What to do with rear end?

[someotherguy]

4 pages later and I don't believe anybody has mentioned this advice yet, so I'll do it:

What to do with rear end?

Shake it like a Polaroid picture...

You're welcome

Richard

 

[Schurkey]

It makes me wonder if maybe GM dealerships were using a particularly crappy formula of RTV at one time. Maybe they changed their RTV and the gear oil stayed the same.

Not the dealerships--the axle manufacturer AAM.

But the problem with the RTV Silicone wasn't with the conventional oil--it was with the synthetic.

How many people are using RTV from 1998? If that's the only variable then I'd say to hell with it. What a lame ass thing to cause a lube formula change. Use different RTV.

Again, there's no information about compatibility; this might apply to ALL RTV silicone, or it might apply only to the stuff AAM was using at the time. Similarly, it might apply to ALL synthetic gear lube; or it might apply only to the stuff AAM was using at the time.

 

[df2x4]

But the problem with the RTV Silicone wasn't with the conventional oil--it was with the synthetic.

You're right, I spaced that part completely. I was pretty tired when I last looked over this. I suspect that the warning was originally put on those bottles of 10-4051 for a similar reason though.

Regardless, the fact that the warning is omitted on the newer bottles of the ACDelco 10-4051 (and it meets all the specs in the GM G80 TSB) is enough for me. It's working great in both of my '97s. I'll continue to use and recommend it until I see evidence of a reason not to do so.

 

[Jrowdy]

Updates coming in a little bit but a few questions.
1. The u bolts any special spec?
(Can I just pick up some stainless ones from the hardware store? )at least 9/16s
2. Best place to get the u joint conversion as well as the fluid?
(Acdelco 10-4051)
3. How much fluid do I need? The 14 bolt I picked up is empty.
4. When changing the gears in the front,(sounds complicated) would it be any easier or beneficial to just install a new front differential with 4.10 gears.
5. Any ideas on paint for the leaf springs? Things to keep in mind?
Plan to wire wheel them and a coat of black rustoleum .
6. Where to start looking for the 4.10 gears ?

 

[Schurkey]

Updates coming in a little bit but a few questions.
1. The u bolts any special spec?
(Can I just pick up some stainless ones from the hardware store? )at least 9/16s

If stainless U-bolts are anything like ordinary bolts and machine screws, you DO NOT WANT stainless. It's weak (about Grade 2; although the better stuff is almost Grade 5 equivalent) and the threads tend to gall.

2. Best place to get the u joint conversion as well as the fluid?
(Acdelco 10-4051)
3. How much fluid do I need? The 14 bolt I picked up is empty.

Any auto parts store will have or be able to order the U-joint.
I"d buy 3 quart bottles of fluid. Amazon or any place that sells AC-Delco.

4. When changing the gears in the front,(sounds complicated) would it be any easier or beneficial to just install a new front differential with 4.10 gears.

Yes.

 

[Jrowdy]

Got the 10 bolt out of the way! And picked up the 14 bolt yesterday. $500
Now I will be looking to get the old leaf springs and the new rear end all painted up. Any ideas on how to sand the rear end are welcome. How much is a sandblaster?

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[AirMdwn]

I usually spend some time and wire wheel the axles I work on. A little time and a good cleaning after will make them look good. Also, a little cheaper than a sand blaster.
My buddy picked up a cheap blaster gun for $20 then spent twice that on the media, then scrapped the plan because 10 minutes into the cleaning, there was media everywhere. Figured the blaster is not worth the mess.
Long story short, I would go with the wire wheel. Just my .02
Then paint with a good enamel paint.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Rust-Oleum...Spray-Paint-Actual-Net-Contents-15-oz/3729781
But I've noticed the flat black gets dirty and is harder to keep clean vs the gloss blacks

 

[Supercharged111]

Damn, $500? I got mine for like $120. Would gladly pay in the 200-300 range though. Looks a ton cleaner than the 10 bolt. Check the brakes while you're in there. Personally, I'd do axle seals and gear oil at a minimum.

 

[Schurkey]

Grit from the sand blaster will go EVERYWHERE. You MUST seal the rear cover and the vent tube; and any other possible opening into the axle. For fukk sakes, DO NOT even think about sandblasting the internal parts including the inside of the housing.

When it was me, I wire-brushed the mounts and called it good.

 

[Ben Barrow]

Updates coming in a little bit but a few questions.
1. The u bolts any special spec?
(Can I just pick up some stainless ones from the hardware store? )at least 9/16s
2. Best place to get the u joint conversion as well as the fluid?
(Acdelco 10-4051)
3. How much fluid do I need? The 14 bolt I picked up is empty.
4. When changing the gears in the front,(sounds complicated) would it be any easier or beneficial to just install a new front differential with 4.10 gears.
5. Any ideas on paint for the leaf springs? Things to keep in mind?
Plan to wire wheel them and a coat of black rustoleum .
6. Where to start looking for the 4.10 gears ?

1. You have to make sure the u-bolts are the right width for the brackets that go under the axle I believe. When I did mine, I did the u-bolt flip since the axle came with the flipped bracket.
2. I think I ordered my u joint from autozone or something like that
3. Mine took 4 bottles of fluid to be completely full.
4. It would be a lot easier to just get a used front diff with the right gears.
5. I attached a pic for how I painted my springs
6. I got motive gears off ebay

I wouldn’t get a cheap sandblasted. I wire wheeled my whole rear end and it turned out fine and didn’t take too long

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