What electric fan setup?

[L31MaxExpress]

My big gripe with the factory fan on the 1500 was how hot the AC got in traffic. With the 3500 I just deal with it. I need the cooling the fan offers at speed for as heavy as I haul with it.

Mine cools better in traffic with the mechanical fan blade. 25% underdrive on the crank and an early duramax blade. You can hear the fan pulling air even with the clutch freewheeling. At idle it will suck a piece of paper a foot away into the grille. Pulls a massive amount of air.

With both blowers cranked up on high fan speed and using recirculate mine blows about 40-42°F on a 105°F day at idle. Thats with a 10 year old 25% underdriven aftermarket replacement Valeo compressor. On the highway I have seen it get down to 33-34°F. I replaced the cycling switch on the accumulator with the older style that was adjustable and played with the cutout pressure. It will actually start picking up frost on the accumulator lines before the clutch cycles. My low side hoses are completely insulated and I insulated the plastic box under the hood. I bought a new GM accumulator insulating blanket as well. Also added a ball valve as a hot water shut-off in the hose between the intake manifold and water manifold that splits to the front and rear heater cores. It had the factory vacuum contolled 4 port heater diverter on the front core and a vacuum controlled 2 port for the rear but neither completely cut the hot water flow off. I did everything possible to keep heat out of the low side a/c plumbing and from transfering through the thin abs plastic a/c box. Also have tinted glass all the way around.

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[Supercharged111]

Do you have a 195 stat? I run a 180. Temp would also creep with the stock fan. It never overheated, but would get over the 210 mark on the stock gauge.

 

[Jglew82]

I've looked around and cant find one a good picture of them. I want it to breathe from the fender hole as intended from factory. so far i dont have any complaints from my setup as it uses the oem filter and box.

I also used a 6.5 TD air box (high capacity) and a $40 cheap ebay cold air kit for my swap. Here's how I did it. (Side note, I also used the stock 6.0 mechanical fan, which fits perfectly in the GMT400 shroud.)

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[brian c lindsey]

you might try flex-a-lite , 5500 cfm https://www.amazon.com/Flex-lite-28...keywords=flexalite+fan&qid=1580917002&sr=8-50

 

[Gojira94]

I thought I'd share my search for a good dual fan setup. 92 C1500 ext. cab/ 2WD with 28"x19" core radiator. I trolled the local pick and pull with a tape measure and looked at a very broad range of foreign and domestic vehicles. This is a dual 13" shroud/fan assembly from a 2008 Chrysler Sebring Touring with a 2.7l V6 on a spare radiator I have. I haven't found the exact specs on them but they're probably 2500cfm range and pull about 28A together wide open. The plastic piece at the top is part of the shroud assembly and must be removed to get the assembly off the radiator in the donor car. I put it back on before cashing out, thinking it might be useful to tie the upper support solution to the shroud and cover those last 2 rows at the top, which is maybe 1 1/4."

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I'm planning to use a Derale 16795 PWM controller for them. I have EBL but it's really meant to control one fan at on/off points with no soft start. I wanted to update the alternator to 140A right away but Alternator Man is out of the Iceberg rear case parts at the moment. I'm only running a stereo that pulls about 8-10A anyway.

 

[Supercharged111]

Any reason why the want for a PWM controller? Me personally when the engine hits a certain temperature I don't want it going past that at all.

 

[Casey Price]

Why not something like this?

https://www.jegs.com/i/Derale/259/19917/10002/-1

 

[kennythewelder]

Why not something like this?

https://www.jegs.com/i/Derale/259/19917/10002/-1

Flex fans are garbage. Dont waste your money. There are a ton of these videos on you tube, here is just a few.

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[RDF1]

Any reason why the want for a PWM controller? Me personally when the engine hits a certain temperature I don't want it going past that at all.

I can kinda see the reason for PWM. Fans only turn as fast as they need to for it to keep cool.
But a 3 relay series-parallel system works just fine for me. Haven't had the need to change it up.

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[TheAutumnWind]

I thought I'd share my search for a good dual fan setup. 92 C1500 ext. cab/ 2WD with 28"x19" core radiator. I trolled the local pick and pull with a tape measure and looked at a very broad range of foreign and domestic vehicles. This is a dual 13" shroud/fan assembly from a 2008 Chrysler Sebring Touring with a 2.7l V6 on a spare radiator I have. I haven't found the exact specs on them but they're probably 2500cfm range and pull about 28A together wide open. The plastic piece at the top is part of the shroud assembly and must be removed to get the assembly off the radiator in the donor car. I put it back on before cashing out, thinking it might be useful to tie the upper support solution to the shroud and cover those last 2 rows at the top, which is maybe 1 1/4."

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I'm planning to use a Derale 16795 PWM controller for them. I have EBL but it's really meant to control one fan at on/off points with no soft start. I wanted to update the alternator to 140A right away but Alternator Man is out of the Iceberg rear case parts at the moment. I'm only running a stereo that pulls about 8-10A anyway.

If you want good fans why not go with the 34" 2 core HD radiator and fans?

These pull like 25-30a each

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-620-6...CZ7Q9482E8G&psc=1&refRID=T94EPJ0EBCZ7Q9482E8G