobtanium fuel rail. The dealership gave me a part number 17120039 but said it was discontinued. Is this something that should be replaced while the intake is off? Is there a "performance/upgrade" fuel rail anyone has used? It's not going to be a race truck, once I get everything mechanically squared away I MIGHT do cat back exhaust and a blackbear black box tune. What do you guys think?

(I really hope this helps the hot start/fuel smell problems and hopefully improves the 10MPG she's been getting. The distributor, plug wires, plugs, and "map" sensor which I think means MAF sensor are all new per the mechanic invoice for work done on the truck right before I got it)

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Dravec

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Ok gentleman, I've got the Bosch 4 hole injectors from 50 motorsport, I've got the ac delco FPR, and I've got the upper and lower felpro gaskets. Sure enough, my local speed shop is the only place that would agree to touch it; GMC dealership flat out told me they don't have anyone that knows that engine anymore [emoji1787].

So now I'm wondering... What about the fuel rail? I'd hate to have the shop be elbows deep in the job and need this unobtanium fuel rail. The dealership gave me a part number 17120039 but said it was discontinued. Is this something that should be replaced while the intake is off? Is there a "performance/upgrade" fuel rail anyone has used? It's not going to be a race truck, once I get everything mechanically squared away I MIGHT do cat back exhaust and a blackbear black box tune. What do you guys think?

(I really hope this helps the hot start/fuel smell problems and hopefully improves the 10MPG she's been getting. The distributor, plug wires, plugs, and "map" sensor which I think means MAF sensor are all new per the mechanic invoice for work done on the truck right before I got it)

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

I vaguely remember reading about someone testing the fuel rail off of the Ram Jet 502 as a replacement. Don't recall if it worked.
 

Carlaisle

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Although plastic, the fuel rail is remarkably durable. There's no need to replace it. It's available aftermarket if you do need it. The 502 fuel rail will work, but it's not plug and play. What kind of mileage are you hoping to achieve? You're not likely to see much better than 10 in city driving.
 

Erik the Awful

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Sure enough, my local speed shop is the only place that would agree to touch it; GMC dealership flat out told me they don't have anyone that knows that engine anymore
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.
The average dealership technician stays in the field four years. They're pumping them through Vo-Tech schools as fast as they can, but once they're at a dealership they get shafted at every turn. It doesn't take long for them to jump ship. Dealerships used to be the place where you went to get the most professional service, but now it's beginning technicians whose experience has been pipelined into one speciality.[/rant]
 

Christian Steffen

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Ok gentleman, I've got the Bosch 4 hole injectors from 50 motorsport, I've got the ac delco FPR, and I've got the upper and lower felpro gaskets. Sure enough, my local speed shop is the only place that would agree to touch it; GMC dealership flat out told me they don't have anyone that knows that engine anymore [emoji1787].

So now I'm wondering... What about the fuel rail? I'd hate to have the shop be elbows deep in the job and need this unobtanium fuel rail. The dealership gave me a part number 17120039 but said it was discontinued. Is this something that should be replaced while the intake is off? Is there a "performance/upgrade" fuel rail anyone has used? It's not going to be a race truck, once I get everything mechanically squared away I MIGHT do cat back exhaust and a blackbear black box tune. What do you guys think?

(I really hope this helps the hot start/fuel smell problems and hopefully improves the 10MPG she's been getting. The distributor, plug wires, plugs, and "map" sensor which I think means MAF sensor are all new per the mechanic invoice for work done on the truck right before I got it)

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+1 for not replacing the rail, I've had mine out several times and managed to not break it. lol

I also highly recommend a tune from someone, Blackbear is probably the biggest mail order tuner for these so I don't think you can go wrong there.
 

Dravec

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Just a shame that Vortec454.com is gone. The guy that built that site had some great info on injector compatability, including a couple of F*#& injectors amongst the numerous LS injectors. And also on the K2500/K3500 to Silverado 2500HD brake swap. And maybe a couple of other things. Can't remember it all. That site's been gone for about 5 or 6 years now.
 

someotherguy

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Ya just gotta be really careful prying off the metal clips that hold the injectors to the rail, because the plastic tabs break easily. Yeah, you can zip-tie the clips back on with success if you think about it a little bit.. just treat it like what it is at this point, couple decades-old plastic that has been exposed to extreme heat, cold, and filled with fuel...

It may not be super obvious, but they're looped through the holes in the clip:
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Richard
 

Carlaisle

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Also be careful of those metal clips. They're fairly sturdy, but treat them like something that cannot be replaced. They are not available new from anyone anywhere. A small, thin blade screwdriver is all you need to remove them. Two the same size is easiest.
 
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