Andy’s 1995 CCLB 7.4L TBI to Vortec Swap

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andy396

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Come back another day. Check for power to the coil. That's good. Pull the dash back out and decide to work on the horn. Realize that where I added my ground wire for the doors is also tied to the new wire they added to make the horn go beep when you hit the remote lock button. Remember, I'm still going with the '95 remote lock module. Bypass that pin and just connect that wire to the rest of the wire that heads out to the the horn relay. Put the dash back in and no more horn blaring...yah.
 

andy396

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Next, I decide to try to check the spark again, but this time put the timing light on the coil wire. Get lots of spark this time! I don't know what I was doing wrong the first time, maybe I just didn't crank long enough or my battery connector fell off or something. I don't know and don't care at this point. While cranking this time I get a huge backfire through the intake.

Yup, put the distributor in 180 degrees off. Did I mention I'm an amateur? o_O

Flip it around and give it one more try. It fires up I let it only for a few seconds since I didn't add antifreeze or power steering fluid yet. Feeling like I'm on the downhill now I call it a night.
 

andy396

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At some point in between all of this, I did use our pump priming rig on it to make sure I was getting enough oil pressure to engage the fuel pump relay. I think I got about 10ish psi. I had my son looking while I ran the drill, so it's a approximate reading.
 

andy396

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I also figured out that the lack of communication was coming from the ABS unit. I can't explain this one.
 

JCribb

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Not sure what you mean by VIN locked? but they are programmed with the VIN in them, but if you aren't getting emissions tested it doesn't matter.

VIN locked means that it disables key power by activating the security perimeters thereby locking the pcm.
 

andy396

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Hearing it run had me somewhat excited that I'm back on the downhill. I add antifreeze and power steering fluid and give it another try. This time it runs but it's missing terribly. It won't run for more than maybe 3-5 seconds. It's also making a lot of valve train noise. The heads were surfaced and the valves cut. Since the valvetrain isn't adjustable, maybe it's causing the lifters to hold the valves open? Pull the plugs and do a compression test. Good compression on every cylinder, but it doesn't seem to be giving consistent pulses. That's really weird. Definitely warrants pulling the valve cover and taking a look.

This is the part where it gets really embarrassing.
 
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