Time for a new radiator?

[GreenSilverado]

Hello everyone,

Still getting to know this truck. Had an intermittent leak that would show up randomly but usually after driving around for a good period of time. It would drip out by the front bumper, driver's side.

I think I found the leak. But I wasn't sure if this is a fitting that can be tightened/fixed or if it is time for a radiator?

Originally I thought it was the cooler lines to the transmission (they need replacing as well) but after wiping it down, driving and sitting overnight, this new line appeared. It looks to me like it is seeping below the hardline fitting.

If I do go with a new one, are there any brands that the gmt400 community particularly likes? I have the 5.7 with tow package so it has the larger radiator.

Thanks in advance. I appreciate it.
-GreenSilverado

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[HotWheelsBurban]

Looks like the drip may also be from the upper radiator hose, above the hard line connector. I would change the clamps to the stainless steel gear drive type, since they have more adjustment than the factory band style. Did this on my 99 Burb and it helped get rid of the seepage. These plastic tank radiators are bad about cracking after 20+ years. That's what my Burb did, and that's when I had the radiator replaced. It had been leaking a little bit every day, but started leaking really badly on a Saturday morning. Sent it to the shop Monday morning. I could have swapped it out myself, but not as quickly as the shop did. Still fine 2 1/2 years later. I'm sure it was an imported replacement type, but being a Suburban it already has the 34" wide radiator.
Like I said, if I were you, I would change the clamps first. Cheaper and quicker than replacing the radiator....might just be a leaky clamp for now.

 

[98 Nitro]

That is where my 98 started leaking about two years ago, it was the original radiator. I got lucky and found a NOS one on ebay to replace mine, but you still can buy the tank part #52469400 if you have a shop nearby that fixes radiators.

 

[96-2D-Hoe]

Mine died a few years ago from the leaky flange. It's the corrosion that causes them to fail and yours is getting that way. Looks like yours has been replaced once already.

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[HotWheelsBurban]

Yes the shop told me they could replace the tank, but it would only be another $100 to do the whole radiator. So since I intend to keep the Burb, I went ahead and had them replace the radiator. I had replaced the clamps with the worm drive ones already, and have since replaced the water pump and both radiator hoses.
Edit: you also need to change the 2 molded bypass hoses when you do the water pump. And definitely replace the clamps on these too. These are a right ******* to get to so best to do it all at once.

 

[96-2D-Hoe]

If you're going to replace the rad it's worth considering replacing the water pump and definitely replacing the lower hose while it's out and there's plenty of room. When I replaced my rad I decided to go with a aftermarket aluminum one and also replaced the fan clutch that was bad anyway, water pump and lower hose. I was just thinking it's time to do my upper hose as it's still the original. Thanks for reminding me.

 

[alpinecrick]

I put this one in my 96, and liked it so much I bought one for my 97 (which I have yet to install). I have around 15-20k on it. It's the heavy duty/towing radiator that is about an inch thicker than the standard OEM radiator but the fit was fine.

Advance should have a coupon somewhere.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-radiator-431334/19920074-P?searchTerm=radiator

 

[454cid]

Keep the factory band clamps. They provide constant tension and are better than worm drive clamps. I would change the hoses and radiator.

 

[GreenSilverado]

Thank you so much for the advice, everyone. I really appreciate it. Usually I am out in my shop working alone and it is a real benefit to be able to double check assumptions.

 

[gearheadE30]

Before you pull the radiator, you might try tightening the nut on that hard line connection as well. It shouldn't be super tight (you don't want to crack the plastic) but I had one that was leaking on a radiator that was only a year or two old and it ended up being that stamped steel nut was loose. Snugged it up and fixed the leak.